Best way to learn

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Sep 22, 2013
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Got upscale tactical scopes on two rifles and now need to learn how to use em so I can extend my range. Feeling like I'm in a bit in over my head. Shooting ranges are out...too loud to actually hear so I'm thinking I need someone with skills to show me how to use the features in the desert where we can shoot in a quiet place. Going from a BDC to MOAR difficult?
 

FURMAN

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I personally feel the best way to learn how to shoot long range is go on a prairie dog shoot. I have learned more shooting my 204 and 20VT for hundreds of rounds at a time than I could ever learn shooting my magnums. Shooting varmint rifles at 500 plus yards at small targets, in the switching winds, and unknown ranges will teach you a lot.
 

mt100gr.

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If nothing else, start punching paper at 100yards. Any trigger time is good trigger time.

Do you have a range finder? And are you hand loading?

You can definitely do it solo and be self taught - just need to start slow.

Once you have established your zero and are confident in that shoot some groups further out. Don't touch your scope, just make sure you have a tall enough target to catch your shots. Not talking steel here, punch holes in something and use your zero hold on the same aiming point. Now you're shooting some "drops" and collecting data.

Eventually, at 500 hundred or so, (on a four or five foot tall target) aim for zero and shoot a handful of shots. Measure that drop (distance from point of aim, to average point of impact) and compare it to a trajectory out put in your ballistics calculator. For instance, if your group prints at 35 inches under POA, cross reference that 35 inches and adjust your velocity input until your computer dope output matches up. If you have a chronograph you should be able to get close on your inputs.

That's a start, shoot a LOT at 100 to 500 and strive for consistency. Run hypothetical numbers through you calculator and it will start to make sense. Experiment with the different data inputs and how they affect your trajectory - environmental and velocity (don't monkey with BC if you have a bullet selected with a known BC. )

Shoot a lot!

There are many on here far more advanced than myself. This is just how I wish I would have started out. Consistency in everything you do is the key.

Shoot A LOT!!
 

LaHunter

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Check out the Long Range Hunting web site. There is some good info on their forum.
Also, I think Broz is part of a Long Range shooting / hunting web site. You may want to shoot him a p.m. Broz is a wealth of information and he has a knack for explaining things so they are easy to understand.
Good Luck
 

davsco

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what scopes and reticles did you get?

basically, zero your rifle at 100. then read the instructions on how to set your dial to zero. shoot your chosen load thru a chronograph 10 times and calculate your avg velocity (don't just use what the ammo box says). then look up the ballistic coefficient (bc) of your bullet. then plug those two numbers along with your scope height (center of tube distance from center of bore) into a ballistics program matching your scope (ie either MOA or Mils) with 25 yard increments. The program might say you need to dial 1 moa at 200 yards, so do that and see where you hit. Your hits should be pretty close to what your chart says, if not you need to see what may be wrong (ie one of the measurements may be wrong). Repeat at other distances. On top of dialing, also practice holding over, ie, using the reticle lines. So again at 200yds, if your chart says you need 1moa, then leave the dial at zero and put the 1moa line on the 200yd target and see where you hit.
 

V65Magna

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I just really started long range shooting about 1 year ago when I got my 6.5X47L. I put a 6.5 X 24 Vortex HST on it (MOA) and purchased the StrelokPro AP on my i-Phone. I am a reloader, so as soon as I got my magnetospeed bayonet sporter chronograph, I got some velocity data and I was in business. I only have access to a 300 yard range, but pretty much before I knew it, I was grouping 1/2 MOA with my 130 Berger VLDs out to that distance and the Ap and scope were performing as advertised. The Vortex HST is kinda entry level, but it works for me and the Strelok program (a whopping 14 bucks!) has a database with the different scope reticles and G1/G7 ballistic coefficients/drag factors for hundreds of bullets (or you can just punch in your own).

Like davsco says, zero your rifle at 100 yards and go from there. Practice both the dialing and the holdovers.

I got comfortable enough out to 400 yards to drop a couple of nice does last fall on crop damage. I ranged them with my Nikon Aculon, the Ap told me to dial in 4.97 MOA and I dropped both of them in their tracks. Now, I want to push the envelope even more this year. It's not rocket science and it's alot of fun!
 
