Need help finding a load for my rifle

[maninthemaze]

Just to clarify, you can't fit a bullet in a freshly fired piece of brass or are you decapping/tumbling first?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Correct. A bullet won't fit inside a fired brass. I use a Lee universal decapping die to just push the spent primers out. Then I would clean in a SS wet tumbler, then FL size with a .315 bushing, clean again with the SS media, then begin the loading process.

The decapping die doesn't contact the brass at any point. Even without decapping I can't push a bullet in a fired case. Not even cleaning the ID of the neck to remove any carbon from the firing.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

And a bullet will not go inside without a substantial amount of force.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

And I just wanted to say THANK YOU for everyone who has posted, questioned, critiqued or made suggestion to this thread. Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated.

I even called most of the "gunsmiths" within about an hours drive from me to ask about looking at the throat of my rifle. Laughable to say the least. Seems around here, spraying Ceracoat means your a gunsmith. And when they ask what caliber it is and I say 28 Nosler. They say "28" with a very puzzled sound. I've had 5 that said they could look through the action with a flashlight.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

If I take a deburring tool and use it on the fired brass, I can get a bullet down inside like I should. Keep in mind, I deburred the brass after it came out of my tumbler, just before loading.

Why would my chamber be "crimping" my brass? My brass length is 2.568. Well below the 2.600 max

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

I think I might have it figured out. This fancy $#!@ing die set from Whidden Gunworks is crimping my brass during the bullet seating process. There is a slide that rides with the brass to center it thru the stroke of the press. It's supposed to contact the shell holder and then it has a spring inside. But mine hits the neck before contacting the shell holder, possibly crimping my necks.

I knew I should have stuck with the competition Redding dies.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[338maker]

If a fired case wont fit over a bullet its a neck dia issue for sure..


but On your Dies are you setting them up like a redding??? like say when you lower press ram down does shell holder contact the die base?? if so you are setting the shoulder back and rolling the mouth..

these dies come with a shoulder bump gauge and are set up to have a lot of spare room for bumping..

the aluminum piece in its own baggy is your SBG attach to calipers zero out and on fired brass adjust die so its bumping about .002" and set lock ring.

on your seater die put new piece of brass in, with the dial all the out and the course screw adjustment all the way out,,, lower arm and run die down until it stops. unscrew die a couple three turns until numbers are out and set ring then you wont make any contact with brass during seating. Make sure that when you insert 195 with dial on die all the way out you have enough to adjust bullet in and out as you see fit.

these dies are awesome and are exactly like redding but with added features such as the bump gauge and ability to set shoulder where you would like.

 

[HellsCanyon]

I think I might have it figured out. This fancy $#!@ing die set from Whidden Gunworks is crimping my brass during the bullet seating process. There is a slide that rides with the brass to center it thru the stroke of the press. It's supposed to contact the shell holder and then it has a spring inside. But mine hits the neck before contacting the shell holder, possibly crimping my necks.

I knew I should have stuck with the competition Redding dies.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Negative, you just didn't set up the dies properly. Put a sized primed case in the press and raise the ram, turn the body of the die down until it contacts the case neck/shoulder. Back off half turn and then adjust your seating stem. Have seen a few customers even push the case neck into the case body before by not setting up
the die properly.

Glad you're figuring it out and good job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

On the sizing die, I adjusted it where I was bumping the shoulder back .001-.002 I adjusted it like I would my Redding dies. I already owned the Hornady Headspace Comparator kit. But Whidden including one was nice.

On the seating die I set it up like in the video. I pretty sure he says to turn the die in, and that this isn't critical. I just know that when I have a piece of brass in the shell holder and raise the ram, the die doesn't contact the shell holder. The piece of brass hits the neck first and raises the "centering piece" by the neck.

Seater Die Setup Instructions - YouTube

I might have jumped to conclusions on the die set. These dies have just been a pain in the a$$ since I got them. First there wasn't a decapping pin, so I called and they sent me a whole new stem because they didn't know what diameter pin I had. Then, I noticed that something was wrong with setting the adjustment for the bushing. The die set didn't come with the lock ring that locks the decapping pin, and has the shoulder to contact the bushing. Next on the seating die, this die set just wouldn't back out far enough. Backed all they way off, it seated the bullet .200 farther down than I wanted it to. Another call to whidden. Turns out they have a short and a long seating stem. Mine was obviously too long. So they sent me one of those. While I was talking to them I asked for a set of instructions. They sent me the half page sheet I could print off the internet. Don't get me wrong, they have great customer service, they have sent everything free of charge. On my sizing die, I had to email them a picture of what I had, so they could send me what I needed.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[HellsCanyon]

I fault whidden for the crappy setup video. People will often run the die into where the actual die body contacts the shell holder instead of where the spring loaded collar is like intended. In my opinion it's always better to screw the seating die down on a sized case to where you feel the die contact the case, then back off 1/2-1 full turn. This ensures maximum case body support while seating bullets and could help with runout as well.

Mike


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

The actual die body doesn't contact the shell holder. Just the spring loaded collar. But that spring loaded collar doesn't touch if I have piece of brass inserted. It contacts the case mouth first.

