Hey roksliders. Went on my first rifle elk hunt this year, but I'm looking to get into archery for next year. I purchased an elite impulse 34 with 70lb draw. My question is what am I looking for in respects to arrows and broadheads? What grain of shafts and size of spines and grain of broadheads. I'm pretty confused on the whole thing! Take it easy on this archery nube!
Arrows for elk
- Thread starter cshore93
- Start date
- Banned
- #2
TurkeyBowMaster
Banned
Something around 10 to 11 grains per inch and at least 125 grain head. Go with the 100 grain brass inserts to get extra wt and durability in the right spot.
- Thread Starter
- #4
27" draw 27.5" arrow
27" draw length 70 draw weight 27.5 shaft.
.300 spine BEA Rampages, cut 27.5, 75 grain brass hits, VPA flanged collar, 3 blazers and an X nock. Finish it off with 100 grain Solids, VPA's , Slick Trick mags, or QAD exodus and you have a kick ass elk set up set up for a short draw archer like yourself. Your finished weight will be about 475 grains.
.300 spine BEA Rampages, cut 27.5, 75 grain brass hits, VPA flanged collar, 3 blazers and an X nock. Finish it off with 100 grain Solids, VPA's , Slick Trick mags, or QAD exodus and you have a kick ass elk set up set up for a short draw archer like yourself. Your finished weight will be about 475 grains.
How much does that collar weigh? I run those shafts cut to 28 with 75 grain HITs, 4 fletch VMAX, 100 gr broadheads, and X nock and my finished arrow is 455. Regardless, that setup works great for me.
About 15 grains
- Banned
- #10
TurkeyBowMaster
Banned
Longer arrows are more stable and don't deflect as easy. It wouldn't hurt to leave yours out to 28.5 or so. I prefer feathers for better flight and penetration
- Thread Starter
- #11
I appreciate that! Do you know how much that would run me $$? Also, do you use these to practice with? Or do you get something else for practice?
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Another simpler build is
.300 BEA Spartans at 27.5", use the standard steel inserts that are 26 grains. Then run a 125 grain head. It's an easier build and they are a really solid mid weight/diameter arrow. What nice is you can use standard inserts with smaller diameter shaft.
.300 BEA Spartans at 27.5", use the standard steel inserts that are 26 grains. Then run a 125 grain head. It's an easier build and they are a really solid mid weight/diameter arrow. What nice is you can use standard inserts with smaller diameter shaft.
mfllood3800
WKR
You are going to find 3 trains of thought here as people answer your question
1). light weight
- some guys like as light an arrow as possible keeping it as fast as possible 320 FPS +
2). Medium weight
- these guys like an arrow to be middle of the ground keeping some good speed but still heavy enough to keep good Kinetic Energy to penetrate consistently 290 - 300 fps
3). Heavey arrows
- this group likes a heavy and impacting set up capable of driving thru concrete- 280 FPS
There are way too many variables to give you the answer you want
First you must decide if you are #1,2 or 3.
All 3 will kill elk
Is one better than another- depends who you ask.
I would stick some where around the middle
There all sorts of terms you will be hearing a lot of like... FOC (front of center), its effect is a lot like CG (center of gravity) on an airplane
Here is a safe place to start:
I would try to get a Carbon arrow that weighs about 10- 11.0 grains per inch and has a straightness of .001 and a spine of 300-350
like the black eagle arrows
- have the shop cut and fletch them for you and install the insert
Find a broad head that is legal in your area (either mechanical or fixed) and decide on weight. Mechanical blades are easier to tune and offer more forgiveness in shooter form issues
Id get the 125 gr NAP if you can legally shoot these.
Decide on your vanes, I use blazer 2" and I'd install 3 of these
The arrow will probably come with a nock so that is taken care of for you
You will come out somewhere around 450 - 475 grains I would imagine which is close to the middle of the road.
now with that said:
I personally shoot a 390 gr set up and most on here don't care for that light of a set up, but I shoot over 330 FPS, another thing most don't care for. I also shoot a fixed broadhead, which is my 3rd strike for most on here.
All 3 of these can be tuning nightmares for consistent shooting.
I didn't direct you away from my set up cause of the others negative opinion of my set up here, I did it cause you as a new shooter will be better paired with a more forgiving type set up.
Find a good bow shop and not just a buddy who has been shooting for the last 2 1/2 years and knows everything
1). light weight
- some guys like as light an arrow as possible keeping it as fast as possible 320 FPS +
2). Medium weight
- these guys like an arrow to be middle of the ground keeping some good speed but still heavy enough to keep good Kinetic Energy to penetrate consistently 290 - 300 fps
3). Heavey arrows
- this group likes a heavy and impacting set up capable of driving thru concrete- 280 FPS
There are way too many variables to give you the answer you want
First you must decide if you are #1,2 or 3.
