18" Cylinder Stove Body Source?

gudspelr

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I'm getting close on my pyramid tent and want to get the stuff to make my cylinder stove. I'd planned on an 18" long stove body, but the sites I'm looking at appear to sell 12" and 16" Ti. Started looking for stainless shim stock at MSC, but couldn't find 18" wide stock there, either. Anyone have ideas or should I just figure on a 16" long stove? Thanks in advance for any help.

Oh, and side note-I was planning on .004 stainless if I go that route. That's the thickness I see TiGoat sells for stove pipe material. The Ti is .005. That sound correct to those who've made their own?

Jeremy
 

Beendare

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I've built these stoves from SS shim...but elected to buy one from Brenden above....its a good product. BTW get the baffle or build it with one as it works fantastic...and saves you from burning any holes in your tipi

baffle.jpg

You can see the smoke curling around the baffle which is essentially a flat plate above that has sides tight to the side walls of the cylinder with a 1" gap in back and about 2 1/2" short of the door in front.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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LiteOutdoors - Lightweight Titanium Stoves

You can get 18" wide Ti foil there.

FYI, I just got an 18" with a 7' pipe a few weeks ago and burned it in. Very nice fit/finish on the door/vent and the rods are spring loaded now.

Here are the new rods for anyone curious.

HddlFg6l.jpg
 
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gudspelr

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Thanks for the info, somehow I missed that Liteoutdoors had it.... Any idea on shipping times for Canada to Idaho? Any sources of stainless in that width?

Beendare-
I'd been thinking about a baffle to help with longer burn times and fewer sparks out the stove pipe. Seemed like there were mixed reviews-some guys loved it and others had a heck of a time making it work without smoking them out. I was under the impression there wasn't a gap in the end the stove pipe was in? So all the smoke/gases had to go to the opposite end and then back to the pipe. If there was an opening at both ends, would that defeat the purpose of the baffle to an extent? Hope I'm not thinking of this wrong?

Jeremy
 
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gudspelr

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Wow, that's all kinds of fast. I'm planning on using the stainless stove top burner covers for the ends. Will have to figure out what that diameter works out to and how long the Ti will need to be to wrap around. What's a good overlap for the body? And if the standard cables will fit around it all or if I'll have to find other cables. Thanks pods8.

Jeremy
 

colonel00

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Wow, that's all kinds of fast. I'm planning on using the stainless stove top burner covers for the ends. Will have to figure out what that diameter works out to and how long the Ti will need to be to wrap around. What's a good overlap for the body? And if the standard cables will fit around it all or if I'll have to find other cables. Thanks pods8.

Jeremy

If he doesn't reply to this thread, you might PM bbrown as he could probably tell you. I don't have my stove handy so I can't measure it until the end of the week.

Regarding the burner covers, I've set up my stove system to use both sizes. I also have 12" and 18" body lengths. I just have the body foil long enough to use with the bigger burner covers and then just roll it a little tighter for the smaller cover. Sure, it's a little extra weight but not that much. Most of the weight of a stove comes from the pipe.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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The overlap zone is between the bottom legs on the stove. What is that off hand 6-8" or so? Isn't liteoutdoors using stove covers as well? If so I don't see why the cables wouldn't work.
 

Beendare

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Thanks for the info, somehow I missed that Liteoutdoors had it.... Any idea on shipping times for Canada to Idaho? Any sources of stainless in that width?

Beendare-
I'd been thinking about a baffle to help with longer burn times and fewer sparks out the stove pipe. Seemed like there were mixed reviews-some guys loved it and others had a heck of a time making it work without smoking them out. I was under the impression there wasn't a gap in the end the stove pipe was in? So all the smoke/gases had to go to the opposite end and then back to the pipe. If there was an opening at both ends, would that defeat the purpose of the baffle to an extent? Hope I'm not thinking of this wrong?

Jeremy

Jeremy,
For these stoves to draft you have to get a fairly hot fire going quickly...then they work great. The stove I built without the baffle was the same. If you start these with fine twigs the size of 12 ga wire, it gets them going then lowly work up to bigger stuff. They really don't burn big chunks well until you build up some coals...and even then the volume of these limits what you can use and shortens burn time. You really have to keep feeding them 1"- 2" small diameter sticks for them to work well.

Using this strategy, the baffle works just as Brenden says it will. Plus the stove breathes better than with the sooted up screens in other designs like I made for my last one. I was skeptical of the smaller 2 1/2" pipe [I used 3" on my last one] but it works well. You do have to figure on a little bit of smoke from these stoves...it just happens.
 
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gudspelr

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Thanks everyone. I'll look more closely at the cable and circumference measurements. Would love to just get pre made ones.

Beendare-
I was talking to the guy at TiGoqt about stove pipe size and he suggested the 3" but said either would work. I understand it to be that the same amount of draft will occur, but the smoke/gases move through the smaller diameter pipe faster. I don't know if that's necessarily better or worse?Thabks again for your insights.

Jeremy
 
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You can just buy some wire leader and crimps for fishing and make your own for the pipe and body. Very easy and cheap plus they are super easy to lose out in the tall grass so bring extra.
 
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