Fat Bike

[Titan_Bow]

I'm looking to replace my old hand-me-down mountain bike that I've been using for hunting the last several years. I want a fat bike with disc brakes, as the old bike I have now just gets down right dangerous with a loaded cart and any kind of moisture.
I know there are several hunting specific companies out there; Cogburn and Rambo bikes for example. Would I be better off going with a non-hunting bike and adding the things I want and need from a bike shop, or are the Cogburns and Rambo's come with features you can't get otherwise? Also, the Rambo had an electric motor version. I would think that would exclude it from trails that are closed to motorized vehicles?

 

[les welch]

Go with a real bike company. Aluminum frame. I love my Fatboy.


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[Regul8r1]

I use a surly, but it is heavier and steel, but they are solid. Fat bikes require more leg power!

 

[coyoteman]

My Cogburn has treated me well.

 

[SLDMTN]

I can't speak for CO but up here in AK, any form of assistance from any type of motor is against the law in non motorized areas. There's been more than a few people that thought they were legal only to find they were definitely not.

 

[Floorguy]

Go with a real bike company. Aluminum frame. I love my Fatboy.


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While my 9zero7 whiteout is aluminum, titanium and carbon are the frame materials I would be looking at if I were in the market right now. Honestly steel has a more compliant ride as well.

I don't know anything about rambo, the cogburn seems like a good bike. Personally I would get a be from a bike shop and add what you want. I am not aware of anything that the cogburn comes with that you couldn't get otherwise.

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[Floorguy]

Speaking of fat bikes Saturday is Global fat bike day where there are group fatbike rides organized all over the world. Anyone that is in south central alaska there is one riding in the Knik river rec area Saturday night from 6 to 9 starting from the parking lot off sullivan. Temps are going to be chilly.

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[AK Shane]

All the major bike companies are producing fat bikes these days. Check out 9zero7, Borealis, Surly, Salsa, Specialized, Trek, Heller, Norco. All these companies have a few different models with varying degrees of components. I'd love to have a Borealis but it's not in my budget. I was looking very hard at one of last years Specialized Fatboys just yesterday. Its a really nice lower cost fatbike with solid components.

 

[Floorguy]

Borealis has had issues with frames not staying in one piece.

Fatback is another brand to look at.

Framed is a lower cost brand that sells direct to consumers and has a small dealer base as well.

What's the price range you are looking at?

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[goodgrouper]

Are you anticipating riding primarily mud, sand, and snow? if not then go with a normal mountain bike.

 

[Titan_Bow]

Thanks for all the responses. I really know absolutely nothing about bikes but have really been doing alot of research the last week. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may not really need a fat bike. I use my bike primarily to access deer and turkey spots in western Nebraska and eastern Colorado, and ride alot around town for exercise.
The more I read, the more I am thinking about a 27.5" tire, 2.8 or 3" in more of a "bikepacking" style bike. Anyone ever build a bike with the sole intention of it being a hunting bike? What kind of frame or geometry should one look for? For hauling weight wouldn't a slightly longer wheelbase be what you want?

 

[Bubblehide]

Yes, I've built one specifically for hunting. I was using an entry level DoamondBack 29er. I motorized it, and bought another in the 27.5 version. I wanted an aluminum frame, and a heavy aluminum frame to boot. The heavier frame is stronger, and welds easier. So now I have a bike for areas motorized vehicles are allowed, and one for where they are not. The motorized version is totally customized, with the bottom tube cut off and replaced with 2 tubes of 6061 t6 mig welded, not tig. The motor mounts inside the triangle, fully protected. I added custom front and rear racks (heavy duty). I am currently working on the non-motorized bike, adding racks.

If you want to carry weight, you might look at a Bob trailer or something like it. But keep in mind, you can only carry so much weight on a bike, and most trailers are limited to about 45 pounds, unless you go with a custom built one (my next project).

There are a lot of good bikes out there, but fro hunting purposes, I'd go with a bike with an overbuilt frame (considering the use). Which generally means an entry level bike, rather than a refined standout that has every ounce possible cut out of it. You can always upgrade parts, but you want a frame that will hold up to the tasks asked of it. For hunting purposes, I am not sold on the light or ultra-light weight parts for bikes, as they just don't hold up to the abuses we put them through (there are some exceptions, based on material utilized). If you have a healthy budget, and want something bullet proof, go with a single sprocket and a Rohloff geared hub (a planned future upgrade for me). You may also want to consider the temps your using the bike in, in relation to it's breaking system. Mineral oil will freeze (most hydraulic systems use mineral oil), some take DOT oils. But for field repair, you might want a simple cable pull system, and carry an extra cable. By the way, you do want disc brakes.

