possible nock pinch?

Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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Jun 20, 2017
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I have a hoyt rx1 turbo that I had dialed in, I recently waxed the string. today before shooting I slid my nock point down a hair by slightly working back and forth with pliers to get it to just barely touch the top of my d-loop. my first two shots at 50 where pretty good, but I heard a little noise. my third arrow when shot hit probably 15-20 yards before the target, two more additional arrow followed suite. I check to make sure my drop away was working correctly and it appeared it was( rest cord is served in and impossible to move). not knowing what else to try I worked my nock point back to where I started. after this I was hitting a tad high and to the right at 20 and 30 yards. after a few more shots the string "seemed to settle back in" and I was hitting dead center. I'm happy it is shooting better, but doing want to have a failure like this in the field. anybody have any other ideas what could have happened or what I need to check? thanks
 
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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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forgot to mention I have a QAD hdx rest I bought new with the bow
 

Elc1973

FNG
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Dec 27, 2012
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Fairbanks, AK
Had a similar thing happen and my rest cord had stretched a little and my rest didn't drop away. Had to adjust it and back to normal. Something to check
 
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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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2zqsfgg.jpg
 

wapitibob

WKR
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Bend Oregon
In my opinion, If you can move a nock set even with pliers, cut it off and tie it in better. You're using the loop knot as the nock set/point, not what I'd do but it does work. Personally, I'd cut your nock set off and re tie, then move the top of the loop above that nock set, or move the entire loop below the arrow with the nock point above the arrow.
And I never move a nock point, I move the rest. My nock/loop combo is set in relation to my bow hand pressure point and I only move it when testing groups and aiming.
 
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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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I had my bow pressed a couple weeks ago to tweak the loop/peep rotation since it was broke in finally. perfect peep alignment with sight at full draw since. my bow was perfectly tuned, shooting through paper great and softball sized group at 100 yards. I only have the nock point as a reference mark if I ever have loop issues in the field. it is pretty much proven nock points arent needed, it's just a comfort thing. is it even possible from barely moving the nock point it could cause this? hitting 15-20 yards on the ground before the target is substantial. if it's not I could possibly have a rest that works "most of the time."
 
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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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it also seems a little ironic that the only thing I did was eliminate the small space between the point and d-loop and this happened. upon moving it back that tiny bit seems to have corrected it. this one has me really scratching my head.
 

TravisIN

WKR
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Oct 8, 2017
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975
I like tying in nocking points because they are better at staying put compared to just a d loop. Your constantly putting a release on a d loop and it’s always moving a little bit side to side and torquing that it’s more likely to move. Just my experience. As far as your issue, 15-20 yards seems like something very drastic like a rest failure or even a release failure that you may not notice. If you were a little low I’d say look at your center serving. If it’s separating it can cause high/low misses. Dudley talked about this on a podcast recently and it makes total sense and explains a lot of headaches I’ve had over the years.


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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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the only center serving issue I can see is the tiny slip below my d-loop, doesn't seem like much. I'm guessing it's my rest to be honest, but was pretty random and only on 3 shots. any way to test this when it works most of the time?
 

5MilesBack

"DADDY"
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What is going on with all that serving on your cables?

And I would re-time your HDX. It's amazing how much even a small adjustment makes to the geometry of the bow, thereby changing the timing on the rest. I re-time after every tuning adjustment.
 
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Turner

Lil-Rokslider
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I checked the rest and it seems to be timed perfect, not just barely into the 1/2"-1" range like some. that serving is the hoyt factory strings that is to protect with the rollers. I'd like to say my issue was the nock point and just keep rolling with it, but if I'm gonna spend my time and money on hunting trips I'm gonna be pretty upset when I shoot a 30 yard chip shot and it falls 10 yards short on an elk/deer. I want to regain and have confidence in my setup. loved it up until this point.
 

Gumbo

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If you have an arrow hit 15-20 yards short on a 50 yard shot you have a lot more going wrong then a little nock pinch. Nonetheless I would STRONGLY suggest tying in nock points and using some BCY D braid for your loop. Nock points may not be "needed", but they sure are convenient. Maybe your rest didn't come up for a couple shots? I'd ditch the QAD and get a limb driven Hamskea Hybrid Hunter, too much to go wrong on QADs and Ripcords. I've had and seen several break and go bad.
 

Wapiti1

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I second the advice on tied in nock points. Tie them so the d-loop is on the outside of them and there is about one serving wrap of clearance between the nock and the nock points. They are insurance against problems.

As for the rest. Mechanical things break and fail. You pay your money, you take your chances. The QAD is a decent design, but it can fail. The Hamskea or other limbdriver rest can also fail. A broken spring and the rest is pretty worthless. The Whisker Biscuit is the most fool and Murphy proof of the bunch if you can see your way to not using a cool kid arrow rest. Just my 2 cents.

Jeremy
 

jmez

WKR
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Jun 12, 2012
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Simple way to check for nock pinch. Take the FP or broadhead off of an arrow and draw with that arrow. If you are getting nock pinch the arrow will raise up off of the rest.
 
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