Tikka T3 Lite .300WM lightweight build weight questions

[jdk81]

I'm building a lightweight Elk/Deer/etc rifle. Playing with some numbers on weight and wanted to bounce a few ideas off of you guys here. Going to upgrade quite a few parts on the rifle, and try to stay about as light as I can whilst boosting accuracy and, of course, aesthetics. Can't disagree with a gorgeous rifle!

I am building off of a Tikka T3 lite stainless in .300WM.

-Will be having the barrel and bolt fluted in helical pattern.
-Mountain Tactical bolt shroud
-McMillan Hunters Edge Stock
-Mountain Tactical picatinny rail
-Vortex precision matched rings / leupold PRW
-Vortex Razor HD LH 2-10x40


That is a basic list of what I am looking at. Does anyone know the weight of the Luepold PRW rings? The vortex are 2.8oz for the set. Is there a better rail that anyone would recommend? The Mountain Tactical seems to be the best for the magnum because it utilizes the 'recoil lug' of sorts. The Vortex optic because I want a 40mm objective, I love the company, and the 3 oz in that department don't terribly concern me, my close second place pick would be the Swaro z3 series.

Cerakote... Does anyone have any idea of a rough estimate what a cerakote job would weigh on a barreled action? 2-3 oz? Considering that option as well, but once again want to stay fairly light in certain departments.

Here are approximate weights that I am assuming (having trouble recalling each and every source):

Tikka T3 - 6# 6oz - tikka website
Rings - 2.8oz - vortex website
Scope - 15.4oz - vortex website
Rail - UNKNOWN weight ----- does anyone know or can verify easily?
Bolt Shroud - Honestly no clue, figure a 1 oz gain?

Total would amount to: 121.2 OZ / 7# 9.2oz

Weight loss options:

McMillan would save approx. 6oz
Fluting bolt - 1oz
Fluting barrel - approximately 9oz, depending on exactly what pitch and flute i choose to go with and how deep the flutes can go on that specific barrel

All in all 6# 9oz approximate finished weight ready to hunt, unloaded. What do you guys think about that build? Does anything sound terribly off, am I missing anything that most Tikka builds include? This will be my first Tikka. Back to the Cerekote question, it will look wicked cerekoted gunmetal grey or similar, and be more weather resistant. I would do that if I could stay under 7#, what do you guys think on that?


I will of course update with pictures as this becomes reality over the next few months..

 

[scott]

Maybe just shoot it the way it is first. If you like it put that the build money towards a cool hunt.

 

[Decker9]

I'm not sure what the McMillan weighs, another stock company to look at for weight savings, is wildcat composites. I just finished one for my t3 6.5, finished at 19oz after bedding, paint and a flip flop pad. Worth a look.

Cheers.

 

[jdk81]

Definitely worth a look, they say the McMillan is 22-26oz depending on the specific action cutout.

Yep, I will for sure shoot it some first and see how it plays out. Total cost of gunsmithing work is around $200, so that's minimal in my eyes for the aesthetic and weight benefits. Now, the stock may be a slower process of adding for sure. That $650 or so could buy a nice tag or two somewhere!

I am hoping this will be a thread where people can post up their opinions and their experiences with these rifles. Could be an awesome build thread!

Let's see those pictures!!!

 

[JollyRoger]

Mountain Tactical rail for my Tikka was quoted at 3oz from them. Also, I could have sworn my Vortex Precision Match rings were closer to 5oz for the set... would have to double check

 

[Ndbowhunter]

Rail is 3.2 oz if memory serves

Rings will be ~5 oz

Edge stock will push 27oz finished

Fluting won't lose 9 oz on a factory barrel. Factory superlite has as big of flutes you'll find and they save 6.5 oz or so on a 300

Pimping a 300 tikka is like dumping a small block in a Miata. It's already light, now make it driveable.

 

[durangobrad]

Rail is 3.2 oz if memory serves

Rings will be ~5 oz

Edge stock will push 27oz finished

Fluting won't lose 9 oz on a factory barrel. Factory superlite has as big of flutes you'll find and they save 6.5 oz or so on a 300

Pimping a 300 tikka is like dumping a small block in a Miata. It's already light, now make it driveable.

I more or less agree with this, except I dont think if the Tikka as a Miata..... They are great rifles at a great price, Miatas, well lets not go there.

 

[jdk81]

Lol very good points there! 27oz finished, I assume that's bedded? 3oz sounds about right for the rail. Seems odd the vortex would be that much heavier than quoted on their website. Tomato, tomato I know. Any idea if the PRW's are lighter?

