.300 Winmag round for Tikka T3

[16Bore]

I couldn't get past that part, either.
How mAny people have tested bullet performance at that range?
Do the elk a favor and HUNT your way into a reasonable shot.
Let the flames begin!

It's like a race car driver asking what kinda gas to use.

Tapping out, all you....

 

[TwoTikkas]

I've been thinking about a Tikka in 300 Win mag. Based on the abundance of brass and bullets around the loading bench. At any rate. Do you all have any problem with the mag length? Long bullets and slow powders? Just curious before jumping in.

 

[GKPrice]

I couldn't get past that part, either.
How mAny people have tested bullet performance at that range?
Do the elk a favor and HUNT your way into a reasonable shot.
Let the flames begin!

sometimes ......the truth just HURTS

 

[excaliber]

It's hard to beat the 180 Gr Nosler Accubond behind 75 gr of RL22. I've yet to see a 300 Win Mag that does not like this load.

 

[Zoo Keeper]

It's hard to beat the 180 Gr Nosler Accubond behind 75 gr of RL22. I've yet to see a 300 Win Mag that does not like this load.

That's the combo I run in my T3x...worked up to it pretty quick & called it a day.


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[USPcompact]

I've been thinking about a Tikka in 300 Win mag. Based on the abundance of brass and bullets around the loading bench. At any rate. Do you all have any problem with the mag length? Long bullets and slow powders? Just curious before jumping in.

From having looked at the same issue (but not having owned a T3 in .300 WM) it's seems it's typically not possible to get near the lands if feeding from a magazine, either the stock mag or an AICS pattern mag, due to the design of the receiver.

I know that MDT makes an AICS pattern mag specifically for the T3 that's longer than an AICS short action mag but not as long as either of the other two long action mags, but I'm not certain if this would allow enough COAL to get to the lands or not, and I'm assuming this mag will only work in an MDT stock or chassis.

7 Rem Mag does not share this issue.

How much all that matters is up to the buyer. As a reloader, it does give me some pause as I like to run somewhat close (.050" or thereabouts) to the lands for a variety of reasons, but I also know that .300 WM is typically an easy cartridge to load for.

Again, note that this is just my understanding of the situation, and it may be incorrect since I don't own one and I'm going solely off of what info I can find. I've got a couple of T3's and wouldn't mind having one in a 30 caliber magnum of some variety.

 

[TwoTikkas]

Thanks guys. My main concern is long bullets and slow powders. There sure is a bunch of bullet down in the case body. Had a 300 wsm t3. It turned out to be a very fussy round to load for. Even in the t3. 300 Win mags I've had in years gone by have all been easy to dial in. I bet the Tikka would be another. It's more of a case capacity question for me.

 

[USPcompact]

Thanks guys. My main concern is long bullets and slow powders. There sure is a bunch of bullet down in the case body. Had a 300 wsm t3. It turned out to be a very fussy round to load for. Even in the t3. 300 Win mags I've had in years gone by have all been easy to dial in. I bet the Tikka would be another. It's more of a case capacity question for me.

As you know, COAL is directly related to that. The further out you can get the bullet the more capacity is available in the case. As weight and BC increase, bullet length also increases. A heavy, high-BC bullet that can't be pushed close to the lands will take up more case capacity when compared to a lighter, lower BC bullet. It's all dependent on what projectile you want to use and what powder you prefer.

I'm surprised you found the 300 WSM to be fussy. I always thought it was relatively easy to find a good load, and really not any more difficult than finding a good load for a .300 win mag.

 

[aclawrence]

Since all the Tikkas are long action receivers could you go with the 300 WSM and get the bullet close to the lands with the aftermarket magazine?

I've kind of had my mind set on a Tikka 300win mag. Are there any light weight factory rifles that you can shoot the 215 Bergers out of?

 

[GKPrice]

the length of the Tikka magazine is not problematic IME - in today's world there are plenty of powders of different burn rates and densities to accommodate case capacities - as far as getting to the lands, as long as you seat your bullet straight there shouldn't be a problem there either -
Think "21st century" .....

 

[USPcompact]

Since all the Tikkas are long action receivers could you go with the 300 WSM and get the bullet close to the lands with the aftermarket magazine?

I've kind of had my mind set on a Tikka 300win mag. Are there any light weight factory rifles that you can shoot the 215 Bergers out of?

Yes.

You need to either modify the existing bolt stop or swap in a new one intended for a long action caliber and also remove some material from the back of the factory magazine. I have read that the magazines for .300 Win Mag will work fine with WSM cases without any modifications, but I have not personally tried this.

Here's a link explaining the bolt stop process: http://www.rokslide.com/forums/firearms/16909-tikka-bolt-stop-mod.html

If you intend to shoot >200 grain bullets, be aware that the the barrel is a 1:11" for both the .300 WSM and .300 Win Mag. I would much prefer a 1:10" twist if I wanted to shoot heavy bullets at long range.

