Best Bear Fence Wire - DIY Fence

treillw

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I'm planning on making my own bear fence. Plans now are to use a sureguard energizer, carbon arrow shafts cut to a packable length, fly line backing guy ropes, hollow copper pipe grounding rod or aluminum spike depending on results, and heat shrink as insulators on the arrow shaft. It should be about as light as you can get - guessing close to 2 pounds. I would like to have an ultralight setup for backpacking and then a heavier setup with the same energizer for car camping.

One thing I'm not sure about is what type of wire to use. For the heavy weight setup, I'm thinking about using polytape. Any thoughts on the type with the ground wire incorporated into the tape vs having a separate ground wire?

There are also a bunch of different types of wire out there for the lightweight setup. Any suggestions on one that works well? I know high visibility is key for the fence working. Is white the best color for at night?

Suggestions are appreciated!
 

Beendare

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I used the tape; lightweight, strong....but a little bulkier than the wire.

FYI, big issue with these Hotwire fences is getting a good ground. A poor ground gives you poor performance. I started with a tent peg....inconsistent....and ended up with a full on 1/2" Cu pipe 2 feet long.

Buy one of the cheapie fence testers [part of my kit] and you will see the difference a good ground makes.
 
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Thanks. This is where I got a lot of my info from as a starting point - don't see much about wires in it though. Good read!

First I’m clueless on bear fences. But I’ve ran hundreds of miles of hot wire in my life time.

For a good ground find a 18” or longer cooper ground stake, deeper the better the ground. Order them online.
 

go4thegusto

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I read about a new wire that has the power and ground spiraled in a common wire in case earth ground is dry (for bear). Sounded like a great idea but am unable to find it. If anyone knows who makes it that would be great.


On Kodiak we used carbon golf shafts (take-offs are free at most pro shops) poly wire and hollow 1/2 inch plumbing copper driven in 2 feet. Worked great especially when my buddy grabbed it to test. Never laughed so hard. He could feel it in his elbow for a couple days.
 
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Thanks. This is where I got a lot of my info from as a starting point - don't see much about wires in it though. Good read!

I got the Wyoming/Montana Gallagher rep’s phone number from the person I talked with at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center in West Yellowstone. The Gallagher rep specified the recommended wire, ground rod, and tester for the charger. He was super helpful and was very knowledgeable about electrical fences and best way to set them up. He sells a lot to bee keepers to protect hives as well as others to protect camps and cabins in the West. I don’t remember the name and number, just call the Grizzly center and ask for one of the guys that oversees the product testing at Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center.
 
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treillw

treillw

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I got the Wyoming/Montana Gallagher rep’s phone number from the person I talked with at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center in West Yellowstone. The Gallagher rep specified the recommended wire, ground rod, and tester for the charger. He was super helpful and was very knowledgeable about electrical fences and best way to set them up. He sells a lot to bee keepers to protect hives as well as others to protect camps and cabins in the West. I don’t remember the name and number, just call the Grizzly center and ask for one of the guys that oversees the product testing at Grizzly and Wolf Discovery center.

Excellent tip. Thank you.
 

oldgoat

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I don't think you'll get enough insulation with heat shrink on carbon, I used to have to run spark plug wire to get enough insulation, these things put out some very high voltages and can jump standard insulation values. When I used to run electric fence for dogs and livestock, the polytape sucked, but it still may be the best alternative for weight purposes.
 
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treillw

treillw

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I don't think you'll get enough insulation with heat shrink on carbon, I used to have to run spark plug wire to get enough insulation, these things put out some very high voltages and can jump standard insulation values. When I used to run electric fence for dogs and livestock, the polytape sucked, but it still may be the best alternative for weight purposes.

How do you tell if the current is jumping through the carbon when a shock is produced? Fence tester and not reading the max voltage?

Are you saying that polytape is lighter than poly wire?

Thanks!
 

Beendare

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I don't think you'll get enough insulation with heat shrink on carbon, I used to have to run spark plug wire to get enough insulation, these things put out some very high voltages and can jump standard insulation values. When I used to run electric fence for dogs and livestock, the polytape sucked, but it still may be the best alternative for weight purposes.

Consider the application. We are typically running the tape in a small area to protect tents. You don't need the large dia conductor size you need for miles long runs in a pasture. The tape draws its strength from the fiber...so it can use a smaller conductor....making it light, easy and visible.

Still the #1 thing with these fences is to have one of the small testers along. Sometimes you might not be getting a good ground...and without that your fence might only be getting a tiny crackle.....vs the attitude adjusting 'Wow, that thing gives you a jolt.' /grin
 
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How do you tell if the current is jumping through the carbon when a shock is produced? Fence tester and not reading the max voltage?

Are you saying that polytape is lighter than poly wire?

Thanks!

I tried standard heat shrink (rated for 600VAC) from work.....and checked with a fence voltage tester....it dragged the voltage down to approx 3000V. I then tested the wire with portable fiberglass electric fence posts and the voltage was approx 6500-7000V. I then laid a carbon arrow against the one of the hot strands with the arrow touching the ground...you could hear the electric arcing/discharging and the meter showed lower voltage. 3M and other companies make high voltage heat shrink. I would test your fence voltage at home to see what you have.
 

oldgoat

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I was talking about real wire, the little stands that run in the polytape and polywire break easily! Just watch for arcovers in the dark and listen for the snap
 
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Still the #1 thing with these fences is to have one of the small testers along.

This is what the Gallagher rep said as well..... now that I have used one, I agree 100%. It will let you know if you system is setup and working properly ... ie good ground, good connections, and if weeds or something else is drawing down the voltage.
 

rayporter

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test it !!!

I tested some heat shrink and it passed voltage for me. others said it was good insulation for them.

hold one end of the shaft and touch the fencer to the heat shrink while it is grounded. [ do make sure you are bare foot-no fair cheating with rubber shoes]
or hold the ground in one hand and the shaft in the other and touch the heat shrink to the hot side.

in dry ground, wet the ground often. maybe even mark your territory at the ground rod.
 

rayporter

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oh- wire.
as said the tape is bulky but it is definitely more visible. I use a mix of tape and fiberglass wire. you can get a lot of the small diameter wire on a ski rope winder and it will wind up very easy this way.

every year I have to repair wire that the deer run through many times. -the tape is not broken very often. the small fiber wire is broken many times per year. even the real aluminum wire is broken very often- 5 or more times per year.

the white is more visible than the yellow.
 
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treillw

treillw

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I tried standard heat shrink (rated for 600VAC) from work.....and checked with a fence voltage tester....it dragged the voltage down to approx 3000V. I then tested the wire with portable fiberglass electric fence posts and the voltage was approx 6500-7000V. I then laid a carbon arrow against the one of the hot strands with the arrow touching the ground...you could hear the electric arcing/discharging and the meter showed lower voltage. 3M and other companies make high voltage heat shrink. I would test your fence voltage at home to see what you have.

Will do in regards to the testing. Thanks for the tips. I wonder if putting two or three layers of heat shrink on the arrow shaft would help. It would still be lighter and less hassle than insulators, IMO.
 
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There are also a bunch of different types of wire out there for the lightweight setup. Any suggestions on one that works well?

Suggestions are appreciated!

Gallagher turbo wire is what I use.....pretty happy with it thus far.

Turbo Wire | Gallagher Fence

Here is the electric fence posts I used for test/compare against the carbon arrow shafts. I end up modifying them slightly (cut them into 2 pieces and used a coupling - to make it easier to pack) for my back country hunts when I used horses to pack in.

SunGUARD II 3/8 in. Fiberglass Step-In Post at Tractor Supply Co.
 
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