Ques. my new to me, HOYT.

[boom]

i bought a used 2017 Carbon Defiant 34. i took the used bow route to save money, since the catalyst to even buy another bow was to try shooting left handed.

had the peep adjusted to my height, bought a new QAD-rest, and dug up an old broken 7-deadly pins my buddy gave me years ago. i wanted to minimize cost in case this did not work out.

shooting the thing. i immediately noticed i had very little valley. what i did have was "right there" at the stops. i shot it some more and more. i could hit bulls at 20. seriously the most awkward thing was putting on a wrist release. goofy!! i sat down and looked the bow over. (i'm mostly a solo cam guy - 1 Elite bow) i noted the timing holes were not similarly positioned on each cam. one was advanced, one was retarded. DING! question #1, @brace; the holes on the cams should be similarly position relative to the cable, no? Que#2. timing being off would kill the valley right?

i noted some beat up serving, so i decided to move forward with the "lefty project" and invest in new strings and a brand new tune. i'll order a new bowsight this evening from SandSarchery. i just dropped my bow off at the local shop.

i need to order the LCA hoyt finger adapters too damn..that little nugget info slipped right past me...

 

[Brendan]

So - Hoyts aren't timed using timing holes, they're timed based on the position of the cable stops hitting the cables at full draw. The starting timing should be the top and bottom cable stops hitting the cables at exactly the same time - you need a draw board for this.

While you're at it, set pre-lean of the top cam using the legs of the buss cable (Arrow down left side of top cam crosses string around D-loop is what worked for me and my grip) and make sure your draw weight is where you need it using buss cable, make sure timing is still on using control cable, and make sure that your peep sight isn't rotated by adjusting the string. All of these involve tweaks to the string and cables - so you might as well take care of it to start. But, things could stretch / settle after a couple hundred shots, so be prepared to check again

I then start by setting my rest at dead centershot with an arrow going straight down the middle of the bow, middle of the two limb bolts when viewed from above. Arrow should start at nock level before you start tuning. Once you get to tuning arrow flight - you could need more changes to get perfect flight. You also have the option of adding a limb stop if you want a firmer back wall.

I've never shot Elite, but from what I've been told Hoyts do have a shorter valley and more aggressive feel to them. But - once you get used to them, it's not an issue.

Good luck with the new bow!

 

[boom]

oh!

so those two holes in the cams are not just a quick/dirty visual reference to check timing at Brace?

 

[Brendan]

oh!

so those two holes in the cams are not just a quick/dirty visual reference to check timing at Brace?

No idea if they get you close or not. But, the manual specifies using the stops, and has no mention of those holes as it relates to timing. Pretty sure using the cable stops is universal for all recent Hoyts...

 

[RosinBag]

In what your describing I would imagine you have many issues. The module also need to correspond to where you put your cable stops. That is one of the biggest reasons for no valley in that cam.

I would also double check the cables, buss and control, and the string to make sure they are the correct length.

Once those items are completed. You should be close to spec on your brace, ata, max poundage and let off percent. That cam has plenty of a valley that you should feel and if you don’t something mentioned above is out of spec.

 

[boom]

In what your describing I would imagine you have many issues. The module also need to correspond to where you put your cable stops. That is one of the biggest reasons for no valley in that cam.

I would also double check the cables, buss and control, and the string to make sure they are the correct length.

Once those items are completed. You should be close to spec on your brace, ata, max poundage and let off percent. That cam has plenty of a valley that you should feel and if you don’t something mentioned above is out of spec.

thanks bud.

i ordered new factory strings. the strings on there are factory as well. the modules and string stops correspond to each other. first thing i looked at. i'm gonna get help and start over from scratch.

and order the Hoyt adaptors for my press (plus finish my drawboard i have in a box)

 

[woodson]

If you want to see how to set up most 2017 Hoyt bows, including timing it correctly, this is a long watch, but probably the most thorough video available on "out of the box" or "new to you" tuning. This video is featured elsewhere on the forum, but this will save you having to dig.

Hoyt RX1 REDWRX Bow Build with JOHN DUDLEY- Patriot Edition - YouTube

 

[boom]

If you want to see how to set up most 2017 Hoyt bows, including timing it correctly, this is a long watch, but probably the most thorough video available on "out of the box" or "new to you" tuning. This video is featured elsewhere on the forum, but this will save you having to dig.

Hoyt RX1 REDWRX Bow Build with JOHN DUDLEY- Patriot Edition - YouTube

Thank you Woodson. That is great.

I picked up my bow today. It is a different bow! Easy draw, great valley, and easy to hold at full draw! I’m still building up muscle memory. Drawing a bow lefty. My anchor point is dead nuts. I’ll hit the range tomorrow!

 

[boom]

Dudley guy would be the BEST next door neighbor EVER! I would definitely volunteer to baby sit his dog