Boot Dressing/Glue/Oils wtf

elkyinzer

WKR
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
1,258
Location
Pennslyvania
I had a pair of Lowa Renegades the toe cap fell all apart and based on some research I attributed it to my sno seal breaking down the glue. Been using SnoSeal all my life on the cheaper Rocky boots I grew up on with no problems, so that's dumb, but anyway.

I also got a pair of Kenetreks this Christmas, and the instructions said not to used oil based dressings. I also got a jar of Kenetrek boot wax with it and the first two freaking ingredients are vegetable oil and beeswax. So which is it, will it break down the glue or not??

What gives? So many people use oil/fat/wax based boot dressings, why are the manufacturers stupidly using glue that is broken down by it? Or is it not that simple? I am stubborn and really like the dressings and don't care for the silicone sprays.
 

Muttman

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 11, 2017
Messages
111
I’ve been using nikwax on advice from crispi’s customer service
Works awesome & no separation been using for many years


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Sep 3, 2014
Messages
529
Location
Sabinal, TX
Kenetrex customer service says not to use anything with animal oils and that vegetable oil is OK.

You know what that sounds like, right? Hippy vegan anti-hunting rhetoric. Lol! I could buy the argument that some petroleum product could break down glue but animal vs vegetable? That sounds highly suspicious. Better not get and critter juices on those Kenetreks or they may go into vegan self-destruct mode! Lol!

^^sorry, I couldn’t help myself!^^



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Tony Trietch

Part Time Bow Hiker
Staff member
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
2,104
Location
Northern MI, USA
I feel your pain, I used Snoseal for a long time and it kept water out on my work boots. Looking back I think it prevented the boots from breathing like they should have been.

A few years ago I started using the Nikwax paste and spray. They work well at keeping water out and maintaining breath-ability.
 

Gumbo

WKR
Joined
Apr 26, 2015
Messages
1,298
Location
Montana
I have used the kennetrek wax on my kenntreks for years (and A LOT of it). Never had any problems with the glue breaking down.
 

SWThomas

FNG
Joined
Dec 28, 2017
Messages
19
I got the Schnees stuff and applied it to my Perfekt Hunter boots. And the rand started peeling in a couple spots. Not really a big deal. I wanted a scent free conditioner/waterproofer. Obenaufs has a very, very strong odor and I'm thinking the critters will get spooked by it.
 
Last edited:

WyoElk

WKR
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
683
I’ve had the toes rands come off of three pairs of Lowas that were never treated with anything. All started to come apart in less than 6 months and replaced under warranty.
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
806
Location
Dallas
Obenaufs on my Meindls and Bean boots. Only used them for rifle hunting deer and elk but no issues with scent in those scenarios. Not sure I'd use them on boots going to my treestand.

I feel that for the purpose of maintaining hiking/mountain boots in those types of scenarios the wind is critical and if a critter is going to smell your boots he is probably going to smell everything else on you too.
 

Tony Trietch

Part Time Bow Hiker
Staff member
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
2,104
Location
Northern MI, USA
I got the Schnees stuff and applied it to my Perfekt Hunter boots. And the rand stanrted peeling in a couple spots. Not really a big deal. I wanted a scent free conditioner/waterproofer. Obenaufs has a very, very strong odor and I'm thinking the critters will get spooked by it.

If they can smell your boot waterproofing, they can smell you.
 
Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
2,252
Location
New Orleans, La.
When I had Danner boots, I only used Danner's waterproofing Gel. When I went to Kenetrek, I only used Kenetrek's waterproofing cream. I now wear Crispi Hunter GTX, and use only the Crispi Waterproofing Cream. If you have to buy the product anyway, why not buy the one made by the company that made the boots?
 

bhylton

WKR
Joined
Jan 28, 2015
Messages
571
Location
-MT-
chromium tanned leather vs oil tanned leather is one reason for the discrepancy between using oil based vs wax based treatments. our local mountaineering store owner explained that the different leathers have different needs. the oil tanned stuff needs the oils replenished to maintain its pliability and flexibility to keep it from cracking. where putting an oil based treatment on chromium tanned leather will cause it to loose its structural integrity/ shape and stretch like its not supposed to. over treating oil tanned leather will cause to stretch too much as well. best i have used on chromium tanned boots ( asolo) has been grangers G wax. applying when the boots are hot and doing a couple coats it created a waxy coat that really shed water well.

everyone i work with gave up on obenaufs after it started rotting the leather on their oil tanned boots ( white, nicks, wescos) and pealing the rands off chromium tanned boots (mostly lowa tibets or baffin pros). Im pretty sure the " nubuck-cowhide" leather boots like lowas are chromium or some other mineral salt tanned rather than oil tanned but im not 100% on that.

I guess my 2 cents is that ive been very happy with grangers G wax on my hiking and work boots. hope you find something that works for you
 
Joined
Jul 15, 2013
Messages
12
chromium tanned leather vs oil tanned leather is one reason for the discrepancy between using oil based vs wax based treatments. our local mountaineering store owner explained that the different leathers have different needs. the oil tanned stuff needs the oils replenished to maintain its pliability and flexibility to keep it from cracking. where putting an oil based treatment on chromium tanned leather will cause it to loose its structural integrity/ shape and stretch like its not supposed to. over treating oil tanned leather will cause to stretch too much as well. best i have used on chromium tanned boots ( asolo) has been grangers G wax. applying when the boots are hot and doing a couple coats it created a waxy coat that really shed water well.

everyone i work with gave up on obenaufs after it started rotting the leather on their oil tanned boots ( white, nicks, wescos) and pealing the rands off chromium tanned boots (mostly lowa tibets or baffin pros). Im pretty sure the " nubuck-cowhide" leather boots like lowas are chromium or some other mineral salt tanned rather than oil tanned but im not 100% on that.

I guess my 2 cents is that ive been very happy with grangers G wax on my hiking and work boots. hope you find something that works for you

This is something I'm going to research. If true, this could be a pretty big freakin deal for folks that have more than one kind of boots. I have Hanwag, Asolo, Lowa, and Danners. :eek:
 

SWThomas

FNG
Joined
Dec 28, 2017
Messages
19
If they can smell your boot waterproofing, they can smell you.

True. But if I'm creeping in and out of their domain, the rest of me isn't touching and rubbing against rocks, sticks, vegetation, and other stuff on the ground. My boots are.
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
2,401
I've settled on Nikwax for my boots so there can be no gray area if I need warranty.

I'm also on my third pair of Lowas that had the rand start to peal. This current pair started after the second load of fire wood I cut, and I decided to except it, and fix them myself with 3m marine adhesive.
 

Sickforit

FNG
Joined
Mar 10, 2017
Messages
66
It’s very common for leather/stiching to break down or rot when using any oil with an animal fat or tallow it. It’ not good for leather, people just didn’t know any better before. Neatsfoot, mink, etc. it’s not rhetoric, it’s physics. Skidmores leather cream is about as good a product as any that exists today. Check it out. It’s all King’s saddlery museum will use on their saddles for the very reason I mentioned
 
Top