Savage LWH ammo recommendations

[ianpadron]

Any recommendations on what to feed my Savage LWH in 6.5 Creedmoor???

I've tried both Hornady 120 grain GMXs and 129 grain SSTs (Superformance) and couldn't manage anything less than 3" at 100 yds.

Looking for advice before blowing $30 on more ammo that doesn't group.


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[LightFoot]

Lots of folks are having success with Hornady Precision Hunter 143 great ELD-X, myself included. Lots of mfr are on the 6.5 train, so you should have lots of options.

Personally, I would try Barnes, Browning, or the new Berger factory ammo next. If you are willing to spend >$50 box, the Swift ammo may be a good choice.

Good luck finding the right load.

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[JeffRaines]

I had a LWH in 270 a year or so ago. Swift ammo shot the best in it - actually that’s all I ever used in it. I shot a few groups and they were all under a half inch. Called it good after that.

 

[hodgeman]

Try some ammo at a heavier weight- ie. 140, 143, 147s.

My rifles really like the Precision Hunter 143 ELDX and Nosler Ballistic Tip 140s.

 

[ianpadron]

Thanks guys, I'll give the heavier weights a try. Was planning on the ELD-X next, so good to hear that one come up.

Anyone have any experience with the new Barnes VOR-TX 127 grain LRX?

 

[skaldugwas]

If you aren’t alread, give the barrel plenty of time to cool down between shots or atleast groups. I’m finding these light weight guns can be ridiculously heat sensitive. Sometimes it only takes a couple shots in succession for the group to look more like a pattern.

 

[ianpadron]

Oh for sure, the barrel is piping hot after a three-round group, or in this case, three-round pattern lol

I let it cool a few minutes between shots

If you aren’t alread, give the barrel plenty of time to cool down between shots or atleast groups. I’m finding these light weight guns can be ridiculously heat sensitive. Sometimes it only takes a couple shots in succession for the group to look more like a pattern.

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[Wapiti1]

3" is outside the norm even ammo a rifle doesn't like, IME. Have you checked the action screws, scope mount, and ring screws? On a Savage, the back action screw should not be super tight. The way they are designed, it is easy to warp the action by tightening the rear screw too tight. Just snug at about 35 inch pounds. There should be clearance between the rear tang and the stock. Tighten the front screw all you want.

I've not had a rifle group that poorly without finding something mechanically wrong with it.

Jeremy

 

[ianpadron]

That's good info about the action screw Jeremy. I did have the rifle apart last year when I repainted the stock, I will check the torque setting.

Going to sling some 143s through first and if those don't group I'll move on to the action screws.

3" is outside the norm even ammo a rifle doesn't like, IME. Have you checked the action screws, scope mount, and ring screws? On a Savage, the back action screw should not be super tight. The way they are designed, it is easy to warp the action by tightening the rear screw too tight. Just snug at about 35 inch pounds. There should be clearance between the rear tang and the stock. Tighten the front screw all you want.

I've not had a rifle group that poorly without finding something mechanically wrong with it.

Jeremy

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[Titan_Bow]

I picked up one these guns last year in 6.5 as well. I have been having a hard time getting it to shoot all that good as well. Last week I skim bedded the stock in JB weld, and my little boy and I took it out today to shoot. It definitely shot alot better, but all I could muster shooting prone of my backpack was 1.5" groups at 100. Really makes me not feel confident in this gun at anything more than a 150-200 yard shot. I am wondering if its just the "nature of the beast" with such a lightweight rifle? My other Savage, a 270WSM, is a veritable laser gun! It weighs 9.5 lbs though. But it will consistently shoot well under an inch at 100, prone off my backpack.
To your original question, while I am not having wonderful accuracy, I've had the best with the 143 Precision Hunter ammo as well as the Winchester Expedition Long Range, with the 140gr Accubond LRs. Both were giving about 1.5" groups at 100 today.

 

[ianpadron]

I picked up one these guns last year in 6.5 as well. I have been having a hard time getting it to shoot all that good as well. Last week I skim bedded the stock in JB weld, and my little boy and I took it out today to shoot. It definitely shot alot better, but all I could muster shooting prone of my backpack was 1.5" groups at 100. Really makes me not feel confident in this gun at anything more than a 150-200 yard shot. I am wondering if its just the "nature of the beast" with such a lightweight rifle? My other Savage, a 270WSM, is a veritable laser gun! It weighs 9.5 lbs though. But it will consistently shoot well under an inch at 100, prone off my backpack.
To your original question, while I am not having wonderful accuracy, I've had the best with the 143 Precision Hunter ammo as well as the Winchester Expedition Long Range, with the 140gr Accubond LRs. Both were giving about 1.5" groups at 100 today.

I thought maybe it was the weight of the rifle as well until I followed up with my Tikka and shot 2 178grain ELD-X into the same hole.

I will check out the 143 grainers for sure and report back! Do you know what your action screws are torqued at?

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[Titan_Bow]

I thought maybe it was the weight of the rifle as well until I followed up with my Tikka and shot 2 178grain ELD-X into the same hole.

I will check out the 143 grainers for sure and report back! Do you know what your action screws are torqued at?

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When I put it together last week after skim bedding it and painting the stock, I torqued to 36-37lbs on the front and 35lbs on the rear.

 

[Apollo117]

Is this the model 16 or the model 11 LWH?

 

[ianpadron]

16

Is this the model 16 or the model 11 LWH?

