Hoyt Defiant Turbo trouble

[1woolie89]

Hey guys hoping for insight here. I have a 2016 Hoyt Defiant Turbo #3 cams 60# and 29 1/2 draw and I have been shooting it for a few months now and still have not gotten over the "jumpy" feel of the bow or the hump in the draw cycle. Is there any remedy for this? Or is this what I got my self Into I been thinking of trading it or even selling it to get a Non Turbo 34. It's a great bow, fast and accurate but a little much for me right now. I appriacte any and all feedback -Will

 

[Jeff Martin]

I hate to say it, but that now is going to feel like that. It is a speed bow. You can change cable strand count to change valley but very few guys out there know how to do this properly. You can do it with string and cable changes but if you hate it that much, get a new bow.


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[d3ntalbliss]

Hey guys hoping for insight here. I have a 2016 Hoyt Defiant Turbo #3 cams 60# and 29 1/2 draw and I have been shooting it for a few months now and still have not gotten over the "jumpy" feel of the bow or the hump in the draw cycle. Is there any remedy for this? Or is this what I got my self Into I been thinking of trading it or even selling it to get a Non Turbo 34. It's a great bow, fast and accurate but a little much for me right now. I appriacte any and all feedback -Will

When you say jumpy are you referring to it wanting to pull you out of your draw (non forgiving valley) ot jumping in hand when you shoot?

I'm shooting the turbo and the draw cycle is aggressive with a very narrow valley. Make sure you keep back tension to keep it from trying to jump out of your full draw position.

You may be better off to shoot some bows and find one you like better in regards to feel of draw cycle.

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[Brendan]

I don't notice any hump in the draw cycle. I shot it side by side with a CD34 for several months, and it was a little stiffer, but in my mind that's not an issue - really a subjective thing though. But, if you want an easier draw cycle - you need a different bow.

Regarding the jumpiness. This is a bow that you absolutely need to maintain a firm pull into the wall. No way you'll be able to just relax back there like more forgiving bows with a huge valley and letoff. With that said - First thing I'd recommend is to make sure that your draw length is not too long. Made a world of difference to me to shorten up my draw and make sure that the string was just touching the tip of my nose, that I wasn't stretched out or leaning back at all.

At the end of the day though - if it doesn't match up to your style and what you're looking for, I'd go shoot and try other bows.

Personally, after I got used to it - I sold a CD34 and decided to stick with the Turbo.

 

[1woolie89]

Yes that's exactly how to explain it! It feels like it's ripping away and messing with my form, I feel panic from it and it effects my execution. I know I wish I had shot more before settling. Thank you sir.

 

[225nontypical]

First make sure it's tuned correctly. It shouldn't try to rip out of your hand but there is no room to relax and creep. You can get after market draw stops to give you a little more Valley with more let off

 

[1woolie89]

I don't notice any hump in the draw cycle. I shot it side by side with a CD34 for several months, and it was a little stiffer, but in my mind that's not an issue - really a subjective thing though. But, if you want an easier draw cycle - you need a different bow.

Regarding the jumpiness. This is a bow that you absolutely need to maintain a firm pull into the wall. No way you'll be able to just relax back there like more forgiving bows with a huge valley and letoff. With that said - First thing I'd recommend is to make sure that your draw length is not too long. Made a world of difference to me to shorten up my draw and make sure that the string was just touching the tip of my nose, that I wasn't stretched out or leaning back at all.

At the end of the day though - if it doesn't match up to your style and what you're looking for, I'd go shoot and try other bows.

Personally, after I got used to it - I sold a CD34 and decided to stick with the Turbo.

I will have to try the draw length adjustment, I do relax in my shot. I calm my self and focus on my target. Thank you

 

[Brendan]

The let off is 75% for the Turbo, vs. 80% for the 30 and 34 - which means a higher holding weight for the same draw weight - you have to hold back an additional 3 lbs over an 80% bow at your draw weight, an additional 6 lbs over an 85% bow - which can take some getting used to. If you don't maintain a constant pull or a constant back tension, and relaxing to you means not doing that - it will want to roll over on you and try to fire.

With that said - It can actually be very good for your form and make you a better technical archer to learn to pull through the shot using back tension, but again, it takes some getting used to.

 

[1woolie89]

I don't notice any hump in the draw cycle. I shot it side by side with a CD34 for several months, and it was a little stiffer, but in my mind that's not an issue - really a subjective thing though. But, if you want an easier draw cycle - you need a different bow.

