6.5 Ruger Precision Tactical

Joined
Dec 29, 2016
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690
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Reno, NV
I think The gap is probably 3/32

That is awfully close. You will likely be hitting your scope upon recoil, which will flex the whole unit, including the hard guard. If I were you, I would look into slightly higher rings just to be safe.

As for getting a good cheek weld, I would really recommend an adjustable cheek rest. Getting a good eye position which is consistent is crucial for accuracy.

Good luck and welcome to the world of long range shooting. If you lived closer, I would invite you to my Long Range Tactical Rifles matches, but that would be quite a drive for just a club level match.
 
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Nov 8, 2016
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Kiowa/Deer Trail, CO
Personally, I won't brake anything I own. Moving the front ring forward another 2-3 notches won't bring the obj. bell any closer to the hg., and it looks like the rear could go 1-2 and still leave plenty of room for a bubble, if you think you just have to have one.....
 
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mfllood3800
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Personally I brake what ever I can
No reason to move the scope either, and yep I prefer a bubble, and nope, it will clear just fine where I got it.
 
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mfllood3800
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That is awfully close. You will likely be hitting your scope upon recoil, which will flex the whole unit, including the hard guard. If I were you, I would look into slightly higher rings just to be safe.

As for getting a good cheek weld, I would really recommend an adjustable cheek rest. Getting a good eye position which is consistent is crucial for accuracy.

Good luck and welcome to the world of long range shooting. If you lived closer, I would invite you to my Long Range Tactical Rifles matches, but that would be quite a drive for just a club level match.


It is clearing pretty good, I am almost a 1/4".
I have 3 boxes thru it and so far so good.
This stock as all of Rugers PR's have the adj cheek, and the way it is set up right now fits me perfectly. I can settle in open my eyes and be centered perfectly.

Id love to shoot some LR matches.
I actually went on line the other night to investigate some competitions here in Utah.
I drive to Minden 1 a year for racing. Every now and then I swing thru Reno.

Just not sure I need another hobby
:)
 
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I know it will clear just fine.... But moving the rings to maximum spacing available(and you gots the room), make it stronger, and less prone to be bumped off. But, I thought everybody knew that......
 
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mfllood3800
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Yea I'm not worried about them being bumped off. I've seen rings directly on either side of the turrets and every where else. Even in your pics , the spacing on yours could've been way more. I am sure my spacing is wider than yours. But I bet you knew that too. I'm wider than standard 700 action as well as one piece ring set ups.

I always appreciate your kind words and positivity Huntsman22. Seems you cant find a thread where you offer anything but sarcasm.
Even over on 24hrCampfire I saw a guy threaten you. You seem to make friends no matter where you go.
 
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Joined
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Actually, it seems as if my trying to help you, gets taken as sarcasm. As to the pics of my spacing, as you can see, the front ring is as far forward as the action rail will allow, without mounting on the foreend(which I am sure you know, is another no-no). And it is obvious that the rear ring is as far back as the pic notches allow. Also, my scope is a tad shorter than yours, with 4 1/2" between the rings, and I'd love to have more, but without maxing out the stock(which don't fit ME) to move the scope back, it ain't happening. As to your other comments, I don't even know what camofire is, and everyone that knows me, loves me......
 
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mfllood3800
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Actually, it seems as if my trying to help you, gets taken as sarcasm.

perhaps try working on that....


I just installed my level and it , as I suspected, consumes the space allowed at the rear. My front ring is way closer to the bell than the turret. I have no worries this will lose its position.

In fact my ring location, in my opinion is not as critical as ring hardware torque. Or lapping the rings. Or crushing the areas too close to the turrets or bell flange. Lot's of stuff way more critical.
 
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mfllood3800
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How did you get the "Ruger" name in the stock to stay black? I am thinking you painted the desert sand color items your self?
This is how I want to do mine am gonna start disassembling it today for prep and primer.
 
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mfllood3800
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Got it stripped down, primed/painted.
Will clear it tonight and reassemble tomorrow.

Then back to the range to verify 0 and see if the newly installed brake, and softer trigger affects it at all.
Then maybe a trip out to the 1000 yd hill.

I am only confirmed out to 500 so far....
 
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Mine was a low-budget home Krylon paintjob. I did remove parts to paint, like the handguard, stock parts and scope rail. I masked off the scope rail notches so I could paint just the flat sides. The ruger logo was painted over, and then I thought it might look better black, so I took a Sharpie marker to it....grin

Put up pics when you're done. I'll need to contribute some sarcasm, I'm sure.....another grin
 
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mfllood3800
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Mine was a low-budget home Krylon paintjob. I did remove parts to paint, like the handguard, stock parts and scope rail. I masked off the scope rail notches so I could paint just the flat sides. The ruger logo was painted over, and then I thought it might look better black, so I took a Sharpie marker to it....grin

Put up pics when you're done. I'll need to contribute some sarcasm, I'm sure.....another grin

Haha
I am getting used to you. I think you're kind of messed up, but have some good input, if I read between the lines.
:)

I used a special paint I use for hydro graphics dipping.
Then just regular clear satin so there isn't a shine.
I pulled everything a part to scotchpad and solvent clean.

Mine too is low budget set up, but I want it to last, hopefully.
Ill get post of pics up tomorrow and eagerly await your comments.
buwhahahah

Seriuosly your guns contrasts looked exactly how I wanted to do mine, so I stole your idea.
Not sure on the sharpie idea though gotta figure something out there later on.
 
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Kiowa/Deer Trail, CO
The idea of using a sharpie on the lettering was a GOOD idea. Easy/peasy, and a breeze if you ever need to touch it up. You gonna paint some mags? If you do, don't paint any higher than you need to, to hide in the magwell. Leave the top au naturel. That means no paint up high, in french.
 
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mfllood3800
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The idea of using a sharpie on the lettering was a GOOD idea. Easy/peasy, and a breeze if you ever need to touch it up. You gonna paint some mags? If you do, don't paint any higher than you need to, to hide in the magwell. Leave the top au naturel. That means no paint up high, in french.

I painted the one mag and did just the exposed areas, Don't need paint crap in the upper.

I'm thinking of masking straight over the ruger , then cutting out the letters using the edge of the letters as a simple guide, and brushing it in that way. I have some clear vinyl from my decal business that may work for this.
If not- it's sharpie time
That's French for I will use a sharpie.
 
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
326
Location
NY
For dialing, some love the SWFA scopes. I've never tried one but it's got me intrigued.

I run SWFA on my Savage Stealth Rifle and a few others. I was curious about them myself, so I bought one. Then I bought some more! Mine track perfectly. I like the glass and the focus works well. Honestly a great scope IMHO.
 
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mfllood3800
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I run SWFA on my Savage Stealth Rifle and a few others. I was curious about them myself, so I bought one. Then I bought some more! Mine track perfectly. I like the glass and the focus works well. Honestly a great scope IMHO.
I'm hearing good things about swfa


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Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
326
Location
NY
I like them a lot. I plan on using them from now on. If I wanted to spend a tad more I'd go with a Night Force SHV.

For me though I m sold on the SWFA.

The SWFA is lifetime warranty and Japanese made. Same as the Night Force.





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mfllood3800
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Here it is all done
Now time to re verify zero
And shoot some strings
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