Cleaning and making an older rifle hunting ready.

RBNM

FNG
Joined
Jun 19, 2017
Messages
17
Location
NM
Let me start by saying that I know next to nothing about firearms, their care, and really have a youtube level knowledge of rifle cleaning.

I recently inherited a rifle built by a family member sometime in the (late?) 1950's. Rifle is a rebuilt Mauser. Caliber is 280 Remington. From what I can gather from family it has been shot a few times, and probably the last bullets went through it in the 80's. As far as I know the rifle has sat in a dry climate untouched basically for decades.

The rifle was given to me on the condition that it wouldn't be a museum piece but that I would use it to hunt.

What do I need to do to appropriately care for the rifle, properly clean it, and make sure it is in good condition to begin putting rounds through it this year? It holds a lot of sentimental value to the family and I would like to make sure to do it right and avoid mistakes.

Any advice is welcome and appreciated.
 

Hunt4lyf

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
251
Location
Colorado
Honestly, if it were me I’d take it to a gunsmith and have him go over it for you and make sure it’s sound. Cheap insurance to make sure it doesn’t blow up in your face.
 

ramont

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 19, 2017
Messages
259
Location
Montana
I second the idea of having the rifle checked by a gunsmith, there are many things that you, as a novice, need to know about that rifle and absent anybody that is properly informed about it only a gunsmith would be qualified to evaluate the condition of it. Ask the gunsmith to recommend how to clean and maintain the rifle.
 

howl

WKR
Joined
Dec 3, 2016
Messages
463
Location
GA
First order is to check headspace. Buy gauges or just get a gunsmith to do it. A gun that old I'd want to disassemble, detail clean and lube. This is a once every several years thing unless is gets soaked in the rain. I generally forget how to disassemble the bolt and have to look it up every time.
Gunsmiths do that sort of thing all the time. It might be worth discussing when you get the headspace checked. I like Hornady One Shot for lubing the bolt. I put a film of Corrosion X on everything else before reassembling the rifle back into the stock.

As for the bore, you've probably got multiple layers of carbon and copper. Clean from the breech, preferably with a bore guide and one piece metal rod. Alternate between a carbon solvent and a copper solvent, brushing and patching between. I like Slip 2000 and Shooter's Choice. If it's really fouled, soaking overnight with Kroil can cut down on the process because instead of dissolving layers, Kroil gets under them so they can be pushed out. Consider whether solvent will harm any particular material on that specific gun.

Once you get it clean and settle on one type of ammo you can just use WipeOut and patches maybe every 200 rounds. Rifles that are only used for limited practice and regular hunting may only need to be cleaned before and after hunting season. A blued gun needs to be wiped down with a corrosion preventative after handling. Rust happens if you don't. If you're concerned about scent in hunting season, coat the whole thing with paste wax instead.

You did not say anything about the sights, scope or mounts. Some of the older mounts were junk designs. Rifles vibrate violently. You should go over everything to make sure everything is tight. And consider updating the scope and mounts if appropriate.
 

GrantMan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
124
Location
Fernley, Nevada
If it was me I would just run a bore snake down the bore to make sure it is clear of obstruction, test the safety and dry fire it. Then I would purchase a box of factory ammo and test to see if it will chamber and extract and then head to where ever you can to shoot it and put on some eye and ear protection and fire it. Rifles are simple in design and the Mauser action is strong. If you run into any hiccups along the way I would then look for a gunsmith. I wouldn't worry about the head space unless a factory round wouldn't chamber or if you notice a shiny ring or brass separation on a fired round. Have fun with it and go put it into use.
 

cooperjd

WKR
Joined
Dec 30, 2016
Messages
473
Location
Mount Pleasant, SC
i like howl's advice with one exception... i like a coated metal rod, so you're not running a bare metal rod down the bore... or a tipton one piece carbon fiber one (what i use).

if you do not have gunsmiths in your area, you can look for go/no-go gauges on midway or brownells. youtube how to use them. that will let you know if the gun is headspaced properly. if it is, i would clean it and shoot it with some cheap remington core-lokts and see how she does.
 