All 3 will kill elk
Is one better than another- depends who you ask.
I would stick some where around the middle
There all sorts of terms you will be hearing a lot of like... FOC (front of center), its effect is a lot like CG (center of gravity) on an airplane
Here is a safe place to start:
I would try to get a Carbon arrow that weighs about 10- 11.0 grains per inch and has a straightness of .001 and a spine of 300-350
like the black eagle arrows
- have the shop cut and fletch them for you and install the insert
Find a broad head that is legal in your area (either mechanical or fixed) and decide on weight. Mechanical blades are easier to tune and offer more forgiveness in shooter form issues
Id get the 125 gr NAP if you can legally shoot these.
Decide on your vanes, I use blazer 2" and I'd install 3 of these
The arrow will probably come with a nock so that is taken care of for you
You will come out somewhere around 450 - 475 grains I would imagine which is close to the middle of the road.
now with that said:
I personally shoot a 390 gr set up and most on here don't care for that light of a set up, but I shoot over 330 FPS, another thing most don't care for. I also shoot a fixed broadhead, which is my 3rd strike for most on here.
All 3 of these can be tuning nightmares for consistent shooting.
I didn't direct you away from my set up cause of the others negative opinion of my set up here, I did it cause you as a new shooter will be better paired with a more forgiving type set up.
Find a good bow shop and not just a buddy who has been shooting for the last 2 1/2 years and knows everything
mfllood3800
WKR
You will pay about $80-$90 a half dozen for good hunting shafts.
Most shops don't charge too much for cutting and fletching these for you- let them do it.
Most shops don't charge too much for cutting and fletching these for you- let them do it.
- Banned
- #16
TurkeyBowMaster
Banned
Takes a while to get the hang of sharpening fixed solid heads. There are some really good fixed replacement blade heads. You should go with them. Should you go with a mechanical then you would need to go with an arrow on the heavier side...something that would give you over 500 grain total arrow wt.
Heavier is definitely better for most shots. With todays high performance bows, the trajectory difference between light and heavy is barely noticeable, but the gains in penetration with a heavier setup will allow for different angle shots with less risk.
Heavier is definitely better for most shots. With todays high performance bows, the trajectory difference between light and heavy is barely noticeable, but the gains in penetration with a heavier setup will allow for different angle shots with less risk.
mfllood3800
WKR
Yea they can be for sure, but I use Montec broad heads with non removable blades and it is easy to just run them down the stone 2 or 3 times while remembering where you started. I mark them all with a marker so I can see where they have been honed.
A more forward FOC and correct spine and enough fletching and mechanicals do all help the tuning and forgiveness more. For him being a newbie these would help him get tighter groups faster.
The Black eagle arrows have a better spine consistency, and mechanicals would give him more a field tip group.
The 125 Gr tip would aid in the more friendly FOC.
I agree the mechanicals used to be a problem with slower bows and improper technology, but todays stuff is so much better than even 3 yrs ago. I used mechanicals one time and hated them. I have switched to fixed, BUT am looking at trying the NAP mechanicals. My bows all carry the arrow well over 330 FPS so they will open as long as there isn't a mechanical flaw in that broad head.
Don't know what his FPS is but at 70 lbs and his draw length he should be well within range.
A more forward FOC and correct spine and enough fletching and mechanicals do all help the tuning and forgiveness more. For him being a newbie these would help him get tighter groups faster.
The Black eagle arrows have a better spine consistency, and mechanicals would give him more a field tip group.
The 125 Gr tip would aid in the more friendly FOC.
I agree the mechanicals used to be a problem with slower bows and improper technology, but todays stuff is so much better than even 3 yrs ago. I used mechanicals one time and hated them. I have switched to fixed, BUT am looking at trying the NAP mechanicals. My bows all carry the arrow well over 330 FPS so they will open as long as there isn't a mechanical flaw in that broad head.
Don't know what his FPS is but at 70 lbs and his draw length he should be well within range.
If you are serious I would buy a saw for about $200 bucks (or less), G5 arrow squaring device ($40 or so), Pine Ridge arrow spinner ($20 or so) and a fletching jig (varies) and build your own. You can do a way better job than most shops will in my experience and you can experiment. BE shafts run about $130/doz for rampages, $20 for Easton HIT inserts, $10 for a dozen Xnocks, and fletches are about $10/100. Definitely practice with the same arrows so your pin gaps/tapes are the same. Also, different arrows brands/models will fly slightly differently because of differences in weight, spine, and FOC.
mfllood3800
WKR
justin davis
WKR
Get some Goldtip platinum Pierce shafts. They are awesome arrows
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