Regarding the jumpiness. This is a bow that you absolutely need to maintain a firm pull into the wall. No way you'll be able to just relax back there like more forgiving bows with a huge valley and letoff. With that said - First thing I'd recommend is to make sure that your draw length is not too long. Made a world of difference to me to shorten up my draw and make sure that the string was just touching the tip of my nose, that I wasn't stretched out or leaning back at all.

At the end of the day though - if it doesn't match up to your style and what you're looking for, I'd go shoot and try other bows.

Personally, after I got used to it - I sold a CD34 and decided to stick with the Turbo.

How much of a draw length did you change if I may ask? Did it effect your bows Tune?

 

[Brendan]

Personally - I make sure the string comes just barely to the tip of my nose, with my bow arm straight, without bending my head to the string. Not past there, or further back on the nose, or deeper into the cheek or face. I don't think I realized it before - but I was coming maybe a half inch past that. Good video that goes over proper form here and where the string should lie:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

I also try to keep my release / D-Loop as short as possible as it's less strain on my shoulder the further forward I can reliably anchor, which helps being able to pull through the shot. I personally have had good luck switching to a thumb release this year, I think partially because my hand anchors further forward (That may just be me - I've got a pretty f**ed up right shoulder)

If a change in draw length causes you to torque the bow less or more or differently - then it could need some tweaking.

 

[1woolie89]

Personally - I make sure the string comes just barely to the tip of my nose, with my bow arm straight, without bending my head to the string. Not past there, or further back on the nose, or deeper into the cheek or face. I don't think I realized it before - but I was coming maybe a half inch past that. Good video that goes over proper form here and where the string should lie:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

I also try to keep my release / D-Loop as short as possible as it's less strain on my shoulder the further forward I can reliably anchor, which helps being able to pull through the shot. I personally have had good luck switching to a thumb release this year, I think partially because my hand anchors further forward (That may just be me - I've got a pretty f**ed up right shoulder)

If a change in draw length causes you to torque the bow less or more or differently - then it could need some tweaking.

Awesome thank you! I also have switched to a Spot Hogg wipper snapper, I will have to take pictures of my self at full draw to check. I appriacte the info and I also have a jacked right shoulder, rolled my ATV in Barstow CA at 60 mph >.<

 

[1woolie89]

Personally - I make sure the string comes just barely to the tip of my nose, with my bow arm straight, without bending my head to the string. Not past there, or further back on the nose, or deeper into the cheek or face. I don't think I realized it before - but I was coming maybe a half inch past that. Good video that goes over proper form here and where the string should lie:

Proper Draw Length with John Dudley of Nock On - YouTube

I also try to keep my release / D-Loop as short as possible as it's less strain on my shoulder the further forward I can reliably anchor, which helps being able to pull through the shot. I personally have had good luck switching to a thumb release this year, I think partially because my hand anchors further forward (That may just be me - I've got a pretty f**ed up right shoulder)

If a change in draw length causes you to torque the bow less or more or differently - then it could need some tweaking.

Doing the Method John shows it's measuring out that I should be at a 30 inch draw. Now would I still want to shorten it or would increasing my draw that half inch make the difference I'm Looking for?

 

[Brendan]

I would not pay attention to the method of measuring DL as much as his instruction on proper form and the result. His method should get you close, but you may need to make tweaks from that point.

While at full draw with proper form - you should look like he does with the string right at the tip of your nose, proper "T" body form, etc. You may or may not need to adjust draw length to achieve that.

People are rarely too short, but are often too long.

 

[Neverenoughhntn]

I know I’m a little late on this one... has anyone tried rolling back the DL to the next lowest setting, while leaving the stops in place? (Say 28.5” draw, so you’re in the “B” slot.... leave the cable stops set to “B”, and roll the DL back to “A”). It’s been mentioned on AT a couple times. It made a huge difference in the valley on my DT, and am surprised it hasn’t been mentioned.... maybe there’s something seriously wrong by doing this that I am overlooking?

 

[TBarron]

For me the turbo is all about form. Good back tension with my elbow pushing back like I’m going to put my bow through a wall behind me. Heavy emphasis on back tension. When I don’t use good form the turbo punishes me by wanting to jump out. Really keeps me accountable to good form.


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[Blizzy]

I know I’m a little late on this one... has anyone tried rolling back the DL to the next lowest setting, while leaving the stops in place? (Say 28.5” draw, so you’re in the “B” slot.... leave the cable stops set to “B”, and roll the DL back to “A”). It’s been mentioned on AT a couple times. It made a huge difference in the valley on my DT, and am surprised it hasn’t been mentioned.... maybe there’s something seriously wrong by doing this that I am overlooking?

I've heard tried this and it definitely eliminated ALL jumpiness, but I don't actually know what harm can come if any??