The flutes are quoted from a couple different gunsmith companies estimations, I'll have to contact them and get specific numbers they've gotten on those specific barrels

If you had to choose something to 'pimp up' what would be your better choice for a finished pimp job for $1500??

 

[robtattoo]

Personally, I'd save the money you'd spend on fluting the bolt & barrel, put that with the money you've set aside for the McMillan stock & take a long, hard look at a Brown's Precision Pound'r stock. All up it weighs in at, surprisingly, 16oz
They're amazingly stiff & feel awesome in the hand.
That'll drop you more weight than anything else could, other than a lighter scope.

On that note, unless you're absolutely dead set on the Razor, maybe look into one of the lighter Leopold jobs. I'm a Vortex fan thru & thru, but my lightweight guns all wear Leopold VX2 2-7s In my experience, 7 or 8x is plenty for hunting distances on deer sized game (haven't pointed one at an elk yet!) & it saves 6+ oz over the Vortex.

 

[jdk81]

Definitely something I'll have to look into and weigh the pros and cons of each item and decide where I want to take it. Those suckers are real pricey as well! Looks like 1k+ for the pounder option? Honestly for the 6-10 Oz savings I'm not sure I'd want to spend close to double the edge.

I suppose to be honest with myself, the fluting is more for the aesthetics of the rifle with the weight savings being secondary. I just don't really like the fluting on the superlite model. I could cut 2oz on the scope if I chose the 2-8x32 model, I'm just slightly worried about having the smaller objective for light transmission in low light scenarios.. is that going to play a role or mostly unnoticed?


Also, more honest than anything, I'm not looking to build the absolute lightest tikka, just looking to build an awesome mountain gun with weight, accuracy, and asthetics being my main concerns.

 

[Yellowknife]

Agreed with others that fluting won't loose that much. Particularly on the bolt, where it will be a fraction of an oz.

For a data point, my regular Tikka '06 with a Wildcat stock comes in at 5.75 lbs. Talleys and a 15.5 oz scope and I'm at 6.9 lbs. Can't imagine wanting lighter than that with a .300 unless you add a brake.

The Wildcat stock came in at 22.5 oz with a relatively heavy (4 oz) limbsaver pad on it. Similar goals... I was just looking for an all purpose mountain gun, and +/- 7 lbs is a good weight for that.

 

[jdk81]

Agreed with others that fluting won't loose that much. Particularly on the bolt, where it will be a fraction of an oz.

For a data point, my regular Tikka '06 with a Wildcat stock comes in at 5.75 lbs. Talleys and a 15.5 oz scope and I'm at 6.9 lbs. Can't imagine wanting lighter than that with a .300 unless you add a brake.

The Wildcat stock came in at 22.5 oz with a relatively heavy (4 oz) limbsaver pad on it. Similar goals... I was just looking for an all purpose mountain gun, and +/- 7 lbs is a good weight for that.

Thanks for chiming in. Around 7# is basically the goal. How well does your rifle shoot?

Contemplating the brake, but I'm not really excited about shooting while hunting without ear protection and the brake, I'd rather put up with recoil than jack up hearing.

 

[Yellowknife]

Thanks for chiming in. Around 7# is basically the goal. How well does your rifle shoot?

Contemplating the brake, but I'm not really excited about shooting while hunting without ear protection and the brake, I'd rather put up with recoil than jack up hearing.

Shoots like a Tikka. Not a target rifle, but the vast majority of loads will do under MOA for three shots off the bench, and good match bullets will do it for five. Shot a fair pile of animals with it from lynx to grizzly now with almost a dozen different bullets. Latest being a dall sheep at a touch over 400yds last week. I'd say the concept is sound.

Next mod is actually going be shortening the barrel and threading for a lightweight suppressor. Will add the 0.5 lbs back that I took off with the new stock, but should reduce the bark and bite a little and make it easier to shoot from those odd positions. I've found that the mechanical accuracy from the gun only goes so far when I'm rested on a tussock and shooting 25 degrees up hill so I'm trying to improve my ability to shoot it well rather than chasing the last 0.2" Suppressors are supposed to reduce recoil quite a bit along the with the obvious hearing benefit. TBD at this point, but it seemed to be the next step.

 

[jdk81]

Shoots like a Tikka. Not a target rifle, but the vast majority of loads will do under MOA for three shots off the bench, and good match bullets will do it for five. Shot a fair pile of animals with it from lynx to grizzly now with almost a dozen different bullets. Latest being a dall sheep at a touch over 400yds last week. I'd say the concept is sound.

