Tuning?

[dgever]

Took a trip to a well known archery shop to get a new rest and have the bow tuned. My original plan was to have the bow paper tuned and then bare shaft tuned, which would be a first for me.

For some reason the guys at the shop had a hard time paper tuning the bow. Thankfully it was a slow day and they wouldn’t accept mediocracy and kept tweaking things until it was shooting bullet holes. They ended up having 3 guys working on it for 4 hours. In the end adding 25 grains to the points is what did the trick.

After all that the bare shafts were way off of the fletched arrows. Before we even started none of them were thrilled about the idea of bare shaft tuning, so I decided to be thankful for the service they had provided and leave it be.

I haven’t shot broadheads yet, but is the bare shaft tuning something I should pursue?

 

[Ucsdryder]

So it took them 4 hours to figure out your arrows were overspined?

What is your bow specs and arrow specs?

 

[Brendan]

Paper tuning by the shop is a good start. But after that, you should tune the bow with you shooting it. Not a shooting machine, not someone else shooting it.

Whether or not you choose to use bare shafts is up to you. A bare shaft and a broadhead should show the same reaction. A broadhead missing right of your field point is the same as a tail left bare shaft that misses to the right of your field point...

What kind of bow are we talking about here? I personally haven't been overspined before except in one case when it was a really short, really stiff arrow (250 spine arrow that was likely acting a lot stiffer)

 

[dgever]

Prime Ion , 28.5 inch draw length, 70# shooting Easton Carbon Aftermath 340.

This was my first time at this place, but I don’t think they are incompetent. I don’t think anyone would have thought that 340’s were overspend with that setup.

 

[Brendan]

Well - a Prime makes it simple. You tune it by moving the rest or adjusting the cable guard unless you want to get into shimming the cams.

If it were me - I'd test with bare shafts and broadheads compared to field points, and see what's happening. At the very least, I wouldn't call tuning "Done" until my broadheads and field points hit together.

Strange that more point weight is what cleaned up your tune. A 340 with 100 grain point really isn't that stiff at your DL.

 

[2blade]

I don't paper tune my bows but do bare shaft tune. On a bow that can be yoke tuned, I can generally get the right spined bare shaft, use OT2 to find a starting point, to hit with field points to 40 yards,, one bow I had a bare shaft tuned to 80 yards. Most importantly is for the bare shaft to fly straight. Rest is set to center with a laser. Broadhead tuning is the finish but rarely do I have to move anything.

On bows that I can't yoke tune, I tune the bare shaft by arrow length and field tip weight. It can be tough to get them to hit together if cam lean is bad so I shoot for close, all in a pie plate at 40 yds works well. Usually as long as that bare shaft is flying straight broadheads will hit with fieldpoints. I have messed with cable guard clearance to reduce cam lean as well. Never bothered with shimming cams but do have a bow in my possession that it would probably help.

Never shot a prime but I don't think they are supposed to have much cam lean so it shouldn't be to hard? I would have set the rest at center with a laser, started with that 340 a little long, Primes not in OT2 database, and trimmed a half inch at a time until flight was straight and they hit reasonably close with a fletched arrow. Fletch em up and broadhead tune.

 

[Planopurist]

Prime Ion , 28.5 inch draw length, 70# shooting Easton Carbon Aftermath 340.

This was my first time at this place, but I don’t think they are incompetent. I don’t think anyone would have thought that 340’s were overspend with that setup.

I wouldn’t think so either. I shoot 340 Gold Tips at that draw length and 62-63 lbs. But, they effectively weakens the spine to get it tuned. You should ask them to let you try a 400, particularly if you would be interested in a little more speed.


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[Hoh Down]

The older primes are very easy to tune. Get them in spec and all you should really have to do is micro tune. I shoot an Alloy, same specs as you at 28.5" and 70lbs. When i make major adjustments to my setup I tune or re-tune in this order:

1. Make sure axle to axle and brace height are correct (use cables to adjust as necessary). Keep in mind that this can affect draw length and pull weight.
1A. Forgot to mention - make sure that the timing is dead nuts on the cams. Use the draw stops to adjust until they are perfect.
2. Center shot is at 13/16"
3. Nock is level at 90*
4. Paper tune (I only worry about fletched arrows)
5. Modified french tune
6. Broadhead tune

I find that by the time I get to step 6 that i only have to make really small adjustments to my rest.

Good luck