Placement of a stove

[amp713]

So Im picking up a tipi to test that doesn't include a stove jack, I have the idea to add one but am curious about placement of a stove/jack. Is the center the best option? Is there a minimum distance to keep it from your trecking/center pole? What about a minimum distance from the wall of the tipi?

Im generally an early season hunter but have plans to use this during early season shed stumbles and scouting, I also plan to eventually use it if I ever end up hunting a late season if I can get the stovejack worked out. Hoping to also use this for trips with the wife and kids and their ideas of warm will probably differ from mine so being able to add some heat should help.

I don't plan to run a big stove, infact I wonder if going to a wood burning stove that requires a stove jack is even the best option. Im new into the tipi world so Im still trying to figure it all out.

It is a hex shaped tipi with basically an 8x8 foot print and under 5 feet tall if that helps with decisions or recommendations. Also don't mind some input on stove/heating system ideas

 

[realunlucky]

Light wieght stoves the chimney pipe holds tons of heat so the more you have inside your shelter the more efficient the stove becomes that's a great reason to have in by the center pole

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[amp713]

Aww see that's a little fact I was unaware of!!

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Next to the pole is also best because the pipe needs to be a bit taller than the peak to prevent holes from being burned in the tipi and the farther away from the center you get the more pipe you have outside to be subject to wind. The minimum distances vary by manufacturers but typically it's between 4-6".

Live2hunt custom shelters

 

[archer wapiti]

I installed mine close enough to the door that it can contact the chimney. I'm not sure where else I'd have put it in my particular style tent (appy trails), but if you've got a round floorplan, put it so that door can't contact it.

 

[JigStick]

Its also nice to keep it in the center so you don't have another obstacle to dodge when walking around. The center pole is already there. So might as well tuck the stove and pipe close to it. Plus it will more evenly distribute the heat.

 

[jmden]

Light wieght stoves the chimney pipe holds tons of heat so the more you have inside your shelter the more efficient the stove becomes that's a great reason to have in by the center pole

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What he said...

 

[amp713]

thanks guys guess that's the main goal then! Other question kind of as a spin off but not enough of one to start another thread. What is a good small lightweight stove, I don't need a lot of heat for what I have planned for the next few years with this set up. I would be willing to even go DIY if there is a good light option to build but I really don't see myself needing anything too wild currently

 

[Beendare]

I agree with the guys saying near the center pole. I do think a guy can put it too close to the pole....too much heat can weaken the pole...or worse with a CF pole....it could literally collapse your shelter. and burn the crap out of it. You guys that run it close....be careful.

Back when I had the SL5, we were screwing around and got that stove cherry red one snowy night with it creeping up the pipe a couple of feet. My pipe was about 4 or 5 inches from the pole. The center pole started to bow...and was hot to the touch. A damp rag and holding it straight fixed it...then moving the stove a little further away when cool. If that would have been a CF pole...it would have been big trouble.

I think 8"-10" is about right...no closer than 6" for sure. Another problem with putting it on the perimeter is less support for the stove pipe....plus not sufficient stove pipe height.

 

[jmden]

I agree with the guys saying near the center pole. I do think a guy can put it too close to the pole....too much heat can weaken the pole...or worse with a CF pole....it could literally collapse your shelter. and burn the crap out of it. You guys that run it close....be careful.

Back when I had the SL5, we were screwing around and got that stove cherry red one snowy night with it creeping up the pipe a couple of feet. My pipe was about 4 or 5 inches from the pole. The center pole started to bow...and was hot to the touch. A damp rag and holding it straight fixed it...then moving the stove a little further away when cool. If that would have been a CF pole...it would have been big trouble.

I think 8"-10" is about right...no closer than 6" for sure. Another problem with putting it on the perimeter is less support for the stove pipe....plus not sufficient stove pipe height.

The pole bends, in that situation, because the heat from the stove makes nylon 'shrink'. The opposite occurs when nylon cools. That's why, especially silnylon, gets 'floppy' and loose when it rains. It's not from the water, it's that it is cooling down, causing the nylon to 'stretch'. I've had this happen on many, many nights when running the stove hot. That's why in my shelters I chose to run aluminum poles only. I could never find a resin with a high enough temp rating that I was comfortable using carbon fiber (which is 'held' together with resin). Haven't looked at it for awhile. Maybe there's better heat resistant resin now. Point is, if you are going to fire the stove hot, you might take the pole down on inch before doing so. These shelters do require a little bit of knowledge and the proper application of same. No big deal, just makes life easier. Had poles bend, but never bust, but TipiTent was drum tight in the process!! Too tight. Have to recongize that a guy could be stressing the entire shelter beyond it's design--not good with a hot stove. Take the stress out and shorten the pole a smidge.

Problem is that the center of the tent is most efficient for heating and you alread have center pole there cutting down on usable space. I always figured since it's most efficient for heat to put the stove next to the center of the tent anyway, why not just put the stove as reasonable close to the center pole as possible, combining in one place the two things in the way of an otherwise open tent. My designs have the stove box barely an inch from the pole with this thought in mind. Has worked fine for years and creates more usable space otherwise. Just me...