 

[Lawnboi]

Thanks for all the responses. I really know absolutely nothing about bikes but have really been doing alot of research the last week. The more I read, the more I am thinking I may not really need a fat bike. I use my bike primarily to access deer and turkey spots in western Nebraska and eastern Colorado, and ride alot around town for exercise.
The more I read, the more I am thinking about a 27.5" tire, 2.8 or 3" in more of a "bikepacking" style bike. Anyone ever build a bike with the sole intention of it being a hunting bike? What kind of frame or geometry should one look for? For hauling weight wouldn't a slightly longer wheelbase be what you want?

I'll prelude by saying I don't hunt off a bike, but I do ride a lot off road.


These plus bikes (what you mentioned) are really a newer niche, and only way you would find me on a fat bike is if the terrain required it, and around here that means snow, if your terrain is not soft, requiring the fat tire, IMO a fat bike is a waste of energy.

As far as frame geometry, most long and slack bikes are designed for riding terrain you wouldn't likely find yourself on while hunting, they are also specialized for going fast over rough and steep terrain. Full suspension is also another option you will probably be pushed at a bike shop, IMO for hauling any load I'd opt for a hard tail.

Just my opinion as a mountain biker, if I were you, I'd get a decent hard tail, that will run some decent sized tires, much like guys are building for bike packing. It will be easier on your legs. Personally a 29er in a light aluminum or carbon fiber frame variety, running ~2.4 in tires, would get me by all spring, summer and fall very efficiently.

I'll finish by saying that like anything else you get what you pay for. Cheaper and heavier absolutely does not mean tougher when it comes to a mountain bike. The lighter and more refined your bike is, while still being able to handle the weight you plan on putting on it, the easier it will be to pedal.

 

[Lukem]

Fat bikes aren't just for sand and snow. My Mukluk is my commuter and gravel grinder as well. For a hunting bike you couldn't go wrong with either fat or plus, I'm not sure why anybody would go smaller than plus for any off-road anymore. Plus will be a little more efficient but the fat will be more stable. And more fun. Can't help but smile on mine.

Are you planning on doing any other riding than hunting?

 

[Titan_Bow]

I definitely will be riding more than just for hunting, but most of its intended "mission" will be off-road, or riding with my kids on gravel bike trails. I am leaning towards buying components and building it myself, to force me to learn it inside and out, but I am not completely sold on that idea yet, as I have alot of other "projects" that need to get completed this year

 

[Beendare]

These plus bikes (what you mentioned) are really a newer niche, and only way you would find me on a fat bike is if the terrain required it, and around here that means snow, if your terrain is not soft, requiring the fat tire, IMO a fat bike is a waste of energy.

Great post^^^ I totally agree. i'm a fairly big guy 6'3" 235# and do some mtn biking. I love the look of those fat bikes but gave a buddies Farley a shot and it was definitely more work climbing hills. The bigger you are the more you work against the tires. Of course snow is a whole different ball game.
Downhills are nice..its lie riding on air...but you lose a little maneuverability.
My buddies buddy in Helena rides a fat tire bike in the winter. He is about 130# soaking wet and he says its no problem to push a fire road with 18" of fresh snow.

 

[Floorguy]

Fatbike with a second 29er wheelset...best of both worlds.

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[Lawnboi]

Building a bike can be quite demanding depending on how crazy you want to go. Many specialized tools and standards in the bike world, and to do everything your self your Likly to spend a good amount on tools. Though doable, it won't really save you any money, and since you don't know what you really like in a bike, it won't matter much for you to pick your preferred componentry.

Reading more, it really sounds like you would like a somewhat aggressive 29er hardtail with some nice cushy meats on it.

I don't mean to hurt the fatbikers feelings, but yea they have thier place, fast and efficient dry terrain is not it for me. When I bike I want to get the most out of my bike not be pushing heavy, energy robbing wheels just for the sake of it. And don't be brainwashed, if plus and fatties were more efficient everyone would be racing them.

 

[Regul8r1]

The surly rear racks are rated for 80lbs, so you can haul a lot. If the trail is rough at all. I would leave the bob trailer at home.
Fat bikes are great for rough hard pack just lower the air pressure and roll over everything. I would suggest keeping a small ring up front (22) on any fatty. I know several guys that have single 28 or 30 tooth cogs and they push much more.

 

[Lukem]

I definitely will be riding more than just for hunting, but most of its intended "mission" will be off-road, or riding with my kids on gravel bike trails. I am leaning towards buying components and building it myself, to force me to learn it inside and out, but I am not completely sold on that idea yet, as I have alot of other "projects" that need to get completed this year

Yeah I'd caution you against a complete build if you aren't pretty familiar with bikes already. It isn't overly complicated but if something doesn't go quite right it can be maddening to solve. I'd work with a local bike shop and they might help you through it if that's the direction you want to go that route. Especially if you buy components through them.

I'd still go fat and get a set of 29ers like Floorguy said.