Vane clearance

[Shaverdan]

Went out and shot the new set up found arrows to be corkscrewing a bit. Eventually found my vanes to be hitting my rest. I shoot cock vane up for cable clearance. Use a full length carbon express mayhem 350 with blazers and will have a 100 grain ramcat on it. I'm thinking low profile vanes are the answer, my brother has a bitz and said just give him the vanes and he will throw them on. I have very little experience with anything but blazers. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Cant hit em]

In your bottom photo is how you nock the arrow ? Thats not cock vane up. Rest timing could be your issue if not set up properly


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[N2TRKYS]

I've shot mine that way and never had any issues. Sounds like your bow isn't setup right.

 

[Shaverdan]

Sorry I meant to say cock out to clear the cables . The rest is a Ripcord SOS with the cable down to the bottom limb I thought it could be timing issues but then the vane marks are on the back of the rest as well which makes me think it's all the way down when the vanes pass it.

 

[jframe]

I rotate my nock about an 1/8 turn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Planopurist]

Are you sure your nock point and center shot are correct? What’s your draw weight and length? Under-spined arrows could have too much paradox and hit the rest.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Planopurist]

I rotate my nock about an 1/8 turn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good point. Are all your arrows contacting or just some of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Sharp Things]

I set up a fair number of bows and a trick I use is to film the shot (or use a tripod if alone) and use my smart phone in slow motion video and I amazing what you can see regarding fleshing clearance issues, You should be seeing fletching damage and rest wear if this has been a persistent problem. A little nock rotation may be the solution. Powder the rest to see where the impact is.

 

[Beendare]

Looks like your knocking point is too low.

Your arrow should look pretty close to perpendicular to the string when the rest is in the upright location. If your nokking point is below that....showing the arrow angling upward....your nok point is too low.

With correct nok location.....the only clearance issue you can have with that rest is timing; ie- the rest is elevating too early in the draw cycle. You want it to lift the arrow at the very end of your draw.

 

[Shaverdan]

So I shot it threw paper today and the holes see pretty good but not perfect, and there is no consistency to the imperfect tears probably because of the contact. While we were looking at it my bro noticed although level I have it set up a little higher than center off the berger holes. I think at this point I'm going to both try for a more low profile vanes and retie my nock point to correspond to the center of the berger holes and retune from there's. Here is a slow motion of the shot that was suggested I thought it was a pretty good idea. Thanks everybody and sorry for the grammer and misspellings hard to post these from a cell phone

Bow shot - YouTube

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Blazer vanes, did not work for me, either! I went to VaneTec # VT307, VMAX, 3inch, low profile (.490 high) Vanes using, an Arizona EZ fletch 3 degree helical ! They are quieter than Blazers and fly my Strikers and VPA broadhead's, to the same POI out to 70 yards. You may also want an experienced Archer, watch your "Grip" for Torque as, I had the same problem as you, 2 years ago (hand Torquing) and Vanes hitting. I have some weight forward, in my arrows, to increase the Arrows FOC for, good penetration, on Elk and Moose. Both, Vanes and NOT torquing the grip,.. solved my problems, hope this help's.

 

[mfllood3800]

I shoot a PSE, and my arrows are set above the Berger hole.
The bottom of my shaft runs along the top of the hole.

I shoot a QAD rest
I shoot blazers, both 2" regular and the low profile heat vanes

Both shot well
I Just got in and fetched some aee vane tec, and these shot really good too
Probably a bit quieter.