OP
R

RBNM

FNG
Joined
Jun 19, 2017
Messages
17
Location
NM
First order is to check headspace. Buy gauges or just get a gunsmith to do it. A gun that old I'd want to disassemble, detail clean and lube. This is a once every several years thing unless is gets soaked in the rain. I generally forget how to disassemble the bolt and have to look it up every time.
Gunsmiths do that sort of thing all the time. It might be worth discussing when you get the headspace checked. I like Hornady One Shot for lubing the bolt. I put a film of Corrosion X on everything else before reassembling the rifle back into the stock.

As for the bore, you've probably got multiple layers of carbon and copper. Clean from the breech, preferably with a bore guide and one piece metal rod. Alternate between a carbon solvent and a copper solvent, brushing and patching between. I like Slip 2000 and Shooter's Choice. If it's really fouled, soaking overnight with Kroil can cut down on the process because instead of dissolving layers, Kroil gets under them so they can be pushed out. Consider whether solvent will harm any particular material on that specific gun.

Once you get it clean and settle on one type of ammo you can just use WipeOut and patches maybe every 200 rounds. Rifles that are only used for limited practice and regular hunting may only need to be cleaned before and after hunting season. A blued gun needs to be wiped down with a corrosion preventative after handling. Rust happens if you don't. If you're concerned about scent in hunting season, coat the whole thing with paste wax instead.

You did not say anything about the sights, scope or mounts. Some of the older mounts were junk designs. Rifles vibrate violently. You should go over everything to make sure everything is tight. And consider updating the scope and mounts if appropriate.

Thank you for the detailed response, it is exactly what I was hoping for.

Scope mounts are Leupold Detacho's and scope is a Weaver K4 60-B. I'm not 100% opposed to changing these, but I do plan on trying them out to maintain the character of the rifle if possible.
 

JFK

WKR
Joined
Sep 13, 2016
Messages
696
Should cost you less than $50 at a gunsmith for them to check it out. Pretty small price considering it was a free rifle for piece of mind.
 

ramont

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Nov 19, 2017
Messages
259
Location
Montana
Buying a single headspace gauge isn't of much value, generally you'll need a few gauges in order to find the headspace dimension of the rifle. There are enough critical issues that need to be checked on a rifle this old, especially one that hasn't been properly maintained, that an amateur isn't really capable of evaluating the condition. Personally I think it's irresponsible to not recommend that a professional check the rifle's condition when the owner knows next to nothing about rifles.
 

howl

WKR
Joined
Dec 3, 2016
Messages
463
Location
GA
Those old Weavers still work. You don't have to spend much to improve on them, though. Kinda depends on how seriously you take your hunting. I have bought them to put on 22s used in broad daylight. Steel scopes need corrosion prevention. If you keep a scope that old in the house and then take it hunting in the cold, it may fog up. Put it in the truck the night before so it can equilibrate to ambient conditions before you take it afield. Also, never clean a lens unless wet. Wiping dust off a dry lens with a dry wipe will scratch it. Use liquid and soft, clean cloth.

The mounts look like you're going to find out the hard way they won't hold zero under extended use or accidental knocks. I think everyone goes through that phase. A vintage rig is gonna look cool doing it.

Did anyone say get some good hollow ground screwdrivers that fit the screws well? You probably have to bugger up a screw or three to start wanting them.
 

rayporter

WKR
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
4,251
Location
arkansas or ohio
I can see you taking it to a knowledge person to be checked. probably the right thing to do.

me? I would get a factory case and some scotch tape and see if it will chamber with tape on it or at least how many layers of tape it takes to get bolt resistance. unless it took many layers of tape, clean it and measure the case and shoot it and measure the case again.

good luck, great old rifle.
 
Joined
Jun 11, 2013
Messages
1,214
Location
se ga
most guns especially older guns like to be lubed . if it has sat the lube has dried out like paraffin , need to clean and lube be generous with it then wipe off excess
 

GrantMan

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 14, 2012
Messages
124
Location
Fernley, Nevada
I can see you taking it to a knowledge person to be checked. probably the right thing to do.

me? I would get a factory case and some scotch tape and see if it will chamber with tape on it or at least how many layers of tape it takes to get bolt resistance. unless it took many layers of tape, clean it and measure the case and shoot it and measure the case again.

good luck, great old rifle.

The scotch tape does work. When I install a savage barrel I just use a go gauge and then use scotch tape on the go gauge and it becomes the no gauge. I hand load for my rifles and check the head space on the fired brass for sizing using calipers and hornady bushing and never have had a problem with excessive head space.
 
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