In the market for a new bow.

Joined
Mar 15, 2017
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867
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PA
I am primarily a eastern stand hunter but want to make the switch to western hunting. I have been milking the life out of a Parker Buck Hunter package I purchased 12 or 13 years ago when I first started hunting and It's time for an upgrade. I hit well with it at the ranges I am willing to take a shot at a whitetail, but it's not going to be adequate for the ranges I'm hoping to expand into. It has served me well and put down its share of deer.

I am looking for input on what the main differences between a tree stand hunting bow and a western style hunting bow is.

Is there a difference in the bow itself?

I know the rest and sight are both much more important on a mountain hunting bow, but how are they different?

I would likely set the bow up for a heavy arrow setup.

What price point starts to have diminishing returns?

I don't necessarily have a budget but I don't need to have the latest and greatest. I am not opposed to buying used but I want a bow I can readily get parts for. I would like to be comfortable taking 40-50 yard shots on an elk sized target, but have no intention of taking a 90 yard shot.
 

Muley15

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jan 18, 2017
Messages
198
Location
Minnesota
Really no difference between a tree stand bow and a western bow, really comes down to personal preference. I have mine set up for both and I prefer a bow between 30-32" ata. I personally prefer carbon as well. Dont see myself leaving the Hoyt carbon line.
 

Outwest

WKR
Joined
Dec 30, 2013
Messages
444
Location
New Mexico
You are likely going to get all sorts of opinions on this one. And mine is just one of them.

I would not get hung up on lightweight, most of the most popular aluminum bows nowadays are in the 4.25-4.75 lb range and no one seems to mind to carry them all over the mountains. Although I have never messed with the lightweight carbon bows, I can't imagine it would get more steady to hold by dropping weight.

An easy to tune and forgiving set-up is getting easier and easier to come by in my opinion. Try to find a bow shop that will set up a few different bows for you to try out and see what you hold the steadiest and shoot the best.

As you said, sights and rests can make a huge difference. A high-quality drop-away and a well built sight with 1,2, and 3rd axis adjustment is key to getting consistent arrow flight out at longer ranges.

Most guys are moving towards smaller diameter arrows to help with wind drift issues and increased penetration

I say all this to contradict it by saying, don't get hung up on the notion that hunting in the west will automatically mean you will need a "western hunting bow." Or that you will have to be taking extreme shots all the time. It is more common I guess, but you are still the deciding factor in what kind of shot you will be able to make. A well tuned bow will do almost anything you ask of it, regardless of your longitude.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
3,721
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Utah
Now you get to sort through all the opinions lol

I am looking for input on what the main differences between a tree stand hunting bow and a western style hunting bow is.
Is there a difference in the bow itself?

- I would not have a different set up for both.
- Out West I like a faster bow with a skinny arrow and heavy front for longer shots.
-I run close to 500 gr on my set ups at 305 FPS
- This helps with jumping the string at longer shots when they are on high alert
- The heavy arrow helps reduce noise
- the skinny arrow helps a little in higher cross winds

- For white tail I want all the same things in my set up
- heavier quieter set up
- enough speed to get there before the matrix effect kicks into full on mode


I know the rest and sight are both much more important on a mountain hunting bow, but how are they different?

- I would use the exact same rest no matter where I went
- I use a QAD Ultra

- I would use the same rest
- I have a 5 pin slider.
- out west a slider is nice to have
- some folks go with a 1 pin slider, but I wouldn't ever go less than 4
- I will add if I was tree stand hunting in Wisc, I would probably only use a 3 pin slider and my first pin at 30


I would likely set the bow up for a heavy arrow setup.
- yep me too for all my animals

What price point starts to have diminishing returns?
- there is no price to be put on effectively and ethically taking an animals life
- with that said don't fall for all the gadgets that claim unneccesary value
- not all silencing gadgets are the same
- not all sights with fancy options are a must



I don't necessarily have a budget but I don't need to have the latest and greatest.
- good choice, just get a good proven set up

I am not opposed to buying used but I want a bow I can readily get parts for. I would like to be comfortable taking 40-50 yard shots on an elk sized target, but have no intention of taking a 90 yard shot.
- you will be surprised when you get a good set up bow how a 90 yard shot with practice is not a big deal
- it will open up a whole new world for you

There are probably gonna be a ton of Hoyt bows come up for sale with the release of their new redwerks line
- a good spider turbo, pro defiant etc would be great for you

I shoot PSE
- there are always good deals on used PSE

I would just look for a IBO speed bow around 330 or so, that way you can weight the arrows and still be around 260-290 depending on your dl and dw.


Look around find some deals and come back on here and let the guys offer opinions on those bows

edited* There a lot more good manufacturers out there as well. Elite, Matthews, Prime etc...
 
Last edited:

Murdy

WKR
Joined
Jun 6, 2014
Messages
623
Location
North-Central Illinois
To me, the biggest factor in a treestand bow is A to A length, I currently shoot a 34 inch Hoyt, gets cumbersome sometimes in a treestand. My next bow will be as close to 30 as possible.

I would have assumed that out west, longer bows would be preferred. No real need for the short bow (that I can think of) and the longer is more stable.

I was looking around a month or so ago and it seems to be a good time to buy used.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
3,721
Location
Utah
To me, the biggest factor in a treestand bow is A to A length, I currently shoot a 34 inch Hoyt, gets cumbersome sometimes in a treestand. My next bow will be as close to 30 as possible.

