Tikka T3 w/ SWFA SS - ejection issue

[UtahJimmy]

I recently upgraded my scope to a 3-15 SWFA on my Tikka T3. Super impressed with the scope; sighted in and hitting steel at 722 within 9 rounds.

I put it on a low DNZ mount and am having a frustrating issue: my spent brass is smacking the giant windage knob and staying in the action. Not a big deal at the range but this is my primary hunting gun, so this isn't acceptable.

I've searched the issue and it doesn't seem to be too common, but with the small ejection port it is reliably failing to fully eject. I found a post from 16Bore that said he put an o-ring against the knurled knobs and that solved his issue. I tried this simple fix but it was not successful.

This leads me to the following options (in order of cost):

1. File down the underside of the turret to eliminate the point of contact. It is in between the set screws so this is a viable option, but not the cleanest as it will be exposing the non-anodized aluminum.

2. Remove the turret and recap with some rubber knob to keep the elements out. I like this option just need to find the perfect match.

3. Order medium mounts. I already made a kydex cheek riser for alignment so this is an easy change.

Am I missing something? Any other options or recommendations?

This is a screenshot from a slow-MO video. I had the scope mounted farther back, but then wanted to see if mounting it all the way forward would remedy this issue, which it did not.

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[TeaGull]

Take the knob off and put a rubber cap... unless you're dialing for wind a lot.

 

[freediver111]

I'd go with a 20 MOA pic rail and low rings. Not an issue since you already have a kydex cheek riser. If you don't plan to ever shoot past 1,000-1,200 yards, you could always go with a 0 MOA rail and still have plenty of room to dial up so long as your gun is shooting around 2,900 fps or more.

 

[davsco]

same problem, other side...

i have a rem 700 LEFTY and the new scope i put on it, zeiss 4-16x44, the parallax knob is doing the same thing. crap!!

and i just bought and got the new nikon f1 4-16x50 for another rem 700 lefty, and that combo parallax/light on-off knob is HUGE and worrying it will also block ejection.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

Dump those heavy DNz rings for medium rings with 20moa inserts on a pic rail. It’ll clear 300 win mag no problem.

It’s actually better anyways to not totally cheek mash a hunting rifle due to inclined shot in cramped positions

The other way to do it is use material to Lower ejection angle of brass... or remove material to lower the ejection port like the newer t3x

Or upgrade to t3x

 

[TauPhi111]

I recently upgraded my scope to a 3-15 SWFA on my Tikka T3. Super impressed with the scope; sighted in and hitting steel at 722 within 9 rounds.

I put it on a low DNZ mount and am having a frustrating issue: my spent brass is smacking the giant windage knob and staying in the action. Not a big deal at the range but this is my primary hunting gun, so this isn't acceptable.

I've searched the issue and it doesn't seem to be too common, but with the small ejection port it is reliably failing to fully eject. I found a post from 16Bore that said he put an o-ring against the knurled knobs and that solved his issue. I tried this simple fix but it was not successful.

This leads me to the following options (in order of cost):

1. File down the underside of the turret to eliminate the point of contact. It is in between the set screws so this is a viable option, but not the cleanest as it will be exposing the non-anodized aluminum.

2. Remove the turret and recap with some rubber knob to keep the elements out. I like this option just need to find the perfect match.

3. Order medium mounts. I already made a kydex cheek riser for alignment so this is an easy change.

Am I missing something? Any other options or recommendations?

This is a screenshot from a slow-MO video. I had the scope mounted farther back, but then wanted to see if mounting it all the way forward would remedy this issue, which it did not.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I've been thinking about this rifle (the ultralight version) and scope combo recently for a lightweight rifle. What stock do you have on there that is multicam?

 

[UtahJimmy]

I've been thinking about this rifle (the ultralight version) and scope combo recently for a lightweight rifle. What stock do you have on there that is multicam?

Highly recommend the setup! Just go with mediums so you don't run into the same issue as me... unless the new ejection port on the t3x doesn't have this high ejection issue.

It's the factory t3 stock with a rattle can paint job I did.

 

[Trigger06]

My brother had the same issue with a Browning Xbolt and a Vortex Viper PST Gen II 3-15. We solved it by going with higher rings and moving the scope a little more forward.

 

[UtahJimmy]

Take the knob off and put a rubber cap... unless you're dialing for wind a lot.

Tried this out first. Got it to eject reliably but it still hits. Not really digging the look, but I think it would function fine.

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[TauPhi111]

Highly recommend the setup! Just go with mediums so you don't run into the same issue as me... unless the new ejection port on the t3x doesn't have this high ejection issue.

It's the factory t3 stock with a rattle can paint job I did.

god damn man that is a sick paint job. what kind of paint did you use and how did you do it?

 

[UtahJimmy]

god damn man that is a sick paint job. what kind of paint did you use and how did you do it?

Thanks! It's actually quite easy. I roughed up the stock with sandpaper and then cleaned it. Painted the whole thing off white, put decals on. Painted earth brown, more decals. Then striped the hunter green and nutmeg, decals. The opposite direction striped with textured autumn brown and khaki. Remove decals. Hit with some steel wool to knock down the ridges. Then apply a bunch of coats of clear matte to seal/protect it.

I used removable vinyl for the decals, but I've seen guys lay down blue painters tape on wax paper. There's also kits on etsy, you can choose any camo pattern but I'm too cheap for that.

As far as paints, I'm sure there are better options out there for long term. But with the amount of colors I needed, I didn't want to spend a small fortune on the factory stock paint.

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[R H Clark]

god damn man that is a sick paint job. what kind of paint did you use and how did you do it?

You did a very good job with the paint. To my taste, I feel the white is a little too much contrast to the other colors and the only thing detracting from perfection. Not a criticism, just a suggestion based on personal taste, but I might choose something other than white, perhaps a grey.

 

[UtahJimmy]

You did a very good job with the paint. To my taste, I feel the white is a little too much contrast to the other colors and the only thing detracting from perfection. Not a criticism, just a suggestion based on personal taste, but I might choose something other than white, perhaps a grey.

I agree, the white pops a little too much. I think more of a cream would have been better, or a gray as you suggested.

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[UtahJimmy]

Update: Got the medium dnz and the issue is resolved.

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[JWP58]

Ever considered running a 20moa rail and Burris tactical rings with even more moa cant? Would solve the issue i bet and give you more vertical adjustment

 

[UtahJimmy]

Ever considered running a 20moa rail and Burris tactical rings with even more moa cant? Would solve the issue i bet and give you more vertical adjustment

I thought about it, but with my current setup I could* get to over 1400. Pretty sure I don't have those skills!

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