 

[Napperm4]

thanks guys guess that's the main goal then! Other question kind of as a spin off but not enough of one to start another thread. What is a good small lightweight stove, I don't need a lot of heat for what I have planned for the next few years with this set up. I would be willing to even go DIY if there is a good light option to build but I really don't see myself needing anything too wild currently

I’m a huge fan of lite outdoors. Super light, large door and the upgraded titanium rods with springs on the newest models are awesome. The damper design is the best I have tested. I can get my stove cranked and glowing for a fast burn or dial it down and let it simmer for about 2.5 hours between loads.

As for stove jack placement:

I opted to put mine in a little lower than the manufacturer to allow a bit more room in my shelter without the extension tarp installed. In my tarp it worked out to 15” down from the peak. It’s also a larger than normal stove jack since I made it for myself based on what I wanted.

But like others suggest it’s enough room side to side to clear the doors and sits near one of the poles (about 8” away) I get roughly 18” of clearance from the stove to the roof and 24” to the back wall. I melted a silicon pad I set under the stove but haven’t damaged the tent itself lol.

I’ve since trimmed my pipe down a bit more than in the photos. The outside pic is a diy stove that I made but was a bit too big and hot for the shelter. Plus with the baffle or spark arrestor from lite outdoors I haven’t had any spark or ember issues even using the extra explosive pine in my hunting area.

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[Beendare]

The pole bends, in that situation, because the heat from the stove makes nylon 'shrink'. ......

Well.....if your pole is bending due to the fabric shrinking.....personally I would find a stronger pole. And yeah, I would never use a CF pole either.

I can't imagine running my tipi intentionally loose.

One thing a guy realizes about these tipis is you want them fairly tight...at least I do, YMMV. They flop around less- quieter....and you don't get spray off of them if you get a little condensation. The big deal is if its windy they can catch the wind if loose....but they shed the wind well when pitched tight.

You CAN weaken the pole with too much heat if its too close as in my example above----last thing you want on a drop camp in the Alaskan wilderness is your tipi folding down onto a hot stove.....If your pole is really close like that you can hang a little piece of shim stock as a heat shield....

 

[jmden]

The 'shrinking' and 'stretching' of nylon is just the nature of the beast, but even more pronounced with silnylon, commonly used in tipis because of how strong it is for it's weight, tear strength specifically. The silicone lets the nylon weave move/stretch more before tearing than a PU coating generally does. This is often helpful. Everybody deals with this with nylon shelters whether they realize it or not, but it's a little more pronounced with silnylon. It's pretty much impossible to keep a larger silnylon tipi shelter completely taut, from night time to day time temps, especially if there's a big temp swing. Just what it is. Pitching one super taut at night when freezing, may cause it to be too taut and stress the material too much during the day if, say, the sun is shining on the shelter. It's the same thing when you fire the stove hot at night--fabric 'shrinks' like in the sun during the say, causing poles to bend, etc. A little bend is OK. I can hang off of my heavy duty poles...probably strong enough. Just something to monitor and talk to manufacturer about. But at some point, and this is a learned/experience thing, you'll want to adjust the pole length a bit to keep from stressing the entire shelter system too much. Nothing is bombproof--houses or silnylon tipis. Have to understand the design/materials/variables and work within them. U can ususually keep a fairly taut pitch, but there's ususually some tinkering involved daily to do so. If you only come back to the shelter at night and don't see it, say, in the sun during the day, you may not realize how much the tautness changes with temp swings. I hunt all day, so pretty much only see the shelter at night, but when I have come back during a sunny day, the shelter is usually very tight. Perhaps too tight. Have spent months in these things over the years. Just my experience.

I run all my stoves boxes about an inch away from the aluminum center pole for efficiency in heating and to save space--with no issues. Many customers over the years and haven't heard any negative feedback on this issue. The location of the stovejack makes the stovepipe tilt slightly away from the pole, so there's considerably more clearance between pole and stovepipe by the time the stovepipe goes through the stovejack.

 

[Napperm4]

The 'shrinking' and 'stretching' of nylon is just the nature of the beast, but even more pronounced with silnylon, commonly used in tipis because of how strong it is for it's weight, tear strength specifically. The silicone lets the nylon weave move/stretch more before tearing than a PU coating generally does. This is often helpful. Everybody deals with this with nylon shelters whether they realize it or not, but it's a little more pronounced with silnylon. It's pretty much impossible to keep a larger silnylon tipi shelter completely taut, from night time to day time temps, especially if there's a big temp swing. Just what it is. Pitching one super taut at night when freezing, may cause it to be too taut and stress the material too much during the day if, say, the sun is shining on the shelter. It's the same thing when you fire the stove hot at night--fabric 'shrinks' like in the sun during the say, causing poles to bend, etc. A little bend is OK. I can hang off of my heavy duty poles...probably strong enough. Just something to monitor and talk to manufacturer about. But at some point, and this is a learned/experience thing, you'll want to adjust the pole length a bit to keep from stressing the entire shelter system too much. Nothing is bombproof--houses or silnylon tipis. Have to understand the design/materials/variables and work within them. U can ususually keep a fairly taut pitch, but there's ususually some tinkering involved daily to do so. If you only come back to the shelter at night and don't see it, say, in the sun during the day, you may not realize how much the tautness changes with temp swings. I hunt all day, so pretty much only see the shelter at night, but when I have come back during a sunny day, the shelter is usually very tight. Perhaps too tight. Have spent months in these things over the years. Just my experience.