I would have assumed that out west, longer bows would be preferred. No real need for the short bow (that I can think of) and the longer is more stable.

I was looking around a month or so ago and it seems to be a good time to buy used.

Good point- for me I always shoot a short A-A bow at 33 1/4. I tree stand hunt with it as well as S&S.
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
1,052
Location
Yorkville, IL
I am primarily a eastern stand hunter but want to make the switch to western hunting. I have been milking the life out of a Parker Buck Hunter package I purchased 12 or 13 years ago when I first started hunting and It's time for an upgrade. I hit well with it at the ranges I am willing to take a shot at a whitetail, but it's not going to be adequate for the ranges I'm hoping to expand into. It has served me well and put down its share of deer.

I am looking for input on what the main differences between a tree stand hunting bow and a western style hunting bow is.

Is there a difference in the bow itself?

I know the rest and sight are both much more important on a mountain hunting bow, but how are they different?

I would likely set the bow up for a heavy arrow setup.

What price point starts to have diminishing returns?

I don't necessarily have a budget but I don't need to have the latest and greatest. I am not opposed to buying used but I want a bow I can readily get parts for. I would like to be comfortable taking 40-50 yard shots on an elk sized target, but have no intention of taking a 90 yard shot.
Like the others have said, I don't think the bow matters as much as how you set it up. You can set up a shorter bow for longer shots and vice versa. I think buying used is a great way to try different rigs until you find one that fits you. I have bought and sold five bows in the last year to finally find one I really like.

My primary bow is:

Prime centergy hybrid

60-70lbs, gonna get 80lbs limbs soon

Hamskea hybrid hunter pro microtune

Fast eddie XL double pin

Quivalizer

Back up bow is:

Darton 3800

60-70 lbs

AAE DOA arrow rest

Fast eddie (not xl)

Quivalizer

Both bows are longish, almost 34" axle to axle for the 3800 and 35.25" for the hybrid. My personal preference (which I found out through trial and error) is longer axle to axle bows. I am just more accurate with the more forgiving length. I hunt eastern and western style and don't feel like I want anything different.

I will just echo what was said before, find a bow that fits you and your needs and get it dialed in.

I have to say that Darton bows can be found for cheap used and you can buy cam modules and bow parts directly from Darton. They have been great to work with.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
Joined
May 13, 2014
Messages
354
If you are interested in a PSE I have a Decree HD 60-70#, 2015 I would make you a good deal on.


Sent from the Arizona desert
 

Btaylor

WKR
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
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Location
Arkansas
I would suggest you go to a shop and shoot as many different brands as possible and find the bow that fits you the best. That is the bow you will be the most accurate with and the most confident in when the time comes to loose an arrow on game.
 
OP
F
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
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867
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I live about 20 minutes from Lancaster archery so I'll just go in and try a bunch of their offerings.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have been into archery hunting for so long but have somehow never looked into the tackle that closely.

For instance, I never knew that axle to axle equated to more stability.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2016
Messages
3,721
Location
Utah
I live about 20 minutes from Lancaster archery so I'll just go in and try a bunch of their offerings.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have been into archery hunting for so long but have somehow never looked into the tackle that closely.

For instance, I never knew that axle to axle equated to more stability.


I wish I lived 20 minutes from Lancaster Archery......
They will take good care of you.
Take your time. make several trips.
You may get fatigued after shooting your 15th bow and not get a correct assessment of it.
 
OP
F
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Messages
867
Location
PA
I wish I lived 20 minutes from Lancaster Archery......
They will take good care of you.
Take your time. make several trips.
You may get fatigued after shooting your 15th bow and not get a correct assessment of it.

I used to go to church with the guy who started it. I didn't realize how big they are until just a few years ago.
 
Joined
Jun 30, 2015
Messages
356
Location
Ohio
You can get a really nice 2 year old bow completely setup for the price of a new bare bow. I personally buy used bows all the time and havent had an issue doing it.

As far as a EAST vs WEST bow i really dont know what the difference would be. Ive never had an issue with a 35" bow in my stand that i wouldnt have had with a 30" bow, and i shoot the longer bow better. Thats just something you will have to try out for yourself.

Im not a speed freak but for hunting i do try to shoot bows that are at least mid 330s for IBO. It just helps with getting a heavier arrow to those longer distances without huge amounts of drop.

I would focus on grip feel and the backwall/valley when looking at bows. I feel like you can get use to just about any draw cycle, but the grip and backwall/valley can be very hard to get use to if it doesnt fit your style of shooting.

Tons of good bows out there to pick from!
 

NebraskaStickHunter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Sep 17, 2017
Messages
264
Location
Nebraska
Use all the advice you can from the guys who imparted their wisdom upon you. I would like to also add that a well tuned bow will help keep you from losing your mind I learned the hard way after the big box store “archery pro” set my bow up and I couldn’t get it to shoot consistently. Paper tune, walk back tune, check factory specs and if you get a single cam bow then check cam lean and take care of any issues that arise. You will have a bow that is capable of more than you are personally. Good luck in your quest and enjoy the journey.
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
2,675
Location
North Carolina
there are a bunch of nice choices out there...we sale several brands...last year I found myself using a darton maverick. most don't know alot of darton but they make a great bow...if you need more help let us know

there are so many choices available...I always recommend shoot as many as you can and let the bow pick you
 
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