Another shout out from me for the Stu Miller calculator.
I’ll echo others regarding it’s only as good as the data being supplied. Granted it may not cover every conceivable permeation it will cover most and at least get you close enough that some tweaking will pretty much buff out any remaining...
Switching to 3 under may require an increase in your nocking point height, alternatively depending in the bow you’re running you could adjust the tiller.
JP I’m in northern Melb, i’ve got a Kifaru hunting frame with Mahkor bag you’re welcome to check out to help you work out which way you want to jump if that’s any help.
Depending ong what you want to do, ie. just contain the pack or stuff a bunch of other stuff in.
The travel tote I have used a number of time with great success, low key and anonymous
Travel Tote | Sea to Summit...
Using a set of nock pliers and gently squeeze using the tip of the jaws to pop apart where one end of the nock joins the other.
If that's unclear let me know and I'll post a couple of photos.
You can tie in a new nock using a length of serving, when done correctly this can be fine tuned by...
I agree with with earlier post re the hazards of jerry-rigged/diy shot trainers.
The Astra being the more stable setup of the 2
Rigid Formaster Archery Training Aid
Astra Archery Shot Trainer Training Aid
I've used their cottonproof on a wind-proof British DPM smock, it worked as advertised. They did have a reputation for truthful advertising of their products, I don't know what the current status is however.
You can purchase off the rack with regards to the string, I presume you have a local bow shop?
Get yourself a stringer such as a Selway. The shop can show you how to use it correctly.
3Rivers Archery Longbow & Recurve Bow Stringer - YouTube
Stringing the Recurve Bow - YouTube
I concur with the statement re riser mass. Of the 2 Black Widows I have the one with the Ironwood riser is the one I prefer, why? It has a heavier riser and feels more settled.
This will be old news to those that have been Trading for a while but for the just new to Trad you will be surprised...
I probably should add that when I made the first made the switch to Trad the compound I was using a 70# PSE Phase 2, the recurve I got was a 55# Samick. The prevailing wisdom at the time, 1991, was that you generally drop about 15# from your compound weight. A lot of the mid/late 80s compounds...
Given that the OP is unsure that they want to commit longer term to traditional archery I'd suggest starting with a decent quality bow (that suits your budget), carbon shafts ie Gold Tip Hunters (a good lower budget option), don't worry about broadheads until your ready to commit and have your...
You may want to look at Black Eagle as I understand that a number of their bare shafts are 34" (which you may have already done)
Alternatively you could use the Gold Tip weight system which allows you to add weight to either the front and/or rear to fine tune.
Given your draw length your ILF...
Hoyt Quattro are the high performace/spec limbs.
I realise that this may not be relevant in this instance however I think it's information to keep in mind when considering a takedown bow, specifically those with a ILF connection in the expectation of using any limb you want that has the same...
Carbon shafts with lots of weight upfront isn't a problem in itself but rather making sure you select the appropriate spine for the amount of front loading that is occiring. The greater the increase in the front end weight the more an arrow spine acts dynamically weaker.
I realise for most that...