I've called and left messages with Whidden. Hopefully they'll return my call while I'm at home tomorrow.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

And thanks again for all your help with my issue. I apologize if I come across as argumentative. I'm just really frustrated with this new gun. It's not all roses and daisies like when I had my 7wsm built, other than the added 3 month wait over their estimate.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

Well, just talked to the gunsmith at Whidden Gunworks. He said not being able to insert a bullet into a fired case is perfectly normal. He's "seen it all the time" and 5" groups at 400 yards "isn't that bad, it's just over a minute. I understand you want it better, but your rifle might not shoot that well"

So, I think I'll do like suggested and turn a dozen new cases. Load them with lower charges and ladder test again, hopefully somewhere around a 1000 yards. Probably gonna be more like 700. But that's all I can get. I'll find what charges have a flat spot and go from there. This Friday, I'll order a Magneto Speed.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

I think I'm gonna call it good at 79.8 grains, for now anyways. Might load about 10 more and shoot them farther. This group was shot at 400 yards. I'm glad I didn't go any farther, as I would have needed a much bigger target.

I can't get over the difference in the 78.8 and 79.2. It was really flinging them out.

This was with the brass neck turned down to .015 from the .016/.0165 it was. I was also using a new Magneto Speed chronograph. It took me a few rounds to get it figured out.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

Yep, I hate this gun. I loaded up 35 rounds at 79.8 grains and it's flinging them all over the place again. 3056, 3064, 3139, 3113, 3107. All with about 15 minutes between rounds. And with the new magneto speed chrono.

I wish I had my 7wsm back. I guess I'm gonna fling these bullets out and then go buy some H1000.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[YankeeHunter]

I'd change powder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

I'd change powder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I'm gonna try H1000. I know everyone says, R33, but I've read too many stories about how it's so dirty it has a very narrow window of accuracy. Like after 10 fouling rounds it's good for another 30-40 rounds before groups suffer.

So far my guns just sucks. I'm shooting right at 3" groups at 200 yards. Already check my scope rail and and rings. If the H1000 doesn't work, I'll recheck, my stock pillars, maybe one of them has come loose?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[danmayland]

I think I'm gonna try H1000. I know everyone says, R33, but I've read too many stories about how it's so dirty it has a very narrow window of accuracy. Like after 10 fouling rounds it's good for another 30-40 rounds before groups suffer.

So far my guns just sucks. I'm shooting right at 3" groups at 200 yards. Already check my scope rail and and rings. If the H1000 doesn't work, I'll recheck, my stock pillars, maybe one of them has come loose?

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

A few other things to check/consider. Make sure the trigger isn't contacting the stock or bottom metal in any way. Makes sure the action bolts are not making contact with the pillars in any way and play with the torque settings of the action bolts. I had a gun that would shoot shitty until I tightened the front action screw down to 65 inch lbs.

Also how are you shooting? Bench/prone and what kind of equipment are you using? Sounds like your an experienced shooter so I doubt it's a form issue. Are you using same/similar equipment as you used with your 7stw?

It could be a bedding issue also. It might be worth trying to find a different stock.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

Shooting prone off a bipod with a rear sand bag. And I'm definitely not an expert shooter by any means. My 7wsm weighed 14 pounds. This new one weighs 9 1/2. Maybe I'm just used to shooting a heavier gun.

I gave up on the chrono and took it off. Figured I'd burn threw these rounds and get some practice in. The gun still "feels" like it's at 3100. So far though, the groups tightened up considerably without that thing hanging on the front of the barrel. Right now it's shooting around an inch at 200 yards.

Thanks for the tip about the torque on the action bolts. I'm 99% sure the action bolts don't touch the pillars. This is my 6th gun that I've pillar bedded using Richard Franklin's stress free method. He really put out some great instructional videos.

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions Danmayland.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[danmayland]

Are you preloading the bipod or shooting free recoil? Also how much grip pressure are you applying to the gun?

I shoot exclusively free recoil meaning I don't preload the bipod. I won't explain why because that a long arguable topic. However my grip force changes between rifles. I use little to no grip on my comp gun however my hunting rifle is a completely different beast and I attribute that to the difference in weight between the rifles and the recoil. My comp gun weighs 16lbs and has little to no recoil. There are times when I shoot that gun that only contact I'm making with the gun is the pad of my trigger and only 17oz of pressure is being applied. This is true free recoil whereas not even my shoulder or cheek are touching the gun!!

My hunting gun however weighs 8lbs and likes to be sucked up tighter than bark on a tree. I suck it up tight. Then let off my grip a bit and execute the shot. I attribute this 100% to the light carbon barrel, recoil and muzzle rise.
-something to consider


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[maninthemaze]

I'm trying to load the bipod with just shoulder pressure and then using three fingers on my right hand to pull back into my shoulder, not a whole lot. Just applying pressure to keep the gun from kicking too bad. It definitely kicks, even with the brake on it. There's no way I could spot shots. It's got the slabbed mini muscle brake on it. 3 ports.

Also, as far as my 400 target picture. Have you ever seen a gun fling bullets nearly 14" vertical with only a 2 grain difference. Ryan suggested I ladder test at 1000 yards. I would have to use a sheet of plywood. There is definitely something wrong, somewhere. I just wish I knew what it was. I'm gonna burn the barrel up trying to find a load that shoots well.

Thanks again!!!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk