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I am shooting a Rem model 700 w/ a Timney trigger, muzzle break and aftermarket recoil pad using BUFFALO-BARNES PREMIUM LEAD-FREE 300 WIN. MAG. SUPERCHARGED 200 gr. Barnes TSX @ 2900 fps/ME 3,734 ft. lbs. I am looking to upgrade my hunting scope to something like the NF ATACR 5-25x56mm scope Mil-R but question if this is too much glass for hunting with my rifle.

I am not proficient in LR shooting and trying to expand my effective range from 200 yards to at least 600 yards and ultimately 1000 yards (just so I can say I can do it...would not likely take a shot like that at an animal unless I had already put a bullet in it and needed a follow-up). In fact, the only reason I wanna be proficient to 600 yards is so I can feel confident taking an animal at 400-500. But setting that aside, what would be the outer limit for this rifle and ammo (best guess)? Could it actually be 1100 yards?

Secondly, for those who have no experience with tactical scopes and turrets...how steep is the learning curve to effectively using one?

Lastly, though I have not tried it, there is also an alternative I am considering, the BUFFALO-BARNES PREMIUM LEAD FREE 300 WIN. MAG. SUPERCHARGED BUFFALO-BARNES PREMIUM LEAD-FREE 300 WIN. MAG. SUPERCHARGED - 180 gr. Barnes TTSX @ 3100 fps/ME 3,840 ft. lbs. How much difference would this make in LR shooting IRL? Measurable?

Many thanks.
 

ckleeves

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How does it shoot that ammo now? The biggest problem I have seen with factory ammo is the velocity swings are usually pretty big. Long range and factory ammo really just don't mix in my experience.


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Where's Bruce?
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How does it shoot that ammo now? The biggest problem I have seen with factory ammo is the velocity swings are usually pretty big. Long range and factory ammo really just don't mix in my experience.


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Shot it at 100-200 yards Monday and was dead on. Zeroed at 100 I was hitting the center dot every round. At 200 my groups were off as much as 3/4" but still easily in the kill range. At 300 steel I wasn't hitting at all. Thinking I need new eyeballs or better glass.
 

FURMAN

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What scope are you currently using? If you want to try another ammo look at the ABM with 215 Bergers.
 

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Shot it at 100-200 yards Monday and was dead on. Zeroed at 100 I was hitting the center dot every round. At 200 my groups were off as much as 3/4" but still easily in the kill range. At 300 steel I wasn't hitting at all. Thinking I need new eyeballs or better glass.

Or do you just not know your drops for the combo well enough? If you are truly clover leafing at 100yd there shouldn't be any reason to miss at 300yd other than not knowing how to get your point of impact in the right spot (either dialing or holding over).

I tend to like to dial esp. further shots but I can grab a 30-06 I rarely use with a non-dial VX2 which isn't anything special and just hold it over 12" (or whatever my dope chart says, I forget off the top of my head) and tag a 10" plate at 400.

I'd suggest getting a large paper/cardboard shoot at it for various distances so you can see where you are actually hitting versus where you are aiming for starters. That knowledge will carry forward even if you do change scopes.
 
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It's got a small, under-powered Nikon scope on it now...gonna try the Bushnell DMR 3.5-21x 50mm and learn how to use it properly.
 
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Bruce, if at this point in time, you only really want to be reaching out to 400-500 yards on an animal, I would seriously consider stepping down on the grain bullet your shooting. At those ranges, you really don't need such a heavy bullet, unless your in some significant winds. I would drop down to a bullet somewhere between a 140 to 165 grain. In that grain weight, those should be leaving the barrel at 3000+ fps, and still carrying more than enough velocity at and beyond your stated range. When you get proficient at 4-500 yards, and dialing, then you should step up to a 195+ grain bullet. In dropping down in grain weight, you will have a much flatter shooting bullet, out to the distances you state taking an animal at, thus minimizing any hold-over and or dialing. In obtaining a flatter shooting bullet, you minimize error, and are much more likely to accurately hit your desired target, where you want to. However, once you step up the distances, to more of a true long range hunting range, you will need to to be able to accurately calculate a solution, and be reliant on dialing. You will gain some of those skills on your way to the 4-500 yard shots.

In short, take it in steps, as it will take time to not only learn what you need to learn, but to put it into practice and become proficient. However, if you want to buy once, cry once, I support the Nightforce purchase, as you can easily grow into it; and if you decide it's not for you, I'd be more than happy to take it off your hands.
 
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If you want a hold-over scope, the Bushnell would likely serve you well. If you want to be able to Dial, I'd go with something that has a reputation for dialing and re-zero accuracy, such as the NF.
 

ckleeves

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What model is your 300? If it's a Sendero or something like that then then ATACR would somewhat fit it. If it's a lighter model then that scope is a bit large imo.


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907to406

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If its going to be primarily a hunting rifle I would highly suggest the Bushnell LRHS. It was designed to hunt with and I'm using it in PRS type matches with no problems at all. I have yet to hunt with it yet but what I like about it is the reticle is great for hunting and quick target acquisition and the windage turret is capped to prevent unwanted turning. Also its quite a bit lighter than other scopes in its category. I have shot steel 50 yards to 1300 yards so far with this scope on my 6.5 creedmoor with no issue at all. Its pretty tough to beat for the price and will probably be throwing the 3.5-12 model on my hunting rig.
 
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Jordan Smith

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If you want a hold-over scope, the Bushnell would likely serve you well. If you want to be able to Dial, I'd go with something that has a reputation for dialing and re-zero accuracy, such as the NF.

