Broadhead help

[mtnhntr]

OK so I'm getting ready for a big horn hunt and had shot Slick Tricks out of 40 yards and thought we were all good. I'm now 20 days out from my hunt and was stretching shooting with my broadheads out to 50-70 and these heads make a literal u-turn and I can't tune it out. I'm looking for suggestions on another reliable broadhead for bighorns.... help!

 

[OR Archer]

I would look at the tune of the bow before I go blaming the broadhead. Slick Tricks fly really well out of a tuned bow.

What kind of bow are you shooting? Specs? Arrows? Was the bow tuned to those arrows? Are the broadheads spinning true with no wobble?

 

[mtnhntr]

I would look at the tune of the bow before I go blaming the broadhead. Slick Tricks fly really well out of a tuned bow.

What kind of bow are you shooting? Specs? Arrows? Was the bow tuned to those arrows? Are the broadheads spinning true with no wobble?

Mathews NoCam 70# 29.5" FMJ 300 125gr tips 245fps had the top hat spacers adjusted so I'm tuned super well to these arrows. Broadheads were spinning true on brand new arrows. I watched the first arrow completely bank at 50 yards and thought it was me. Shot again and it did the same thing. Literally hit 40 yards and banked at like a 30* angle. Grabbed a Spitfire and it hit right where my field point did. Up to 50 the Slick Trick shot spot on. Other than prepping for this trip I've never shot them before.

 

[OR Archer]

no fletch contact?

 

[mtnhntr]

no fletch contact?

None

 

[OR Archer]

well if you arent confident in those heads Id try some QAD Exodus or Magnus Snuffer SS in 125gr.

 

[mtnhntr]

My dad and I were talking about Snuffers - I have some Rotthhaar Snuffers (pre-Magnus) in 125. But I was curious as to anyone's thoughts on expendables...

 

[Nick Muche]

I'd screw on a hypodermic and go hunting...

 

[les welch]

OK so I'm getting ready for a big horn hunt and had shot Slick Tricks out of 40 yards and thought we were all good. I'm now 20 days out from my hunt and was stretching shooting with my broadheads out to 50-70 and these heads make a literal u-turn and I can't tune it out. I'm looking for suggestions on another reliable broadhead for bighorns.... help!

Click the link:

Iron Will Outfitters - High Quality Broadheads for Bow Hunting

I've tested these heads for 6 months. They fly great, they are tougher than anything I've ever seen by a long shot. Stellar warranty, and great guys. You won't be disappointed.

715-579-3345 Call me if you have questions.

Also check this thread if you want more insight....

http://www.rokslide.com/forums/archery/69823-iron-outfitters-broadheads.html

 

[Btaylor]

Why not shoot the spitfire that goes where it is supposed too?

 

[225nontypical]

Exodus or iron will would be my pick! I have done a ton of testing in everything from log range to penetration and durability. Those 2 are in my opinion 2 of the best. There are a few others but those are the 2 I would pick to hunt with.

 

[mtnhntr]

Why not shoot the spitfire that goes where it is supposed too?

I had them in a box because I'd had a couple failures with them when they first came out and just chalked them up to a good idea that didn't work well for me. That said - I guess I am just a little gun-shy of that head and was looking for others input as a sounding board. If I got some good feedback from the group on Spitfires I'd probably give them another go...I tend to like to overbuild, so if there was something better I'd like to feel it out before I sink $150 in just one type of head.

 

[mlob1one]

can you use mechanicals?
Look at NAP kill zones. I'm shooting some from my Matthews and they love'em.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[Btaylor]

I had them in a box because I'd had a couple failures with them when they first came out and just chalked them up to a good idea that didn't work well for me. That said - I guess I am just a little gun-shy of that head and was looking for others input as a sounding board. If I got some good feedback from the group on Spitfires I'd probably give them another go...I tend to like to overbuild, so if there was something better I'd like to feel it out before I sink $150 in just one type of head.

Gotcha. I am a fan of nap heads esp the thunderhead and spitfire. No failures with thre spitfire on approx 40 deer and consistently great blood trails. I understand the over built comment as I lean that direction a lot of times too. Other than the spitfire, if I was going to shoot a mechanical it would be a grim reaper. Lots of good heads out there and that can be a problem when you are considering a change. Only thing that jumps out to me about your scenario is that it is for sheep. That's not an any time you want to go kind of hunt like whitetails so I would pick a head that I had absolute confidence in, not a new head I wanted to try out.