Next mod is actually going be shortening the barrel and threading for a lightweight suppressor. Will add the 0.5 lbs back that I took off with the new stock, but should reduce the bark and bite a little and make it easier to shoot from those odd positions. I've found that the mechanical accuracy from the gun only goes so far when I'm rested on a tussock and shooting 25 degrees up hill so I'm trying to improve my ability to shoot it well rather than chasing the last 0.2" Suppressors are supposed to reduce recoil quite a bit along the with the obvious hearing benefit. TBD at this point, but it seemed to be the next step.

Sounds like a very sweet build, and exactly what I'd expect out of it, from all I've read anyway. Getting more and more excited to complete this build

 

[Justin Crossley]

I think this sounds like a great hunting rifle.

Three things I would suggest, are getting a Micro Bastard brake installed, and using the Xtreme Hardcore Gear Tru Level Rail and Ranger Tactical Scope Rings.

 

[Decker9]

Not sure if this pic will work here, but a finished wildcat stock on a 6.5 Swede. I'm kinda going the same route as you, I have the barrel and bolt sent out right not for fluting and cerakote, looking forward to getting it back.
If I remember right, the wildcat set me back about $450 Canadian. Weighed just under 17 oz before finishing.

T3 in a wildcat - Album on Imgur

 

[SpannerAK]

Drop the rail and use Talley rings, 2 ozs for both rings.

 

[Jon Boy]

Definitely something I'll have to look into and weigh the pros and cons of each item and decide where I want to take it. Those suckers are real pricey as well! Looks like 1k+ for the pounder option? Honestly for the 6-10 Oz savings I'm not sure I'd want to spend close to double the edge.

I suppose to be honest with myself, the fluting is more for the aesthetics of the rifle with the weight savings being secondary. I just don't really like the fluting on the superlite model. I could cut 2oz on the scope if I chose the 2-8x32 model, I'm just slightly worried about having the smaller objective for light transmission in low light scenarios.. is that going to play a role or mostly unnoticed?


Also, more honest than anything, I'm not looking to build the absolute lightest tikka, just looking to build an awesome mountain gun with weight, accuracy, and asthetics being my main concerns.

This is how I felt when I made some upgrades to my tikka. I wasnt going for light tho and will likely put it in a thumbhole stock to weigh it down some more. B&c stock, fluted bolt, bolt knob, mtn tac bottom metal, bipod etc and it has a break and mtn tac rail on it now. Need to get cerakoted this winter. It looks slick but does exactly what it did from the factory, just a little easier to shoot now that's its heavier and braked.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

 

[jdk81]

Not sure if this pic will work here, but a finished wildcat stock on a 6.5 Swede. I'm kinda going the same route as you, I have the barrel and bolt sent out right not for fluting and cerakote, looking forward to getting it back.
If I remember right, the wildcat set me back about $450 Canadian. Weighed just under 17 oz before finishing.

T3 in a wildcat - Album on Imgur

Awesome gun! Definitely post a couple pictures when you get the rifle back from the gunsmith, sounds like an awesome build. That sucker is super light.

Drop the rail and use Talley rings, 2 ozs for both rings.

That is a direction I definitely may go, especially since I do not plan on putting a 20 moa rail or anything. Could save a fair amount of weight there.

I think this sounds like a great hunting rifle.

Three things I would suggest, are getting a Micro Bastard brake installed, and using the Xtreme Hardcore Gear Tru Level Rail and Ranger Tactical Scope Rings.

I was considering the brake, but for what I plan on using it for it wont see a ton of range time, and I don't really want to deal with the added volume in the field. This may change once I get some range time behind the rifle. I will have to look into those options, but the talley rings are up on my list as of now for sure.

This is how I felt when I made some upgrades to my tikka. I wasnt going for light tho and will likely put it in a thumbhole stock to weigh it down some more. B&c stock, fluted bolt, bolt knob, mtn tac bottom metal, bipod etc and it has a break and mtn tac rail on it now. Need to get cerakoted this winter. It looks slick but does exactly what it did from the factory, just a little easier to shoot now that's its heavier and braked.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Sweet gun for sure! I'm looking at staying a little bit lighter, because this will be primarily a backcountry rifle and wont see extended range time besides load development. If there are things I can do in the process of lightening it to make it a better shooter, stock for example, that's a priority. Thanks for posting the picture of the rifle! Similar to what I'm doing with the fluting, except the barrel will match the bolt, ideally.

 

[Jon Boy]

Your really not going to do much from factory to make it a better shooter except for reloading from what I've seen, Justin would probably know more on that than me though. As far as added noise with a brake, I wear the orange wrap around ear plugs, just got back from a Sitka hunt where there were some hurry up shots made and I had time to put the plugs in every time.

Either way make the rifle your own and post pics when your done!! Sounds like a fun build and should look slick when your done

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