.280 Rem to .280AI?

stevevan

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Another what do you think question. I recently picked up a used Rem 700 Mtn. Rifle chambered in .280 Rem. I'm toying with the idea of making it a project rifle. Rifling is in great condition so I believe it would be suitable to rechamber to the .280 AI. Never been around the Ackely version but it seems to be gaining in popularity. Anyone whose bumped up from the standard .280 to the Improved version. Is it worth it? Did you notice any difference in performance? Was the recoil more noticable? Would you do it again, etc.? I'm thinking I'd like to make it into a lightweight carry rifle for my every so often trip to the west for mule deer. Thanks.
 

bates

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I had it&d punch a 243 to 243 ai

But in your case I would just shoot the 280 and then re barrel later

I love my 280ai but i went that way from day 1

I would also run new nosler brass vs fire form
 

AXEL

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+1, I have three custom .280s and a KMA .280AI. I had a couple other custom ,280s and have loaded for it since 1982. It is among my most favoured cartridges and I DO get higher velocities with the KMA.

All in all, I prefer a good, handloaded .280AI to about any cartridge for BC hunting and only my beloved .338WMs are equal in my affections.

I would and do also run Nosler brass and recommend it.
 

ATX762

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Been thinking of doing the same thing. What barrel lengths are you guys running with your 280 AI's. 22"? 24"? Sort of have a feeling the 24" is going to give slightly better results with that bore diameter and powder volume?
 

LaGriz

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stevan,

I have owned this same rifle since the early 90's. The caliber is an awesome choice for a western hunter, more so if you are primarily a deer hunter. The cartridge performs more efficiently with less recoil then a Rem. 7MM mag. My rifle is finicky with ammo, favoring the 160 grain bullets. I can't get a 5" 100 yard group with 140's or 139 grain loads. The 160 grain Accubond (once loaded by Federal) is a tack-driving combination in my Mt. rifle. The weapon has been pillar bedded with the barrel free floated. Prior to this work, the rifle did not hold zero. A little trigger work might also yield some good results. I never got around to doing so on my rifle. It did once shoot a ragged one-hole (off the bench) 100 yard group with a Win. Supreme 160 gr. Silvertip load that measured .38" outside! A friends chronograph indicated 2802fps for this load with the 22" barrel. At the time the rifle had a VX-2 2X7X33mm scope. I have since mounted several scopes on the weapon before going with a Minox HD 2X10X40 with a BDC style recital. I made an 440 yard shot on a whitetail with this set up. The DRT result was impressive as the 160 Accubond impacted the buck's neck. The same load allowed me to make some neck shots on a couple of whitetail does at 110 and 140 yards from a solid rest in box blind. The rifle has taken 4 bull elk (one by a friend) all taken with the discontinued 160 gr. Fail Safe factory load. None of these bulls were far, 3 being off-hand shots and 1 from a sitting position. Have never felt the balance of this rifle was all that great. The weapon is a little "butt heavy/barrel-light" and the trigger has some creep to it that compounds this making it less than idea to hold. In spite of these deficiencies, I have taken some of my best game with this rifle. It has been beaten up pretty bad over the years, in a rifle scabbard on 3 horseback hunts, transported in boats, canoes, ATVs, and while wearing a climbing stand on my back hunting WMAs. The stock looks like a canoe paddle and the blue is getting pretty bad too. Give your rifle some love. Have the chamber modified to an Ackley Improved version if you think it worth the time and $. Don't hold back on the trigger work, maybe a crown, and the pillar beading for sure. IMHO or you will be will served with this rig.

LaGriz
 

GKPrice

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locate a good gunsmith that understands and is experienced in Ackley Improved chambers and precisely how to rechamber for them as anything less than perfect can lead to case head separations on the first AI reloads BUT there are lots of smiths who know how, I'll PM you with 2 names just in case you decide to go that route - fireforming is NO BIG DEAL as a good fire form load can be used for hunting with absolutely no ill effects as I've done it with 1000's of prairie dog rounds and quite a few deer rounds as well - Ackley Improved is a really fun pursuit if you handload - FYI, Nosler brass "can" be kinda soft, I prefer Lapua when I can use it but WW works just fine too
 

AXEL

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What Lapua brass can be fireformed to .280AI?

I am happy with Nosler, so far, 2+ years with my KMA, but, I use Lapua, every time I can and it is the best I have used in 49+ years of rather active handloading.

Do you use .30-06 to make .280AI?
 

GKPrice

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What Lapua brass can be fireformed to .280AI?

I am happy with Nosler, so far, 2+ years with my KMA, but, I use Lapua, every time I can and it is the best I have used in 49+ years of rather active handloading.

Do you use .30-06 to make .280AI?

No, I failed to say that .280 from Lapua doesn't exist BUT I'm now gonna check if .280 AI CAN be formed easily from '06, don't see why not - I used to make my "7mm/300 Win Mag" brass simply by necking down and shooting
 

GKPrice

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No, I failed to say that .280 from Lapua doesn't exist BUT I'm now gonna check if .280 AI CAN be formed easily from '06, don't see why not - I used to make my "7mm/300 Win Mag" brass simply by necking down and shooting

I've used a ton of Nosler Brass (usually made my Norma) and it's good enough for sure, has worked without problem for the '06 AI's - It's just not as good IME as Lapua
 

AXEL

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Yep, I use Norma and RWS too, but, Lapua, so far is my choice when I can use it.

I suddenly thought of the Lapua .30-06 brass re: .280AI as I finished the above post and it should work and if you do it, please post the results.
 

GKPrice

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Yep, I use Norma and RWS too, but, Lapua, so far is my choice when I can use it.

I suddenly thought of the Lapua .30-06 brass re: .280AI as I finished the above post and it should work and if you do it, please post the results.

I surely will .....
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Me too ........ 160 class bullets be damned, an accurate barrel spitting a 140 Etip would be very tough to best with the benefit of being fast and flat

I'd have to double check brass when I get home but I want to say off memory that 280rem brass is longer than 30-06 (both straight side and also over all length). Once you neck down the 30cal to 7mm not sure if it stretches enough. The neck/shoulder junction is likely too far back so you can't fire form off that and you'd definitely have to jam the lands to keep the case firm against the bolt. If that all worked out though once all is said and done your brass thicknesses in the various areas might be thick/thin which could be an issue.

P.S. 145LRX at 3130 from a 24" tube. The e-tip should be similar, definitely flat/fast/effective.


As for the original post. Unless the current barrel is a really nice shooter I'd just run it as is. You're likely over half way on chambering costs for a new barrel to have a gunsmith set the barrel back properly and recut the AI chamber. So unless the current barrel is a shooter save up and put a premium barrel on chambered in 280AI where the likely increased accuracy will make use of the extra velocity down range where it counts further out.
 
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