 

[5MilesBack]

If I got some good feedback from the group on Spitfires I'd probably give them another go...I tend to like to overbuild, so if there was something better I'd like to feel it out before I sink $150 in just one type of head.

$150? You can generally find them on sale for $20-25 for a 3 pack. I don't think I've ever bought more than a single pack of BH's at any given time.

But.......back to your problem. An arrow is not going to fly perfectly fine to a set yardage and then suddenly veer off course. If there's a problem with the setup, it's going to compound the problem linearly as it flies. For instance.......the ST's have a 4th blade, so compared to a 3-blade or mechanical they might have more drag and therefore drop more than the other heads. If the arrows wobble they won't fly perfectly to 50 and then have it suddenly affect the arrows, it will affect them from the start. It may not be quite as noticeable closer up, but it will still be there.

I shot FMJ 300's for 3 weeks before they developed a wobble and wouldn't spin true anymore. The group size was double that of what they started at. But if they still spin true, I'd just start over with tuning and jump right to 60 yards for that. I start all my tuning at 60 yards.

You can throw a mechanical on your arrows, but if they still are out of tune that won't help much.......especially with penetration.

 

[mtnhntr]

$150? You can generally find them on sale for $20-25 for a 3 pack. I don't think I've ever bought more than a single pack of BH's at any given time.

But.......back to your problem. An arrow is not going to fly perfectly fine to a set yardage and then suddenly veer off course. If there's a problem with the setup, it's going to compound the problem linearly as it flies. For instance.......the ST's have a 4th blade, so compared to a 3-blade or mechanical they might have more drag and therefore drop more than the other heads. If the arrows wobble they won't fly perfectly to 50 and then have it suddenly affect the arrows, it will affect them from the start. It may not be quite as noticeable closer up, but it will still be there.

I shot FMJ 300's for 3 weeks before they developed a wobble and wouldn't spin true anymore. The group size was double that of what they started at. But if they still spin true, I'd just start over with tuning and jump right to 60 yards for that. I start all my tuning at 60 yards.

You can throw a mechanical on your arrows, but if they still are out of tune that won't help much.......especially with penetration.

Well, I don't really have the luxury of waiting for sales - I leave in less than 2 weeks for my hunt and I'd like to have a dozen. Believe me if I had the time I'd wait.

On to the tuning. I've shot for over 25 years, and never see anything quite like I did yesterday. I was getting great arrow flight and they literally banked. The first time I thought I jacked something up - so I went in and spin tested the rest of my practice arrows with BHs and they spun true. Went back out, and shot back 20-30-40 all flew very well and were spot on. Got back to 50 and again the hard bank right - right on vertically. Totally bewildering....

 

[MtnHunter]

The Tanto Tip and low profile on our heads is engineered to prevent planing at long distances, so you can count on them to fly true when you're really poking it out there. We found on our timberline hunts that the 20-35 yard shots are few and far between, so long distance accuracy was a foundational purpose for engineering the heads. Good luck on your bighorn hunt this year - sounds like it will be an amazing experience!!!

 

[Beendare]

Yeah, you have poor arrow flight.....I'm actually surprised there are guys recommending another head; Mech, fixed, whatever.... you will still have poor arrow flight. My guess is you are only noticing the poor arrow flight at the longer ranges....arrows that are flying well don't take right turns.

Tuning is the solution. Shoot FP's and BH's for group at 30 or 40 yds. Note the size of each group [if not the same size or location, you have a problem]. If they don't shoot to the same POI chase the FP group with your rest in very tiny increments.

 

[Tony Trietch]

As 5Miles and Beendare said, you have a tuning issue.
Part of the tuning issue may be you as well. Some days we torque the bow more than others. All it takes is a funky grip on the riser and you could be twisting the bow enough to throw them off at distance. Try again today and see if it's still the same.

Another possible thing is cross wind. Are you shooting in an area that the wind is blocked for the 40 and under shots but exposed for the longer 40+ shots?

If you are determined to get new heads, I would suggest the Iron Will Outfitters. They are made to very tight tolerances and fly incredibly well at long distance.

I think you would be best served by addressing the bow first though. Arrow flight is priority one.

 

[Brendan]

Agree with above - tuning issue of some sort unless there's something wrong with the head(s) or arrow. There is no guarantee different heads will help you, but some do fly better than others. Mechanicals will fly better than fixed blades because they don't plane as easily, and some fixed blades are better than others.