I run all my stoves boxes about an inch away from the aluminum center pole for efficiency in heating and to save space--with no issues. Many customers over the years and haven't heard any negative feedback on this issue. The location of the stovejack makes the stovepipe tilt slightly away from the pole, so there's considerably more clearance between pole and stovepipe by the time the stovepipe goes through the stovejack.

Not to hijack or change trajectory on the stove thread but anyone tried this technique for alleviating tension through the day / night?

I may have a go once the few feet of snow clears up.


DIY Self-Tensioning Guylines


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[amp713]

I’m a huge fan of lite outdoors. Super light, large door and the upgraded titanium rods with springs on the newest models are awesome. The damper design is the best I have tested. I can get my stove cranked and glowing for a fast burn or dial it down and let it simmer for about 2.5 hours between loads.

As for stove jack placement:

I opted to put mine in a little lower than the manufacturer to allow a bit more room in my shelter without the extension tarp installed. In my tarp it worked out to 15” down from the peak. It’s also a larger than normal stove jack since I made it for myself based on what I wanted.

But like others suggest it’s enough room side to side to clear the doors and sits near one of the poles (about 8” away) I get roughly 18” of clearance from the stove to the roof and 24” to the back wall. I melted a silicon pad I set under the stove but haven’t damaged the tent itself lol.

I’ve since trimmed my pipe down a bit more than in the photos. The outside pic is a diy stove that I made but was a bit too big and hot for the shelter. Plus with the baffle or spark arrestor from lite outdoors I haven’t had any spark or ember issues even using the extra explosive pine in my hunting area.

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How big is that tipi you have pictured??

 

[Napperm4]

How big is that tipi you have pictured??

Depends on the day. Seekoutside LBO. It’s a modular system. I have 2 bases, 3 piece vestibule, joining tarp and a nest.

The pics of the outside in my garage are the base & Vestibule.

The interior pic is base/tarp/vestibule.

https://seekoutside.com/little-bug-out-shelter




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[Beendare]

Not to hijack or change trajectory on the stove thread but anyone tried this technique for alleviating tension through the day / night?

DIY Self-Tensioning Guylines

They might work...I dunno. I crank mine down pretty tight....probably stretch too much for me....especially in extreme wind like Kodiak.

Sure sil nylon shrinks and expands- a given. Design makes a difference. I can get mine pretty tight with the 13 doubled over seams- 12 panels- and the 1.6oz sil poly to where It doesn't shrink much.

Larger panels of course would have more of a problem with shrinking.

 

[reaper]

I’m a huge fan of lite outdoors. Super light, large door and the upgraded titanium rods with springs on the newest models are awesome. The damper design is the best I have tested. I can get my stove cranked and glowing for a fast burn or dial it down and let it simmer for about 2.5 hours between loads.

As for stove jack placement:

I opted to put mine in a little lower than the manufacturer to allow a bit more room in my shelter without the extension tarp installed. In my tarp it worked out to 15” down from the peak. It’s also a larger than normal stove jack since I made it for myself based on what I wanted.

But like others suggest it’s enough room side to side to clear the doors and sits near one of the poles (about 8” away) I get roughly 18” of clearance from the stove to the roof and 24” to the back wall. I melted a silicon pad I set under the stove but haven’t damaged the tent itself lol.

I’ve since trimmed my pipe down a bit more than in the photos. The outside pic is a diy stove that I made but was a bit too big and hot for the shelter. Plus with the baffle or spark arrestor from lite outdoors I haven’t had any spark or ember issues even using the extra explosive pine in my hunting area.

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Is that the shelter i sold you this summer?You changed my stove jack?On pictures it looks like mine!!

 

[Napperm4]

Is that the shelter i sold you this summer?You changed my stove jack?On pictures it looks like mine!!

It’s 2 different shelters. The pictures with the measuring tape is the one you did. Haha no changes made. I already had a base/vestibule when I bought yours. I kept the tarp and nest and sold your base and vestibule to my brother.

The pictures in the garage and the set up are the ones I had from before.

I used your measurements and changed it up a bit when I put my stove jack in.


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[reaper]

It’s 2 different shelters. The pictures with the measuring tape is the one you did. Haha no changes made. I already had a base/vestibule when I bought yours. I kept the tarp and nest and sold your base and vestibule to my brother.

The pictures in the garage and the set up are the ones I had from before.

I used your measurements and changed it up a bit when I put my stove jack in.


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Nice,i was thinking you dint liked the stove jack and sewed a new one haha!!

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