Long Range Reloading: Redding FL Standard Die vs. Redding FL Bushing Die

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Great video Sam. Thank you very much. You make it all look so easy. I do not run the Redding bushing dies but maybe need to switch and try it out.
I run all my spent cases thru a cheap Lee Universal Depriming die but it is just on my one and only press. I do not have a dedicated press just for depriming. I deprime first and then run all the dirty deprimed brass thru a SS tumbler so that it is clean prior to resizing, priming, dropping powder, etc.
 

Retterath

WKR
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So i bought a redding type s match die set in full length about a year ago and just never used it because i wasn't really sure so just set it aside. So my question is when resizing the brass with the bushing, that i don't have yet, do i take out that decapping pin to resize with the bushing? The full length sizer looks like the regular one with the decapping tool and the expander, so when depriming do u take the expander off?
 

Retterath

WKR
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Is this expander not like the one on the regular dies and is smaller so it won't be resizing your neck.

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WestDan

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I decap with a separate universal decapping die to keep my competition bushing dies cleaner, then I clean the brass. Once clean, I will run them through the body die if bumping the shoulder and then the neck bushing die to size down the neck. I take out the decapping rod and expander and just use the bushing (currently using around .015 tension).
 

Retterath

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Is the decapping tool in the type s kit different than the regular resizing die. like sam said in the video the regular resizing die and decapping does it all at once, now does that work the same way in the kit about in the bushing die with the decapping tool will that expander screw with your neck like the regular one. Am i making any sense?
 

Retterath

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u can ignore the last post i think i know what your talking about now. So then u just unscrew out the the decapping rod and expander and just use it with the bushing? Does it matter for a universal decapping die or all of them good?

Since i just started load testing for my 7wsm do u think is should just wait until i get a bushing for my bushing die or just continue to use my plain o rcbs full length resize die? Also do u think there would be some differences if a guy was reloading with the regular die and then started with the new bushing die that it might give u different groups or different extreme spreads? Thanks for all your help guys.
 
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Awesome video Sam, much appreciated. I'm new to reloading and have been using the Redding Deluxe FL die for my 300 WSM, but I'm striving for the utmost precision with all my brass prep and was about to pull the trigger on a Redding bushing die.

I did see one other video that mentioned you should keep the expander ball in the bushing die when resizing brand new unfired brass. Just wondering why this is the case?

Appreciate your help!
 

WestDan

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u can ignore the last post i think i know what your talking about now. So then u just unscrew out the the decapping rod and expander and just use it with the bushing? Does it matter for a universal decapping die or all of them good?

Since i just started load testing for my 7wsm do u think is should just wait until i get a bushing for my bushing die or just continue to use my plain o rcbs full length resize die? Also do u think there would be some differences if a guy was reloading with the regular die and then started with the new bushing die that it might give u different groups or different extreme spreads? Thanks for all your help guys.

The universal decap die will work just to take out the spent primers. Then you can unscrew the decap rod and expander in the bushing die as long as it's once fired brass. You may want to get a carbide expander for new brass or brass that gets the neck bent. You should wait until you can make some dummy rounds to order the bushing for your neck tension. Most guys use .01 to .02 tension. I would suspect you would get some tighter groups using the bushing die and controlling neck tension. You would also probably notice better brass life.
 

Retterath

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i measured my loaded round at the neck and got a .313 and using winchester brass. should i use .01 or .02 does it matter?
 
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Sam Millard
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When you get new brass, not only can you have dented necks, but the amount of tension in the neck will likely be high. With the last batch of Lapua 260 brass I used, the necks were perfectly straight, but if I would have loaded them right from the box, I would have ended up with .006" neck tension. I always run new brass through an expander die, or just use the expander that comes with the bushing die; after that, I remove the whole rod assembly. I decap in a separate process.
 
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When you get new brass, not only can you have dented necks, but the amount of tension in the neck will likely be high. With the last batch of Lapua 260 brass I used, the necks were perfectly straight, but if I would have loaded them right from the box, I would have ended up with .006" neck tension. I always run new brass through an expander die, or just use the expander that comes with the bushing die; after that, I remove the whole rod assembly. I decap in a separate process.

Understood, thanks for the clarification. I have a separate decapping die so I plan to get the Redding Type S and use it as you described.
 
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For you guys that use the bushing dies IYO are the Titanium Nitride bushings $12 better than the plain steel bushings? Thanks
 

WestDan

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i measured my loaded round at the neck and got a .313 and using winchester brass. should i use .01 or .02 does it matter?

It could matter. Some people don't like the idea of .01 or less tension because of the chance for the bullet to pull out of the case and spill powder. You can check your groups to see if it likes one tension better, but most guys I know use ~.02. I think redding recommends .01 now though.
 

Retterath

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On that fl bushing die set that I got that recapping pin along with that expander, I pulled it out and put a piece of brass through that expander and the case neck slides right past it with ease so is that really an expande? I also noticed that there is a little black piece in a zip lock bag that will screw into where the expander is if u take it out, what does that do. Sorry for all the question guys
 

WestDan

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On that fl bushing die set that I got that recapping pin along with that expander, I pulled it out and put a piece of brass through that expander and the case neck slides right past it with ease so is that really an expande? I also noticed that there is a little black piece in a zip lock bag that will screw into where the expander is if u take it out, what does that do. Sorry for all the question guys

shoot me a PM and we can chat. I would follow up with Sam too as he certainly has more experience than I do. I use the competition bushing dies which are slightly different from your Type S dies.
 
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Sam Millard
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On that fl bushing die set that I got that recapping pin along with that expander, I pulled it out and put a piece of brass through that expander and the case neck slides right past it with ease so is that really an expande? I also noticed that there is a little black piece in a zip lock bag that will screw into where the expander is if u take it out, what does that do. Sorry for all the question guys

If you are depriming in a separate process, you can unscrew all that crap below the knurled knob, and toss it:) Keep the short black piece directly under the knob, as this keeps the bushing down in the die once the knurled knob is screwed down.

The only reason you need that expander piece or the small black piece, is to hold the deprime pin in place.

Removing the rod will also save your bacon if you stick a case. Simply remove top knob and use a punch to remove the case.
 
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