New strings and out of specs

chindits

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After bow season ended I got a new set of strings and cables from the local shop. In my mind I was overdue as my Chill X had the original strings from 2014 and though not a high volume shooter because of my shoulder, I still shoot year round. Before I brought the bow in I noted my ATA was a 1/4 inch longer than specs. I assumed the new strings and cables would bring it back to a 35 ata and 7 bh.

However, with the new strings on I found that the ATA is 35 1/4 and a BH close to 6 3/4. I measure ATA from center of axle bolt to center of axle bolt. Is this how ATA is measured? If so, should this 1/4 inch out of spec be addressed with the shop? Or should I not be concerned with such things and just go fling arrows.
 

bowhnt

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Not being exactly in spec doesn't necessarily mean it's not tuned. Those numbers are a starting point. When new strings are installed and a bow is tuned the strings are twisted or untwisted to bring that exact bow into tune. If it shoots don't worry about the numbers being exact. A lot of guys get hung up on that. Just remember those numbers are a starting point.


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OR Archer

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My concern with that is that the Bow is probably not making poundage. Like mentioned above those numbers are just starting points but it should be closer than that. It’s an easy fix. Talk to your shop an express your concerns and just have them recheck everything.
 
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chindits

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Okay thanks. I kind of lost a little confidence when I saw they cut my arrow rest release cord from my old cable and footballed it to the new cable as now it isn't long enough to get it below the middle servings on the new cables. I guess I might be getting too judgmental in my old age.
 
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chindits

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OR I just saw your post after I put up my last one. On that note, I did find that I had to readjust my pins and my gaps are bigger. I reckon the limbs screws could make up for that. Just not sure it all adds up in my mind.
 
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chindits

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Bowhnt, what does tuned exactly mean. I would assume tuned means for good arrow flight. Good arrow flight for me means my arrows are leaving the bow straight as in not at a skewed angle which means my broadheads are hitting with my field points. That's one of my few goals in life. So how would the bow not being to spec make the bow tuned or not. Like how would the shop know that the bow could not be tuned with it meeting manufacture specs. As far as checking the bow, the shop had me shoot field points through paper at about 6 yards and they moved the D-loop for a few adjustments. They didn't even want me shooting the fletchless arrows I brought. I just try to factor that concept into that they may have had my bow "tuned" prior to me shooting and that tuned bow needed a 1/4 added to the ata. School me here
 

kicker338

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This thread is a prime example of why guys should have a draw board. There are so many things you can check with one, poundage, cam timing, draw length, cam lean at full draw just to name a few. They are very easy to make, no need to buy one, do a search on diy draw boards.
 

bowhnt

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Bowhnt, what does tuned exactly mean. I would assume tuned means for good arrow flight. Good arrow flight for me means my arrows are leaving the bow straight as in not at a skewed angle which means my broadheads are hitting with my field points. That's one of my few goals in life. So how would the bow not being to spec make the bow tuned or not. Like how would the shop know that the bow could not be tuned with it meeting manufacture specs. As far as checking the bow, the shop had me shoot field points through paper at about 6 yards and they moved the D-loop for a few adjustments. They didn't even want me shooting the fletchless arrows I brought. I just try to factor that concept into that they may have had my bow "tuned" prior to me shooting and that tuned bow needed a 1/4 added to the ata. School me here

Like stated the specs for each model bow are not the gospel. They are a starting point. As stated above a draw board will tell you a lot. If you are concerned take it to the shop and have them put it on a draw board and have them show you the cam timing. Shooting bullets in paper isn't necessarily perfect either. Any variations in your grip will make it not shoot a perfect bullet hole.
Most bows max 2-3 lbs above their stated draw weight at the given specs. My 70 lb bow maxes at 71lbs tuned.

To change the ata length the strings have to be twisted or untwisted. Every twist will change your cam timing. Depending on the strings the often need a twist or so to make the cams hit correctly. It's the first step in tuning. Cam timing must be on before you can set your rest


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chindits

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okay, so I guess what you are saying is my cam timing will be off at any other ata length. I never would of thought that.
 

Beendare

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Some good comments especially the draw board.

What I've seen with various compounds is you need to know the critical factors and all bows have them. Your bowshop should be able to clue you in on this.

For example, the old single cam Mathews really liked to be at ATA spec.....when longer you could still sometimes get them to tune....but they lost poundage.

A bow is tuned when your BH's shoot to the same POA as your FP's.
 
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chindits

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So help me understand why the location of the d-loop doesn’t effect cam timing? If you have equal size cams and they turn over at an equal rate with your d-loop at location A, and then the d-loop gets moved to a different location on the string, location B, wouldn’t that then effect the rate of cam turn over as the d-loop gets closer to one cam and obviously further from the other cam. Not that I’m on my original question, I’m just trying to get educated now. What is the go to book or video these days on bow tuning yokeless binary cams?

Not that it matteres, but it took a totally different anchor point for me to be able to shoot BH with FP with this bow. That took a lot of experimenting with bareshafts at close range. I’m just glad I figured it out while the original strings were on the bow.
 

bowhnt

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For a good read google the nuts and bolts of archery. Written by a guy on AT.


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mrgreen

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Jul 23, 2013
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Some great info here.

D-Loop placed wrong can definitely cause problems. So can timing, peep placement, cam lean. In other words tuning means finding the "Sweet Spot" for your bow with you shooting it.

I completely agree on building a Draw Board and reading the Nuts-n-Bolts from AT.

PM me if you need links.
 
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