Any of these set ups should work if you are set up correctly on bow and arrow build and using fair to good form

Some times the vanes are too far forward on the shaft, and create problems

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

 

[Shaverdan]

Saw a post earlier about people getting what they need from this forum and then never hearing back so I wanted to come back and thank everybody for their help. I ended up stripping the shafts and 4 fletching bohning heat vanes offset. I brought the arrow back through the center of the berger hole and retied my d loop accordingly. I built a draw board and checked my timing and set my limb stops. Timing is good, pretty sure my string has stretched because my 65lb bow maxed out is drawing at 63. Will replace it after the hunting season. My arrow flight has improved I don't have vane contact anymore, I ended up bumping up to a 125 gr field tip to bump up foc a bit because I added the slightly heavier lighted nocks. After all of this and practicing as much as my situation will allow I'm very happy with my accuracy. Preparing for my first trip out west in September and I've never gone into a bow season as confident in my shooting and equipment as I am now. Thanks everybody for the help and suggestions.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

Since this, is a problem for, many Archers and Bow Hunters, shooting PSE Bows and others with, Vane "clearance issues", I thought, I'd like to, re-iterate some of what's been said,.. and my findings, on this subject.
I personally love, my PSE bow BUT, it's been a PITA to "set-up" and get to shoot consistently well, due to some clearance issues with the vanes hitting, the Riser and my new, QAD ultrarest. So here's what "worked" for me,...
The 2.5 inch, VanetTec, V Max vanes, 4 Fletched, 90* w/ some Helical. They steered FIXED blade, Broadheads ( the VPA 100 gr. vented, 100 gr Strikers, 100 gr. Wac'em's, etc. ) very well, out of my 55 pound, PSE DNA SP bow. My arrows shoot like, Darts, now with, 14% FOC ( 50 gr insert and 20 gr Fact ) for a 458 - 460 grain Arrow, built on 340 Gold Tip's,.. and they Penetrate, super ! I use a 5 Pin sight, 30-70 yard pins and they all fit well, in the sight housing. But, most importantly, the Vanes finally, CLEAR, everything !!
I will also be trying the VaneTec, 3" Super Spines, 4 Fletched, as shown by, mfllood3800, 2 posts above, the red and orange, VanTec's. Several archers, have said that, they also "work" very well, w/ fixed B-H's. I plan to find out for myself. My son and grandson, are using 3" Max Stealths ( a slightly Taller Vane ) 3 Fletched, W/ heavy Helical, with great success.
Both types of, VaneTec's and the Max Stealth, are quiet, vanes ( important to Hunters ! ). Note; the 4 fletched, 2.5" V Max, flew better than, 3 of, the 3" V-Maxes for me and my "set up". I noted that, like mfllood said, my arrows "bottom" section, cuts about1/2 way thru, the top side of, the Berger hole with, a fairly high Nock point that seems, to be needed on, PSE bows. Hopefully, this may help someone with, these "problems" ! good luck !

 

[jmez]

How can your vanes be contacting the riser if your centershot is set correctly? They would hit the cables before they hit the riser?

Only way I could see that happening is the rest being way inside of spec. If that is the case then shim the cams rather than moving the rest. Never shot PSE but should be able to tune them at factory centershot and then riser contact shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Idaho Lefty]

How can your vanes be contacting the riser if your centershot is set correctly? They would hit the cables before they hit the riser?

Only way I could see that happening is the rest being way inside of spec. If that is the case then shim the cams rather than moving the rest. Never shot PSE but should be able to tune them at factory centershot and then riser contact shouldn't be an issue.

The bigger Blazer type Vanes, were hitting, the Radius of my Riser, on my L-H, DNA SP, bow and I was getting "lipstick" on the top of the "flipper" fork, on my New QAD ultrarest,.."others" have had "issues", too ! My Bow tunes, high on the Berger hole and slightly LEFT of the riser's C/L, of the witness mark. I have NO problems now, with the 4 fletch, 2.5" V-Maxes and they shoot like Darts, even with FBH'S ! I'm not an expert on, "shimming" the Cams. See mfllood's post,.. SAME "issues" w/ PSE Bow. I think the risers, radius, on MY bow, is cut too, small and too far, to the right, ( LH Bow) for Blazers type vanes. LOVE the Power stroke/ Velocity/ accuracy of , my PSE but, it was a bit of a PITA to "set up" ! Agree with you, on it possibly being, "inside of Spec" !