Are you familiar with the DMR at all? It's got a reputation approaching that of NF for reliability, durability, and proper function...
 

Jordan Smith

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It's got a small, under-powered Nikon scope on it now...gonna try the Bushnell DMR 3.5-21x 50mm and learn how to use it properly.

Good plan. That scope will work great for you, and will help you learn the ropes of LR shooting.

If possible, I'd save the TTSX bullets for closer-range hunting, and use something that is designed to expand at low velocities for hunting out past 400 yards or so- something with a high BC and good terminal performance, like the 215 Berger or a similar ELD, or something.
 
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Good plan. That scope will work great for you, and will help you learn the ropes of LR shooting.

If possible, I'd save the TTSX bullets for closer-range hunting, and use something that is designed to expand at low velocities for hunting out past 400 yards or so- something with a high BC and good terminal performance, like the 215 Berger or a similar ELD, or something.

Nonlead required in CA.
 

ckleeves

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I'm just throwing this out there, but if I were you I would buy something to learn on besides a 300 wm. Don't get me wrong, I love the 300 but it isn't the rifle to get truly proficient with.

Get a Tikka CTR or something like it in a 6.5 creed, 260, etc. Something that you can find accurate and reasonable priced factory ammo for. Your shoulder and wallet will thank you. You will learn quicker and it will be more enjoyable.

Put a decent scope on it and start shooting. Then shoot some more. If it isn't for you then sell it. They hold their value pretty well so it's not like your gonna lose much if you cut it loose. JMO.
 
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I'm just throwing this out there, but if I were you I would buy something to learn on besides a 300 wm. Don't get me wrong, I love the 300 but it isn't the rifle to get truly proficient with.

Get a Tikka CTR or something like it in a 6.5 creed, 260, etc. Something that you can find accurate and reasonable priced factory ammo for. Your shoulder and wallet will thank you. You will learn quicker and it will be more enjoyable.

Put a decent scope on it and start shooting. Then shoot some more. If it isn't for you then sell it. They hold their value pretty well so it's not like your gonna lose much if you cut it loose. JMO.

This is the rifle (I own several) that is the most reliable and straight shooting that I have in a heavier caliber. If the military can use it as a 1500 yard gun, I think I can get it to 600 but thanks.

Gotta PM recommending this NF:
Nightforce SHV 4-14x50 F1 .25 MOA-illuminated MOAR reticle C556|C556 - Nightforceusa.com

Seems like it may be both affordable and capable.

For someone with zero tactical scope experience looking to stretch his range for hunting by 200-400 yards (out to 600 yards total) without learning a whole new way to shoot, this scope appears to be a hybrid between a hunter & tactical scope.shv-f1-scope-nightforce-2.jpg


nightforce-shv-f1-scope-1.jpg

4x50mm F1 is the only scope in the SHV lineup that incorporates a first focal plane reticle. It is a large scope (14.8 inches long), well-suited to precision shooting with rifles at the heavier end of the spectrum- exactly the types of rifles most frequently used for long range shooting.

MIL or MOA Nightforce SHV versions are available using the MIL-R or MOAR reticles, respectively. The adjustments on the MIL version are in .1MIL increments while the MOA variants adjust via .25 MOA clicks. The 30mm tube provides an adjustment range of 90 MOA/26.2 MIL for elevation and 70 MOA/20.4 MIL of windage.

From a practical perspective, that means that a .300 Winchester Magnum firing a 190gr. bullet from a 100-yard zero shouldn’t run out of elevation adjustment until the target range exceeds 1300 yards, and that’s with standard (0 MOA) scope bases.

The elevation dial on this Nightforce SHV is exposed to allow for fast adjustments while the windage dial is covered to help prevent inadvertent movement. Personally, I prefer to dial for elevation and use the reticle for any windage corrections so this system works perfectly for me.

I shoot a .300WM and this scope only costs $1250 new.

Would I be better of with something like this? I have only a short window to get comfortable with the new glass before hunting season starts. My fear is that the more complex tactical scopes may be “over me head and needs” but I keep coming back to NF for the glass and features.
 
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Bruce,

Get a Bushnell LRHS 4.5-18 in moa configuration (this has a low profile elevation turret with zero stop and capped windage) These are awesome to have for hunting. This is also a FFP scope with excellent glass . Then get a kestrel and a good range finder. Loads of info on how to use kestrel. You then dial for elevation based on data you get from kestrel and pull trigger. Get a good bipod and go shoot. Reading wind will be hardest part but your Kestral will have a wind meter. Don't over think this.

Kestrel , Bushnell LRHS, Good range finder, Bipod.

(make sure you sight in gun with bipod as point of impact can change quite a bit vs shooting off bench. This can really mess a guy up at long distances)
 
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Not so long ago, I asked for some advice on a 338 long range set up. Broz, a guy with an abundant amount of real time experience offered me the following: " As for your optic choice, I question the use of a FFP? If you were going to shoot Matches like PRS with this rifle then yes, maybe a FFP. But if what you are going to do resembles what we do, then dont fall for the FFP hype. In my world I can do everything and more with my SFP scopes as you would be able to do with a FFP. In fact, I have both almost all the time on hand, and none of my long range hunting rifles wear a FFP. With that, I will offer you look at the tried and true Nightforce NXS in .25 MOA with the MOAR reticle. Or, if you want to stretch a bit farther look at the 5~25 SFP Nightforce ATACR. The ATACR is what we ran on the ELR all season on many elk hunts. "
 
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