 

[USPcompact]

the length of the Tikka magazine is not problematic IME - in today's world there are plenty of powders of different burn rates and densities to accommodate case capacities - as far as getting to the lands, as long as you seat your bullet straight there shouldn't be a problem there either -
Think "21st century" .....

It's certainly not "problematic" in any real sense, but it's certainly far from ideal.

Regarding seating closer to the lands, there are many benefits and few downsides. When working up a load I generally start with a jump of .040”. After finding an accurate node I'll then seat both closer (.010" jump) and further (.070" jump) and see if either produces a tighter group.

I'm well aware that concentric ammo reduces group size, but I'm of the assumption that ALL reloaded ammo intended for precision work (for paper targets, for hunting, etc.) has as little runout as possible. The 21st Century Reloading concentricity gauge is the best tool I've used for indicating runout. It's not cheap, but if mine disappeared tonight I'd have one ordered in the morning.

Loading close to the lands offers more benefits than just precision. In my experience, SD typically decreases and velocities typically increase given equivalent powder charges. In addition, seating a bullet further out in a case allows for more powder or prevents a load from being compacted. As long as you stay within pressure limits and within an accuracy node, these are good things.

The way I see it, it's not so much about the problems caused by jumping a great amount (say anything over .090") so much as it is what's given up by not being able to get a bullet close.

And again, this is all subjective. What matters to me likely won't mean a hill of beans to someone else.

 

[GKPrice]

It's certainly not "problematic" in any real sense, but it's certainly far from ideal.

Regarding seating closer to the lands, there are many benefits and few downsides. When working up a load I generally start with a jump of .040”. After finding an accurate node I'll then seat both closer (.010" jump) and further (.070" jump) and see if either produces a tighter group.

I'm well aware that concentric ammo reduces group size, but I'm of the assumption that ALL reloaded ammo intended for precision work (for paper targets, for hunting, etc.) has as little runout as possible. The 21st Century Reloading concentricity gauge is the best tool I've used for indicating runout. It's not cheap, but if mine disappeared tonight I'd have one ordered in the morning.

Loading close to the lands offers more benefits than just precision. In my experience, SD typically decreases and velocities typically increase given equivalent powder charges. In addition, seating a bullet further out in a case allows for more powder or prevents a load from being compacted. As long as you stay within pressure limits and within an accuracy node, these are good things.

The way I see it, it's not so much about the problems caused by jumping a great amount (say anything over .090") so much as it is what's given up by not being able to get a bullet close.

And again, this is all subjective. What matters to me likely won't mean a hill of beans to someone else.

It sounds like you have your mind very made up. Good luck to you

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[USPcompact]

It sounds like you have your mind very made up. Good luck to you

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There are a select few things where my mind is "very made up." A closed mind is very often not as full as it might seem.

By the same token, may you consider the information in the spirit it was delivered. At the end of the day, if your way works best for you and my way works best for me, then I guess we're both happy.

Like I said earlier, what matters to me likely won't mean a hill of beans to someone else.

 

[HOT ROD]

The tikka 1:11 barrel will stabilize 200 grain bullets. These are 210 bergers..... Shot not in the clip... But the 200 grain accubond and bergers in the clip just as well

 

[aclawrence]

Nice shooting Hot Rod.

 

[USPcompact]

The tikka 1:11 barrel will stabilize 200 grain bullets. These are 210 bergers..... Shot not in the clip... But the 200 grain accubond and bergers in the clip just as well

Banging steel is always a good time. The first time I took my wife (then my girlfriend) to the range to shoot steel she didn't stop grinning for two days.

Generally speaking, a 1:10" twist is preferred when shooting the heavy .30 caliber bullets. That's not to say that a 1:11" twist wil not work, but if starting from zero my preference would absolutely be at least a 1:10" twist (if not 1:9.4" or 1:9").

Here's a good link to check stability: Twist Rate Stability Calculator | Berger Bullets

In my situation, being at 200' MSL I need to be able to spin a bullet faster (have a faster twist) to keep it stable. Someone at a higher altitude can get away with a slower twist because of the decreased DA.

Here's a concise link explaining it better than I can: http://riflebarrels.com/effects-of-altitude-and-temperature-on-rifling-twist/

As I said earlier, what matters to me may not matter to someone else.

 

[awaldro7]

800 yards is a long way to sling lead at an Elk. I know I couldn't do it in the field.

 

[HOT ROD]

USPcompact I absolutely agree with U... If the tikka was at least 1:10. And if U could get at least 10 thousands of the lands. Out of the clip... The tikka would be very hard to beat... Would be nice to have a 26 inch tube to...

 

[GKPrice]

USPcompact I absolutely agree with U... If the tikka was at least 1:10. And if U could get at least 10 thousands of the lands. Out of the clip... The tikka would be very hard to beat... Would be nice to have a 26 inch tube to...

Tikka rifles are hard to beat right now ....