Arrow selection questions from a novice

[brossman]

Hi guys this will be my first season bow hunting. I am new to the archery world and after wrapping my head around the many options out there for bow setups I settled into a Hoyt Pro Defiant and have become quite confident in my shooting ability after months of practice.

Now my question is what arrow spine, insert and broad head weight would you guys recommend for mule deer and elk. Draw weight is currently 60 lbs with a length of 29".

Also since I am a diy type of guy what would you recommend cutting these arrows to, 28.25?

Thanks guys!


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[Hokkaido]

Just go to a bow shop have them set you up, too much wasting time on here with the endless various answers you're gonna get. You're basic setup for deer and elk at #60 will be a 340 arrow probably an inch shorter than your DL but they will measure you up right at the shop. You want your BH just shy of the rest and a lot of times that is an inch shorter than your draw, but no way to know for sure until they put that marked arrow on you're rest and have you draw it back.

You'll want your total arrow weight around 430gr or so and that is what your 28in 340 will come out at with 100gr head, but you can go with 125gr head, it doesn't matter much. 25 grains weighs the same as 25 postage stamps, the kind you used to lick. Foc will be slightly better but not enough to worry about, our good either way. Life will be easier if you can keep your speed above 260-270fps... should be a sweet little setup.

 

[nito900rr]

Hi guys this will be my first season bow hunting. I am new to the archery world and after wrapping my head around the many options out there for bow setups I settled into a Hoyt Pro Defiant and have become quite confident in my shooting ability after months of practice.

Now my question is what arrow spine, insert and broad head weight would you guys recommend for mule deer and elk. Draw weight is currently 60 lbs with a length of 29".

Also since I am a diy type of guy what would you recommend cutting these arrows to, 28.25?

Thanks guys!


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Hokkaido is right. First season bow hunting have a good bow shop set you up. Then you have a good baseline to start from when season is over you can play around with spine, fletch, helical and all that good stuff.

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[Idaho Brad]

Good morning,
What are the arrows you are currently shooting? If they shoot good, you already have the correct spine or are very close to. Unless you are shooting a super lightweight target arrow (which I'm assuming you are not) put your BH's on them and see how they fly. If they fly good, shoot them, if for some reason they don't, go to the pro shop and get sorted out.

 

[brossman]

Good morning,
What are the arrows you are currently shooting? If they shoot good, you already have the correct spine or are very close to. Unless you are shooting a super lightweight target arrow (which I'm assuming you are not) put your BH's on them and see how they fly. If they fly good, shoot them, if for some reason they don't, go to the pro shop and get sorted out.

The shop I bought my bow from set me up with 300 5MM FMJs. They set them up for a 30" draw length (their measurement). After numerous issues with the initial setup of the bow I went to a a different shop (90 minutes away) got some coaching and they measured me at a 29" draw which was a game changer for me. So the arrows I have would have to have the inserts pulled and shortened. Plus I've put them through the ringer this summer.

I think I will follow your guys' advice and have the shop make some up and save the projects for the off season.


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[cooperjd]

where do your current arrows sit in relationship to your bow shelf/rest?

I am of the opinion to keep my broadhead past my shelf so i do not accidentally raise a finger and slice it with a broadhead, or cut a glove upon shooting and watching the arrow go wonky. i dont raise my fingers while shooting, but sometimes crap happens in the heat of the moment. if your current arrows are shooting well, there is no reason to change really. losing one inch or so from the end of the arrow will not make any difference anyway. I shot the same few arrows for years at targets, through animals, back to targets, back to animals, etc... with no issues. most of the 3d and indoor tournaments i shot were with blood-stained vanes on my arrows. as long as they are straight you should be fine.

 

[Hokkaido]

Good on ya for going to a different shop, those are about the most expensive arrows out there and definitely not for newbies lol. I would guess you've lost a few and a couple more are bent. You don't have to spend that much money again on your next dozen..I guess that's why you're looking to buy some pre-cut online? 300 is a bit too much honestly, maybe if was a dedicated elk arrow. 340 is plenty enough and versatile, 400 might not be enough with heavier BHs.

You can measure yourself, no need to go to a shop 90 min away if you have buddy around who can operate a sharpie. Have your pal stand on the side while you carefully draw, with your release on. Once your anchored have him/her mark the arrow right at the front edge of the riser. Be sure you explain it well before you draw back lol I've been there. If you come up with an odd number, round up to full inch or half inch.

Most any hunting arrow will be more than enough to do the job. Pick one you like. For me it's Easton axis 9.5gpi, they don't break as easy as others but there are lots of other cheaper, sufficient, options. You could pick one with less gpi and go with a heavier BH for more FOC, all up to you. I like the HIT inserts, a lot of guys don't. Whatever. Pick the system you like but you don't need to be going over 430gr total weight. Let us know what you end up with.

 

[brossman]

Good on ya for going to a different shop, those are about the most expensive arrows out there and definitely not for newbies lol. I would guess you've lost a few and a couple more are bent. You don't have to spend that much money again on your next dozen..I guess that's why you're looking to buy some pre-cut online? 300 is a bit too much honestly, maybe if was a dedicated elk arrow. 340 is plenty enough and versatile, 400 might not be enough with heavier BHs.

You can measure yourself, no need to go to a shop 90 min away if you have buddy around who can operate a sharpie. Have your pal stand on the side while you carefully draw, with your release on. Once your anchored have him/her mark the arrow right at the front edge of the riser. Be sure you explain it well before you draw back lol I've been there. If you come up with an odd number, round up to full inch or half inch.

Most any hunting arrow will be more than enough to do the job. Pick one you like. For me it's Easton axis 9.5gpi, they don't break as easy as others but there are lots of other cheaper, sufficient, options. You could pick one with less gpi and go with a heavier BH for more FOC, all up to you. I like the HIT inserts, a lot of guys don't. Whatever. Pick the system you like but you don't need to be going over 430gr total weight. Let us know what you end up with.

Cool thanks for the advice, my buddy is coming over in a few I will have him mark one for me. I was looking at the Easton Axis or the black eagle carnivore. I don't think either will do me wrong. For broadhead I am looking at either the wac'em or the grave digger cut on contacts. Both are supposed to fly well with the hybrid grave diggers being a bit more forgiving.

I think for now I will save the FMJs for next season if I increase my draw weight to the 65-70 area.


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