Yoke, Rest or Grip?

Brandon Pattison · Aug 4, 2014

I hate the idea of changing grip.

20 yards

littlebuf · Aug 4, 2014

Where were you aiming?

tipsntails7 · Aug 4, 2014

Bow? And how consistent is the bareshaft like that?

Evergreen · Aug 4, 2014

Is it just the one arrow? Is the problem consistant? Did the one arrow possibly hit another and deflect to that angle?

Brandon Pattison · Aug 4, 2014

Consistent with bare shaft. Spyder turbo. Center mass.

jmez · Aug 4, 2014

I would use yokes to get them together.

doverpack12 · Aug 4, 2014

If your broadheads shoot alright I would think about not changing anything at this point. Is that black nock the same as the other X nocks? Did you shoot more than one bareshaft arrow have you rotated the nock a quarter to a third of a turn on the bareshaft. Are you really squeezing and following through on the shot?

El Gavilan · Aug 4, 2014

Put a half twist in the top right buss leg and see if that fixes it. . Won't take much.

Mike

Brandon Pattison · Aug 5, 2014

doverpack12 said:
If your broadheads shoot alright I would think about not changing anything at this point. Is that black nock the same as the other X nocks? Did you shoot more than one bareshaft arrow have you rotated the nock a quarter to a third of a turn on the bareshaft. Are you really squeezing and following through on the shot?

There is no black nock. I have not tried another bare shaft nor rotated nocks. Good point.

I will try 1/2 twist in right yoke.

Brandon Pattison · Aug 5, 2014

Same results. The bare shaft seems to kick up. Paper tuning from about 8' yields all high tears. Frustrated!

mt100gr. · Aug 5, 2014

I would play with my nock point. Try moving it up ever so slightly. Or better yet, try wrapping electrical tape around the nock end of the bare shaft to simulate the weight of the vanes. It might be that the tiny difference in weight at the tail of the arrow is throwing things off a bit. Try that first, then the nock point move (or lower your rest a 32nd)

Brandon Pattison · Aug 5, 2014

mt100gr. said:
I would play with my nock point. Try moving it up ever so slightly. Or better yet, try wrapping electrical tape around the nock end of the bare shaft to simulate the weight of the vanes. It might be that the tiny difference in weight at the tail of the arrow is throwing things off a bit. Try that first, then the nock point move (or lower your rest a 32nd)

Are your adjustments backwards?

trophytaka · Aug 5, 2014

alotta different stuff could be the factor. dont forget bout the easy stuff, knock pinch, excessive facial contact with the string, blah blah.

mt100gr. · Aug 5, 2014

If it's kicking up through paper I would make an up or down move. Either nock point or rest. I would start with the rest, as it's easier and won't move your peep location in relation to your nock point. Mark where it's set now and just try something to see if there's an effect. If it gets worse, go the other way....just don't make so many moves you lose track of where you started. I would limit it to up or down only via the rest OR nock point. Just move one of them until you rule it out as a possible cause. Good luck.

Also, has the bare shaft been shot as much as the other arrows? Or is it's nock not as "broken in"? Maybe pull a nock from one of your arrows and try the bare shaft with a different, more used nock....

El Gavilan · Aug 5, 2014

Did the half twist get rid of the tail right condition? If so then raise the rest about 1/16" and that should get rid of the tail high condition.

Mike

Brandon Pattison · Aug 6, 2014

trophytaka said:
alotta different stuff could be the factor. dont forget bout the easy stuff, knock pinch, excessive facial contact with the string, blah blah.

What does nock pinch yield? It could be a bit tight.

Brandon Pattison · Aug 6, 2014

mt100gr. said:
If it's kicking up through paper I would make an up or down move. Either nock point or rest. I would start with the rest, as it's easier and won't move your peep location in relation to your nock point. Mark where it's set now and just try something to see if there's an effect. If it gets worse, go the other way....just don't make so many moves you lose track of where you started. I would limit it to up or down only via the rest OR nock point. Just move one of them until you rule it out as a possible cause. Good luck.

Also, has the bare shaft been shot as much as the other arrows? Or is it's nock not as "broken in"? Maybe pull a nock from one of your arrows and try the bare shaft with a different, more used nock....

The nock is well used.

Brandon Pattison · Aug 6, 2014

El Gavilan said:
Did the half twist get rid of the tail right condition? If so then raise the rest about 1/16" and that should get rid of the tail high condition.

Mike

Pretty much. I want to check via modified French tuning. Too busy today.

I will post up results.

trophytaka · Aug 7, 2014

if there is excessive nock pinch that can sometimes cause poor arrow flight which equals bad ju ju down range. I like to be able to wiggle or be able to slide the nock up and down just a tiny bit (talking appx. .015 thou on each side of the nock above and below) when the bow is at resting position. if theres no room, at full draw your tie in points will be adding a good amount of pinch to your nock. I think Dudley has a good vid he posted bout nock pinch you can research. also you can purchase large or wide groove nocks to help this issue.

trophytaka · Aug 7, 2014

Large groove nocks highly recommended.

Yoke, Rest or Grip?

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