Another DIY Stove

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
First off I realize this is pretty close to the Ti Goat and Ed T designs but I am a cheap ass and like to tinker...

Since I was building this all from scratch and was still not sure if I would even use this I decided to use all SS because its about 40% cheaper than Titanium. I am planning on using this in my Oware 9'x9' pyramid tent but if it works out well I could order the 16" or 22" stove body in the future and use it in my 12'x12 canvas pyramid tent.

Step one: Order SS stock from Ti Goat - $89.25 total with shipping
attachment.php

*Stove body - 3' of 12" SS stock $17.25 *I used a circumference calculator and thought 2' would be enough - its not.
*Stove pipe - 7' of 10" SS stock $42.00
*DIY Damper - $10.00
*End Ring - $2.00 ea *Don't be like me and read Ti Goats directions - you need 2 of these.
*Stove pipe cable rings - $1.75 ea *need one of these every 12"-18" - I ordered 4 but ended up needing 5.

Step 2: Go to REI - $31.94 with tax
*MSR Alpine Plate for stove ends. $9.95ea and I planned on using 3 so I can cut the stove door out of the third.
attachment.php


Step 3: Wander into Walmart for something and...
*Realize they sell a 4 piece SS burner covers for your kitchen stove for only $12.97. You get both end plates and 2 extra larger ones plus they weigh less and the shape actually seems to hold the stove body better than the MSR plates. $13.84 total with tax.
attachment.php


Step 4: Return MSR plates back to REI

Step 5: Home Depot for misc supplies $35.25
attachment.php

*1/16 aircraft cable and cable clamps for body rings, stove rings and door handle.
*Pop rivets
*Threaded rod, washers and wing nuts for body supports.
*Hinges for door
*Dremel cut off wheels and sanding discs.
 

Attachments

  • photo 4 (1).jpg
    photo 4 (1).jpg
    86.4 KB · Views: 5,560
  • photo 1.jpg
    photo 1.jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 5,463
  • photo 2 (1).jpg
    photo 2 (1).jpg
    93.5 KB · Views: 5,452
  • photo 3 (1).jpg
    photo 3 (1).jpg
    93.3 KB · Views: 5,414
Last edited:
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
For tools, I used basic hand tools like a tape, square, pliers, dykes, kitchen shears, drill and assorted drill bits. Also used a dremel tool with cut off wheels and sanding discs and a crimping tool that I borrowed (looks like a bolt cutter) from work for the cable clamps.

First I started by putting together the stove body and realized that the 2' of SS foil was about 1-1/2" too short - had to reorder 3' for an extra $20.75.
*I should have taken a few pics of this.

Second, I went back and forth over the threaded rods or springs for the body support. The springs are throttle return springs than can be found at any auto parts store and weigh about 1/3 of the threaded rod but since the stove pipe and damper would be resting on the top supports and I might actually want the extra strength of the threaded rods.
attachment.php

Each of these are 13" of threaded rod, 2 wing nuts and 2 - 1" washers that I bent to grab on the end plates. 2 up top and one on the bottom. I messed up the threads on either end so there should not be a way to lose any of the pieces. These seem to give the best support but weigh a bit more.

attachment.php

At first I thought these were going to be the ticket so I drilled 3 small holes in one of the end plates so the springs would stay attached but they interfered with the stove body locking into place on the end plate and I really dd not want to cut into the stove body. So I cut off the key ring end and bent a hook to match the other side.

For now I am thinking the threaded rods on top and the springs on the bottom might be best but I am still trying out a few other ideas.

Next the stove pipe - it is a pain to get rolled up for the first time so get someone to help. Ti Goat actually drills the holes in the right spot for the damper and this actually works a lot better than I expected. I also noticed that one more stove ring would be helpful but was able to make it from the cable and clams. Ti Goat sells these for $1.75 ea and it costs about $.80 to make them if you have the clamping tool.
attachment.php

Ti Goat on the left and mine on the right - even thought the cable and clamp are slightly bigger they weigh almost the exact same .05oz different

And since I was at it I made the body rings
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • photo 3 (2).jpg
    photo 3 (2).jpg
    87.4 KB · Views: 5,292
  • photo 4 (2).jpg
    photo 4 (2).jpg
    91.4 KB · Views: 5,274
  • photo 1 (1).jpg
    photo 1 (1).jpg
    89.9 KB · Views: 5,212
  • photo 2 (2).jpg
    photo 2 (2).jpg
    91.9 KB · Views: 5,219
Last edited:

SHTF

WKR
Classified Approved
Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Messages
5,094
Location
Colorado
Got the start of an Ed T Stove for sure. Nicely done on Materials. I have one Im working on now also thats a complete unit no pieces. Only thing is its 5 inches in diameter. Not as big as Id like but its nice to just throw my stove pipe right into the stove unscrew the legs, close the lid, and throw it in the pack. I currently use the Ed T 12/16 stove. Its a bit of a learning curve getting the stove together but Im getting used to it after running it twice now.
 

