Bareshaft rookie needs to know what this means?

[crterra]

So after reading recently here on Rokslide about shooting bare shafts for identifying tuning or form opportunities, I decided to give it a try. This is a picture of my third group shot from 20 yards. The first two groups looked exactly the same. Bare shaft wide left. Even though my groups are this tight back to 50 and 60 yards, should I worry much about this? Of course if it means I can be better, then I'm all ears.
Hoyt Alpha Max at 70 lbs
450 grain, 340 spine CE Mayhem
14% FOC
Whisker Biscuit Rest

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[dreamingbig]

What do your broadheads do? This is a good indication your broadheads might shoot left.


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[Dameon]

Based on the picture, it looks like the bare shaft is impacting nock level and to the left about a foot to the left of your fletched arrows. So here are some things you can do:

If you have a press and are happy with your rest position and want to try yoke tuning:
1) Put bow in press and add 1 full twist to the right yoke and take out 1 one full twist to the left yoke. That should keep you vertical nock travel the same but shift your bare shaft right towards your fletched arrows.
2) Repeat shooting a 3 arrow group and 1 bare shaft as before, but use a target that is chest high so that your fletched arrows hit nock level.
3) If the bare shaft is still hitting a little left of fletched, try repeating step one with only a half twist.
4) Repeat steps 1 and 2 till your bare shaft groups with your fletched arrows.

If you want to move your rest and yoke tune:
1) Move your rest right 1/32.
2) Add 1/2 twist to right yoke and remove 1/2 twist from left yoke.
3) Shoot bare shafts and fletched arrows at chest high target.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary.

Using rest only:
Move rest 1/16 to the right.

If you find that your bare shaft hits high and to the left of your fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to right yoke only. If you find your arrows hits high, to right of fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to left yoke only. If you find that your bare shaft is a few inches high of your fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to the buss cable (cable with the Y) OR add 1/2 to 1 twist to each yoke OR take out 1/2 to 1 twist from control cable (Adding equal twists to each yoke is best for fine tuning).

If you find that your bare shaft directly below your fletched arrows for any reason, you need to either take twists out of the yokes or buss cable OR add twists to the control cable. I prefer adding twists to the control cable since a little extra draw weight is nice. If not interested in adding weight or need to shorten draw length a little, then take twists out of the bottom of the buss cable or yokes depending on which side has the most available twists.

I should add that I always set my center shot at 13/16 from the bare riser. My nock is set level and the arrow running through the berger holes. I yoke tune from there until I get perfect bare shaft flight. When done, my broadheads hit with my field points and bare shafts.

 

[Tony Trietch]

This is very close to exactly what I would say, I would also add to recheck your cams for sync after adding or taking out twists in the buss.

Based on the picture, it looks like the bare shaft is impacting nock level and to the left about a foot to the left of your fletched arrows. So here are some things you can do:

If you have a press and are happy with your rest position and want to try yoke tuning:
1) Put bow in press and add 1 full twist to the right yoke and take out 1 one full twist to the left yoke. That should keep you vertical nock travel the same but shift your bare shaft right towards your fletched arrows.
2) Repeat shooting a 3 arrow group and 1 bare shaft as before, but use a target that is chest high so that your fletched arrows hit nock level.
3) If the bare shaft is still hitting a little left of fletched, try repeating step one with only a half twist.
4) Repeat steps 1 and 2 till your bare shaft groups with your fletched arrows.

If you want to move your rest and yoke tune:
1) Move your rest right 1/32.
2) Add 1/2 twist to right yoke and remove 1/2 twist from left yoke.
3) Shoot bare shafts and fletched arrows at chest high target.
4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary.

Using rest only:
Move rest 1/16 to the right.

If you find that your bare shaft hits high and to the left of your fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to right yoke only. If you find your arrows hits high, to right of fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to left yoke only. If you find that your bare shaft is a few inches high of your fletched arrows with nock low, add 1/2 to 1 twist to the buss cable (cable with the Y) OR add 1/2 to 1 twist to each yoke OR take out 1/2 to 1 twist from control cable (Adding equal twists to each yoke is best for fine tuning).

If you find that your bare shaft directly below your fletched arrows for any reason, you need to either take twists out of the yokes or buss cable OR add twists to the control cable. I prefer taking twists out of the control cable if there are enough twists to take out. If not, then take them out of the bottom of the buss cable or yokes depending on which side has the most available twists.

I should add that I always set my center shot at 13/16 from the bare riser. My nock is set level and the arrow running through the berger holes. I yoke tune from there until I get perfect bare shaft flight. When done, my broadheads hit with my field points and bare shafts.

 

[Beendare]

Tuning is often under rated by new archers.

Here is what is going on;
the fact that you shoot decent groups at 50 yds means you have decent form...that is; you are doing the same thing repeatedly. That does NOT mean your arrow is flying perfectly out of you bow....it just means you are consistent. The bareshaft tells you the arrow is NOT flying well...and some tuning is req. There are many ways to skin a cat on tuning to get the same result.

Personally, I prefer to shoot BH's and FP's at distance and tune to bring them together...only using bareshaft in my stickbows. But bareshaft is a good tuning technique..........its just another method to get to the same place.

Typically what guys like you find when they tune their bow; your good groups get better., your bow is a little bit quieter/smoother......and your BH's fly exactly like your FP's.

 

[Dameon]

I fixed a mistake I found in my notes above regarding bareshaft hitting low. Very rarely do I run into this case, but for future readers that need a reference on bareshaft tuning, what I wrote and edited above should cover most scenarios.


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[crterra]

I've been shooting for over 20 years with good results. Have never spent much time on learning about tuning. This information is invaluable to shooting tighter groups. My broad heads shoot good, but not as consistent as the field points. I've always been told and have failed to research any further until recently that broad heads always fly different than field points, thus adjusting sights is required. Shooting these groups with a bare shaft is definitely an eye opener. Another reason why I've become addicted to Rokslide. Thanks gentlemen

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[archer wapiti]

Tuning is often under rated by new archers.


Personally, I prefer to shoot BH's and FP's at distance and tune to bring them together...only using bareshaft in my stickbows. But bareshaft is a good tuning technique..........its just another method to get to the same place.

This makes the most sense to me, so that's what I do as well. I've not tried many of the other techniques out there (some paper tuning years ago), but it seems to me that if your broadheads and field points are hitting together, that's what matters most for the hunter.