Help me rescope and reload for Christensen Arms Summit Ti.

luke moffat

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No worries Robby!! I was thinking something exactly like what dotman posted. All you gotta do is add it on to the scope tube. You don't have to remove he scope rings or re level or anything. Lightweight and effective and inexpensive and only a 5 minute install seems like cheap insurance ;)
 
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One issue will be getting my scope level. In the past, I've just eyeballed it using a small bubble level, but never completely sure my action was level. Most guys cringe at the thought of eyeballing a scope to level but if you're not long range hunting it doesn't matter (much).

I have noticed though as I push beyond 400 yards that I'm often left or right of the bull's-eye (independent of the wind) and I attribute that to not having a level scope.

Xtreme Hard Core Gear offers a great system but it won't fit the Christensen action. The Tank scope plumb machined from solid steel billet

What do you guys recommend for mounting the scope level?


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Here's how I level my scopes and reticle:

DIY Rifle Scope Leveling the Easy Way: Flashlight Method - YouTube

DIY Rifle Scope Leveling the Easy Way: Flashlight Method - YouTube


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A guy is never too old to learn. I've been eyeballing scopes to level all these years and like I said before, it gets you close enough for 400 yards, but as I've been shooting further with these hashmarks, I have noticed I'm often left or right more than the wind can account for.

Mike Moad at Sportsmans leveled the scope to the action but also showed me some simple tricks to do it myself.

3ebe9d409810310401cb7ba33cba1d94.jpg
With the two-piece picatinny, there are two flat spots where you can easily get a level on there.

So when I got back home, I put two small levels on the gun. Mike got it close but now that I understand how simple the process is, I loosened the rings and did some fine-tuning on it. She's really level now.
2a61d1d7a810be7c206004b283648429.jpg


I also learned by trial and error that how you torque down your ring can affect your level. These Tallys have four screws per ring and I found I had to tighten in 1/4 turns from screw to screw back ring then front ring until I got them tight to keep it level. If I didn't pay attention to it, I would end up off about a 32nd of a bubble. Not much but it did show me that it matters how you torque them down.

I'm sure a bunch of you guys already know this stuff, but this is all hi- precision work for this deer hunter.

N2Turkeys, thanks for chiming in, I did see that Sportsmans had that Wheeler level system there. But I think I'll shoot the gun out to 600 and if it looks good I'll probably just go this route. If not, I know that's out there now and could step up to it. Thank you

Next step is to follow Hells Canyons instructions on COAL with my new gauge he made me and work up some loads. Then the range work begins.


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Do not trust the tops of the turret caps or idiots at Sportsmans to level your reticle!!!


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Steve O

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Dan,

What do you suggest in lieu of the turret caps? A plumb line? The uncapped turret itself?
 
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Dan,

What do you suggest in lieu of the turret caps? A plumb line? The uncapped turret itself?

Go back and and read my response on post #49. Plumb bob and scope mounted level... I have machinist levels in my shop and can tell you scope caps are fairly consistent, and good enough to start out level with, double checking with a plumb bob is the best method though. Especially since everyone holds their rifle differently.

Mike


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Steve O

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Thanks Mike. Also too a look at the video posted above that I missed earlier about the flashlight method. All pretty interesting!
 
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robby denning

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Hey guys all this advice is great, but I asked 2 1/2 weeks ago for help on the level and I didn't hear from anybody except Mike so I went the route I did. I should have used Mikes method but it is what it is now. I'm already behind on this. Thanks for chiming in though. I really appreciate it and have some better ideas for my next scope mount. Would really like to get to the range and when I start shooting 400-600 yards, if I'm left or right independent of the wind, we'll go back and start over on the scope level. Thanks


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robby denning

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Hey guys, I haven't forgot about this project, and was part of the reason I want to be done by July 15 because I've been in the hills way too much since then. Hoping to get back to the reloading bench and get this rolling again.


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mtnwrunner

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Hey guys, I haven't forgot about this project, and was part of the reason I want to be done by July 15 because I've been in the hills way too much since then. Hoping to get back to the reloading bench and get this rolling again.


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Dude! Get on it! Season is just right around the corner.........:p

Randy
 
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robby denning

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Dude! Get on it! Season is just right around the corner.........:p

Randy

Workin' on it bro'!

Truth be told if I had to choose between scouting & hunting with a open-sighted 30.30 or no scouting but have this CA done, I'd be the new 30.30 guy!
 
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Dan,

What do you suggest in lieu of the turret caps? A plumb line? The uncapped turret itself?

Sorry I didn't see this question until now. You can use the underside of the scope below the turret but the best and most accurate way is to use the reticle itself. See the video I posted above using a flashlight. You can tape up a piece of paper on the wall and use a 4" level or plum bob to draw a line.


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robby denning

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I'm back. I get really busy with scouting from mid-July to late August and why I was hoping to have this project done before then...best of intentions. Anyway, I'm archery hunting a good buck now and have some time to burn in the afternoons so I got a video edited on where the gun stands as of mid-August on the one day I could get out. I just sighted the new scope to the rifle with my previous load- 63.5gr R19 behind a Berger Classic Hunter 130, the load I hope to improve on according to the suggestions made earlier in the thread.

As soon as archery wraps up, I'll load the 140 Classic Hunters with the two powders you guys suggested. Here is where the gun's shooting now with the new Vortex. This scope is really a step above the Viper and Diamondback lines and the CA seems to like it. I'm under 7.5 pounds.

[video=youtube_share;dIgjIrKp5Jc]https://youtu.be/dIgjIrKp5Jc[/video]

This has to be done by early October as that is when I need the gun
 
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robby denning

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OK I'm back, I just used Hells Canyon gauge that he made me, and I came up with these three measurements.
1f11757e33c496d18d8b2d3c9bea8c21.jpg

If I'm reading my gauge right, that puts me at an avg COAL of 2.8487

I suspect I'm doing something wrong, because here is my previous actual load that is not touching the lands:
dd6ca3866fc31daf39a485dc03874b91.jpg


So it's 2.864 or 0.0153 longer than what I just measured using the COAL gauge?

This is why I started this thread, because I'm not the sharpest tool in the garage.

Waiting for Mike to chime in. He's on his pre-honeymoon so it could be a while ha ha


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mcr-85

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Your previous load was a different bullet correct? Try using your gauge and your old bullet and see what you come up with. I think the ogive will be in different places with 2 different bullets.

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robby denning

robby denning

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Your previous load was a different bullet correct? Try using your gauge and your old bullet and see what you come up with. I think the ogive will be in different places with 2 different bullets.

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Yes. Just got off the phone with Mike and that's what he said. I didn't realize I needed a Comparator gauge to do this right. Headed to Sportsmans right now.


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N2TRKYS

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I only do COAL. I don't measure to the ogive and have never seen a reason to. I can get a better measurement that way verses to the ogive. But, like you stated, I'm not the sharpest, either. Lol
 
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