SHTF

WKR
Classified Approved
Joined
Feb 4, 2013
Messages
5,094
Location
Colorado
Hardest Part I found was cutting the holes for the Vents in front. The drill bit takes forever and you end up punching through the other side which leaves a lot of jagged edges. If some knows a better way to cut holes that leaves the opposite side clean and no sharp edges, aside from a CNC Machine please let me know. Now my lid has about 8 holes that I have to clean up the inside of the lid cause it punched through instead of a clean cut. Its still workable though.

Maybe youll have better luck at that part on yours.
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
Next was cutting the stove pipe hole in the stove body - I centered it length of the stove body and about 2-1/2" to center from the back to clear the back plate. I drilled a few hole inside the 2-3/16" stove pipe outline that I traced with a sharpie and used the kitchen shears to cut the hole. Lastly I used the dremel with the sanding bit to smooth out any rough spots. *Again I should have taken a picture of this.

Oh ya do yourself a favor and mark center line of the end plates and stove body so its easy to line up the marks during assembly.

Next up is cutting the door and drilling the vent holes in the front plate. One thing did not like about either the Ti Goat or Ed T stoves was how small the opening was. I know the stove is not going to burn real big material but the bigger opening makes it easier to load and stoke.
I used thin cardboard to trace out templates and build a mock up. Once I got a couple bugs and alignment issues handled I transferred over the door shape and cut it out with the dremel. The actual door is just about 1/4" over sized of the opening and was cut out of the larger SS burner covers.

I also drilled out the vent holes at the same time - with the SS start with small drill bits and slowly work up to the desired size other wise the SS can actually tear if you start with the bigger bit.

Lastly I drilled out the holes for the hinges and riveted the door to the front plate. For a handle I decided on simple cable with a bolt to latch over. I am not 100% sold on this yet because it can be hard to latch but it works and the cable stays cool.
attachment.php


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • photo 02 - Copy.jpg
    photo 02 - Copy.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 5,053
  • photo 03.jpg
    photo 03.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 5,063
Last edited:
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
Here it is all finished up and burning in my back yard.
photo01_zpse8b6eb98.jpg

photo02_zpsa7ba72b2.jpg

photo12_zpsb08b7ee4.jpg

One thing I have not gotten nailed down yet is legs and I am honestly leaning towards just using rocks like I have the bricks set up.
 
Last edited:

colonel00

WKR
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
4,776
Location
Lost
Looks really good, bbrown. How does that bolt above the door hold the door closed? Also, what weight are you looking at?

Hmm, can't see your last three pics.
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
So all totaled up I have just under $150 into this project but minus my mistakes and few odds this really should be done for around $115 for everything you need.

It tips the scale at 2lbs 4oz right now but I think I can shave a few ozs off in a few places - not terrible for an all SS stove. For comparison TI Goat all titanium stove is at 1lb 10oz advertised weight of a stove with the same dimensions and stove pipe length but it also comes with a $275 price tag plus shipping.

Let me know if you have any questions or need any more pictures.
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
colonel00 - the cable loops over the bolt but its not perfect.
Not sure why the pictures have not been showing up for some people.
 

colonel00

WKR
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
4,776
Location
Lost
colonel00 - the cable loops over the bolt but its not perfect.
Not sure why the pictures have not been showing up for some people.

Ah, gotcha. You could check to see if the SS is magnetic (slight chance) and magnets could be used to hold the door closed and to cover the intake vents to control the fire.
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
I don't get it - you guys can see all the other pics but just not the last 3??? I posted all the pics the same way...

blb078 - I left the stove body at the full 3' length but it could really be around 28-30", if I left the bottom support rod at home and used 2 springs instead and a the body rings are not really needed just helpful. Doubt if I can get it under 2lbs but prolly pretty close.
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
Ah, gotcha. You could check to see if the SS is magnetic (slight chance) and magnets could be used to hold the door closed and to cover the intake vents to control the fire.

My wife actually suggested the magnets too and I was going check into that.
 
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,804
Location
eatonvile, wa
My wife actually suggested the magnets too and I was going check into that.

i have not been around any stainless yet thats magnetic... typically when material is in question, i put my magnet on it to check if its stainless

btw, very nice work on the stove
 
OP
bbrown

bbrown

WKR
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
2,849
Location
Laporte - CO
Sounds like the pictures are the problem - I will take some picture with a real camera tonight. Stupid Iphone...
 

colonel00

WKR
Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
4,776
Location
Lost
i have not been around any stainless yet thats magnetic... typically when material is in question, i put my magnet on it to check if its stainless

btw, very nice work on the stove

Yeah, odds are slim, especially with consumer materials but I was thinking that the Walmart stainless may not be quite the stainless we expect.
 
Top