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Where's Bruce?
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I got the NightForce SHV 5-20x56mm for my Rem 700 .300WM and a Trijicon 1-8x28 AccuPower scope for my R-25 (Rem AR10) in .308WIN...both with MOAR. I have no experience using a turret. Need to learn how to dope the scope and determine the MOA adjustments. I zero my hunting rifles at 200 yards. A good teacher will save me a ton of money on shots that may not teach me much. No time for learning to reload.
 

GrantMan

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In my experience learning to shoot long range takes time and money. I am in the self taught group and found out that having a weather station, chronograph, range finder and ballistics app was very helpful. You can get by without those items but it will take more time and ammo.

I found the easy part is getting the system dialed for drops at distance but the wind can prove very difficult to read. I have read about all there is about reading wind and I realize that it comes down to range time and experience to become more efficient at adjusting for wind.
 

Formidilosus

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I got the NightForce SHV 5-20x56mm for my Rem 700 .300WM and a Trijicon 1-8x28 AccuPower scope for my R-25 (Rem AR10) in .308WIN...both with MOAR. I have no experience using a turret. Need to learn how to dope the scope and determine the MOA adjustments. I zero my hunting rifles at 200 yards. A good teacher will save me a ton of money on shots that may not teach me much. No time for learning to reload.



Where are you located brother?
 
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South OC, CA. Near Camp Pendleton. Willing to drive a ways.

I hang steel out to 1k+ occasionally near tehachapi. You're welcome to come out and I can help you validate dope, velocity, and can record atmospherics such that you could build pretty damn reliable dope charts for 500 yards for various conditions.

You will want to practice more for anything longer or with considerable wind but it's a starting point.
 
OP
Where's Bruce?
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I hang steel out to 1k+ occasionally near tehachapi. You're welcome to come out and I can help you validate dope, velocity, and can record atmospherics such that you could build pretty damn reliable dope charts for 500 yards for various conditions.

You will want to practice more for anything longer or with considerable wind but it's a starting point.

I'll take you up on that offer when I'm ready. First I need to wrap my head around some basics. Where I need the most help is in grasping MOAR and learning how to utilize the new scopes' capabilities. Tried to find some courses on this but struck out. I registered for the 2 day Appleseed Project course and was greatly improved at the end of the first day but was so sore when I woke up the next morning I couldn't even see myself driving to Riverside to attend day 2. Ate Motrin like it was candy that day.



If I can get to the point when I can hold a decent grouping at 600 yards I'd be happy. It would make taking a 300 yard shot in the field much easier. As a bow hunter I prefer to close the distance but sometimes that is flat out impossible. I enjoy shooting for recreation and took the kids to the range frequently. But Tannerite targets set up in a desert canyon was their favorite. <g>
 
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I could cover basics on the scope and make sure you've got it set up properly pretty quickly.

You need to validate your drops to use the MOAR reticle or turrets, using the reticle and turrets is the easy part. Once you have set data in MOA for drops and wind deflection you either dial to the appropriate correction on turrets or hold the appropriate part of the reticle on the point of aim. On a second focal plane scope like your SHV you need to make sure the scope is on max power to ensure the reticle subtensions are accurate. Most people prefer to dial elevation and hold (use reticle subtensions to account for) for windage.
 
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Where's Bruce?
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Signed up for a precision rifle course at FrontSight in Nevada later this month. It's just a classroom course (no actual shooting) but should help me digest the info you guys are feeding me. As an added plus...it gives me an excuse to go to Vegas.

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deadwolf

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Bruce, if you are so inclined, go check out the you tube channel of the National Shooting Sports Foundation and find the video playlist by Ryan Cleckner. Watch all of that.

Rifle Cleaning - Long Range Shooting Tip - YouTube

(Don't let the title of the video fool you, that's just the first video in the series)

Then go and buy Ryan's book on Amazon or your retailer of choice. You will get quite a bit out of that, I guarantee it. Sounds like you're lined up with some good classes too.

I am still learning to stretch it out there myself, but I have found Ryan's teaching style to match very well with my learning style and makes it very easy for me to grasp. Good luck!

(PS, if you have more time than you know what to do with, you can watch all 101 videos of Sniper 101 from TiborasaurusRex on youtube as well!)
 
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Formidilosus

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Bruce,

I haven’t forgotten, just had a trip come up.





There are a number of good books on the subject.

One of the best is this one:

The Practical Guide To Long Range Shooting

It's a step by step guide to extending your range, with a focus on hunting.



I have not read this book, but have read another from the same author and based on the amount of shear errors and falsehoods, I would suggest being careful suggesting it.
 
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