Buy once cry once fixed blade hunting knife?

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Kestrel knives are fantastic. If you want something heavier I am a big fan of survive knives.


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Daniel_M

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And here I thought my Havalon was a buy once cry once. $200 for a Skeleton skinner? Dang. Maybe I don't appreciate field sharpening enough. lol
 
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I'd go steel type and buy from a trusted guy or company that knew heat treating and tempering.


I've spent a lot of money on knives. A LOT looking for the right one. Bought from quite a few custom makers. The best two knives I have are made from O1 steel. I went the carbon 1095 route. D2 route, etc.... However, the best all around edge retention and sharpening ability for me has been O1. Lucky for me that my brother and a good friend are both custom knife makers. It was through their trials that has led me to this. If you ask, them, they'll tel you the same thing. O1 takes a good sharpening stone or system. But, it really does hold the edge. Plus, it's much cheaper than D2. These are not the lightest knives in the world but, by the time one considers carrying a sharpening stone in their pack, to touch up lesser steels, it's comparable.

I'll dig them out and take some pics
 
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robtattoo

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Rob, tell me about the one bottom right...

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That'd be one of my own making. 2¾" blade of O1 carbon steel, treated to 60 RWC, Cherry burl 3 finger grip with a clip sheath. It's my do-everything, edc fixed blade.
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robtattoo

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As far as hunting knives go, I'm a huge fan of learning how to maintain an edge & using whatever you've got.
As a knife maker, I learned a long long time ago that 90% of people can't sharpen a knife to save their lives, but everyone can maintain an edge easily with a steel, crock stick etc. That's the reason I built all my knives on the softer side. Yes, they won't hold an edge as long, but they're much easier to get sharp & once you've got it sharp, keeping it that way is simple.
I hear so many people brag that they've cleaned 'X' number of animals without having to touch the edge. To me, that simply means that either A: they're working with a blunt knife or B: the blade is so hard they don't know what to do with it once they realise it's dull.

I'm constantly touching up my blade. In all honesty, I'd be amazed if any knife I own has seen more than 30 seconds of cutting time without being hit on a steel.

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Both of these have an acid stone wash finish. I like the rustic look. As you can see by the arm pic, they are straight razor sharp and they stay that way.

knife 002.jpgknife 015.jpgknife 002.jpgknife 015.jpg


If you choose a drop point style, I'd highly advise a kryadex type sheath. God Bless
 

5MilesBack

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I hear so many people brag that they've cleaned 'X' number of animals without having to touch the edge. To me, that simply means that either A: they're working with a blunt knife or B: the blade is so hard they don't know what to do with it once they realise it's dull.

I've broken down two bulls now with my Gerber Gator S30V knife without any touch-ups and it still slices paper. As soon as it does dull, then I'll figure out what to do with it.
 

robtattoo

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I've broken down two bulls now with my Gerber Gator S30V knife without any touch-ups and it still slices paper. As soon as it does dull, then I'll figure out what to do with it.

No offence meant.
There is surprisingly little actual cutting to do to break down an animal.

If I had to pick one 'do everything & do it well' knife, it'd be the Enzo Camper.
Good steel, simple profile, great grind, excellent heat treat, comfortable grip & a good sheath. Second choice would be a Mora Bushcrafter.
 
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So not a "true" hunting knife by probably many peoples standards. Yet my tried and true, beaten to heck and back, goes with me everywhere outdoor knife is the Benchmade 162 Bushcrafter. It will break down an elk, deer, squirrel, grouse, fish, rope, small tree, and logs with equal ease. It was designed to and can take a heck of a beating. The steel is CPM-S30V so it also has excellent edge retention as well. It isn't overly compact but not huge either. For me it is the perfect do everything knife.
 

5MilesBack

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There is surprisingly little actual cutting to do to break down an animal.

I used to use my Buck 110 folder. And I'd have to carry a hone with me to touch it up a few times on one bull. But not with this S30V steel. But ya, that just means sharpening it will be 10 times as difficult.
 

Lawnboi

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This is like asking what vehicle to buy. Lots of options, most will get the job done, a lot of personal preference is involved. Unfortunately the only way to figure out what you prefer is to use the stuff.

I like bark river, they make good knives, with good steel in many options, good knives.

That or if you know exactly what you want I would go custom, Steve at Red Rock tool is who I have been using, made by hand in the USA by one guy for a reasonable price, stuff Iv had from his has been a definite step up in fit and finish. Very easy to communicate with. But you will have to wait. This route will give you a truly one of a kind knife, more than likley something you will be able to pass on.

Whatever you get learn how to sharpen it. most of these high dollar knives use very hard steel. Some is easier to sharpen than other, some will hold an edge through multiple deer though. Depends on what you want.
 

Beendare

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Its all about the quality of the steel and temper. I used to think steeling a knife was just what you had to do but a few of the knives I have now including my S30v blades...they just flat out hold an edge longer and its nice you don't have to stop every 10 minutes to touch up your stinking knife.
 
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