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[Apollo117]

I've got the model 16 LWH chambered in .308. I've tried 9 different bullets and two powders to try to get it to shoot consistently.

What's weird is when I first got the gun it shot 3/4 MOA groups. Now it's close to 1.5 MOA after less than 200 rounds.

I'd like to blame it on my shooting skills, or the light weight of the gun, but I have no problem shooting my Tikka T3 Superlite .270 Win into less than 3/4 MOA.

I'm beginning to think I have a mount/ring or scope issue. Very soon I'll be swapping scopes to verify.

My old man has the model 11 LWH in .223 and it shoots little clover leaves at 100 yards. I'm beginning to think the stock on my model 16 may be causing some inaccuracy. If the old man will let me borrow his model 11 stock for a bit I can verify if the plastic stock is causing my issues. I know the magazines aren't interchangeable, but I can single feed it just to verify accuracy.

Another thing I've noticed with these thin barrels is that two shot groups are better than 3. This goes against conventional shooting practice, but I think the barrel gets so hot by the 3rd shot it's just a waste and adds wear to the barrel. I usually shoot two shots, let the barrel cool and then shoot another two. I find my groups are much smaller if I shoot this way instead of shooting 3 shot groups.

I'm not giving up on this model 16 LWH though. I know it'll shoot close to MOA consistently. I just have to find the right reload and maybe replace the stock with a model 11 LWH stock.

 

[Apollo117]

Forgot to mention, Savage's tend to shoot better with a dirty barrel. I try not to clean my barrel often. I don't like running it dirty and storing it dirty. Several other Savage owners experience the same thing.

 

[Titan_Bow]

I've got the model 16 LWH chambered in .308. I've tried 9 different bullets and two powders to try to get it to shoot consistently.

What's weird is when I first got the gun it shot 3/4 MOA groups. Now it's close to 1.5 MOA after less than 200 rounds.

I'd like to blame it on my shooting skills, or the light weight of the gun, but I have no problem shooting my Tikka T3 Superlite .270 Win into less than 3/4 MOA.

I'm beginning to think I have a mount/ring or scope issue. Very soon I'll be swapping scopes to verify.

My old man has the model 11 LWH in .223 and it shoots little clover leaves at 100 yards. I'm beginning to think the stock on my model 16 may be causing some inaccuracy. If the old man will let me borrow his model 11 stock for a bit I can verify if the plastic stock is causing my issues. I know the magazines aren't interchangeable, but I can single feed it just to verify accuracy.

Another thing I've noticed with these thin barrels is that two shot groups are better than 3. This goes against conventional shooting practice, but I think the barrel gets so hot by the 3rd shot it's just a waste and adds wear to the barrel. I usually shoot two shots, let the barrel cool and then shoot another two. I find my groups are much smaller if I shoot this way instead of shooting 3 shot groups.

I'm not giving up on this model 16 LWH though. I know it'll shoot close to MOA consistently. I just have to find the right reload and maybe replace the stock with a model 11 LWH stock.

I too feel like the cheap plastic stock is where the problem lies. Scouring forums and internet articles/posts, theres lots of satisfied people with the wood stock LWH, but does seem like lots of similar stories with the plastic stock and inaccuracy. I thought skim bedding the action would help, and it did, so now maybe I just need to spend more time finding a load it likes. Like I said, we were getting about 1.5" this morning with it.

 

[Apollo117]

Do you have any pictures of your skim bedding job with the plastic stock? I've been wanting to skim bed mine and I'd like to see the after result. Did you build "dams" to hold the bedding material in place? The plastic stock doesn't look like it will hold the bedding material in place very well.

If I mess up the bedding job, big deal. I'm already planning to replace the plastic stock with a wooden stock. However, if it works then I got some practice bedding a stock and a better shooting gun.

Do you have access to a front and rear sand bag? When shooting for groups I like the most solid rest I can use.

 

[Titan_Bow]

Do you have any pictures of your skim bedding job with the plastic stock? I've been wanting to skim bed mine and I'd like to see the after result. Did you build "dams" to hold the bedding material in place? The plastic stock doesn't look like it will hold the bedding material in place very well.

If I mess up the bedding job, big deal. I'm already planning to replace the plastic stock with a wooden stock. However, if it works then I got some practice bedding a stock and a better shooting gun.

Do you have access to a front and rear sand bag? When shooting for groups I like the most solid rest I can use.

I didnt take any pics, I am by no means an expert or a gunsmith, I just followed online tutorials on how to do it. I used clear shoe polish as a release agent and regular JB weld. I scuffed up the plastic with my dremel, and filled in the mag well and in front of the recoil lug in the stock, and around the trigger with my kids playdo. You really only have a little bit of JB weld, where the recoil lug sits, then where the 2 actions screws are. It was kind of scary at first, as if you dont get release agent on EVERYTHING, the JB Weld will stick to it. I was super careful to not let anything get into the action. Also make sure to coat the action screws with release agent really really well.

 

[RCB]

I bought a .308 Savage 11 Trophy Hunter around last Christmas. That's a 22 inch barrel, synthetic stock. I also had to search a bit for good factory ammo. I'm not sure that this will generalize to your rifle, but I've found that Federal Premium ammo shoots consistently well for me. Note that I said Federal Premium, not just Federal. So Fusion doesn't count, etc. Unfortunately there are fewer loads for 6.5 CM than for .308 in this group. Looks like they've got an Accubond in 140 gr and a Trophy Copper in 120 gr. (Both of these bullets shot well out of my gun.) If I were you, I'd try one of those next.