Conicals

MuleyFever · Mar 21, 2015

So last year I was sure I was in for a ML tag in CO and got passed up by point creep. I got some suggestions on conical to use in my T/C encore pro hunter. With another season in the books I am looking for some fresh suggestions on what worked for people. I am again expecting to draw a tag.

Also anyone have any new suggestions for a finer front sight that will fit an encore pro hunter?

muleman · Mar 21, 2015

I like big heavy No Excuses conicals if your twist rate will stabilize them.

MuleyFever · Mar 21, 2015

I am pretty sure the twist rate is 1:28.

Mike21 · Mar 23, 2015

I hunted ml for elk in colorado for a few years. I had the best luck with hornady ftb conicals, 300 grains for my TC .50 cal worked best. Also grouping was highly dependent on amount of powder, mine did best with 100 grains of triple 7. The ftb killed a couple elk very fast, I was impressed although both were shorter ranges.

robby denning · Mar 24, 2015

If you're T/C has the recessed crown (it's called something else but I can't think of it), you might not get good accuracy without lots of tweaking. Sabotloader had a solution posted on here at one time that was working using a small patch of some sort (can't remember that one either- more coffee please!!!!) and some guys were saying it worked very well.

Sabotloader? you here?

30338 · Mar 29, 2015

Not Sabotloader, but using a felt wad over the powder charge can help a lot. Going to hopefully draw an antelope tag this year and will be shooting patched roundballs again. If I was doing elk, it would be maxiballs or no excuses. Some guys are cutting off the QLA on their T/Cs with good success.

MuleyFever · Mar 29, 2015

30338 · Mar 30, 2015

QLA - Quick Load Accurizer, which actually makes it less accurate in many cases. About an inch of barrel at end with no rifling.

MuleyFever · Mar 30, 2015

So taking the barrel in and having the end cut off and re crowned has helped with the accuracy? Am I understanding you correctly?

sabotloader · Mar 30, 2015

robby denning said:
If you're T/C has the recessed crown (it's called something else but I can't think of it), you might not get good accuracy without lots of tweaking. Sabotloader had a solution posted on here at one time that was working using a small patch of some sort (can't remember that one either- more coffee please!!!!) and some guys were saying it worked very well.

Sabotloader? you here?

I and others had tried wool wads under the bullet but still did not really get the results I would be looking for.

What I suggested was a MMP Sub base under the bullet. This came about for me because I was shooting 50 cal sabotless bullets from my Knights/Whites. For me they worked better than wool wads.

With the success I was having I suggested online that someone with a TC rifle try them and see if they might solve the QLA problem. Because of the way TC drills their bores it is possible that the bore does not line up concentrically with the barrel. Which really will not effect accuracy but does effect the cosmetic appearance of the rifle. An easy fix for TC is then drill/install a QLA on the muzzle to hide the small alignment error. The problem is that the QLA does not then line up evenly with the bore.

I made this drawing to help possibly explain the real problem of the mis=alignment...

These pictures show the knurled 50 cal bullets and the installation of the Sub-Base while using a Knight

After this success I did suggest that using the sub-base might be a fix for the QLA. A few people have tried this and reported back success with the procedure in a TC with a QLA.

30338 · Mar 30, 2015

MuleyFever said:
So taking the barrel in and having the end cut off and re crowned has helped with the accuracy? Am I understanding you correctly?

Yes, that is correct.

gmajor · Apr 3, 2015

I've got a bunch of Hornady Great Pains Bullets in 425gr for my .54. I know they're not "premium" lead, but I'm wondering any of you guys have shot them with much success.

robby denning · Apr 6, 2015

I shot some 50 cal Great Plains with average accuracy. Did not hunt with them.

MuleyFever · Apr 8, 2015

What is the minimum distance I can shoot and still get a good look at down range accuracy? I will be hunting open sights, probably a peep, for CO so my max distance is probably 100 yards or so. I want to shoot a few conicals from different manufacturers to find the best one for my gun. I have a 1x scope on it and sighted in so I thought I would leave that on to help with keeping my aim point consistent. Obviously the closer my target the more consistent I will be able to keep my aim points on the target. Should I test at 50 yds? Does it matter? Should I just shoot at whatever distance I feel allows be to keep a good point of aim and then assume the tightest group at that distance will also be best at 100 yds? I suppose I could take the best 2 from the shorter distance and test them at 100. Any advice?

stevenm2 · Apr 25, 2015

I sight in at 50 yards then adjust for 100. I can regularly put 2" + groups together with Peep sights and aging eyes at 100 yards.
I was shooting no excuses 460 gr. and Bull shop 460 gr. I have since started casting my own 490 gr. with pretty much the same results. It is hard to tell how good your load is with peep sights. I have heard of guys putting a scope on for load development the use that load for peeps as required by your state regs.
I have had good luck with the MMP sub bridge it has made my groups better than a felt wad.

robby denning · Apr 29, 2015

stevenm2 said:
I sight in at 50 yards then adjust for 100. I can regularly put 2" + groups together with Peep sights and aging eyes at 100 yards.
I was shooting no excuses 460 gr. and Bull shop 460 gr. I have since started casting my own 490 gr. with pretty much the same results. It is hard to tell how good your load is with peep sights. I have heard of guys putting a scope on for load development the use that load for peeps as required by your state regs.
I have had good luck with the MMP sub bridge it has made my groups better than a felt wad.

Good advice. 50, then 100. Put a 4x4 foot sheet of card board behind your target when developing loads. It'll catch the mistakes/flyers and you won't be wondering where the (expensive) bullet went if you miss your primary target.

I think it's worth the time to develop your load with a good scope (3x9 or so). Once that is done, you only need to site your peep in. Removes one level of potential frustration i.e. "is it my load or is it my peep?"

If you go with the XS system, it mounts on a Weaver style base so it's a cake walk to mount a scope, develop load, take scope off, put on the peep. I don't even have to leave the range to do it. Just swap it out right from the firing bench.

MuleyFever · Apr 29, 2015

Good advice. I ordered some MMP sub bridges, a peep and picked up some 350gr Hornady FBPs. Hope to hit the range this weekend.

COlineman78 · May 2, 2015

I have hunted ML in CO for almost 10 years. I draw every year now, so don't know what unit you are applying for, but one thing that we have noticed in CO is that the earlier you apply the better your chances, so get it in the day it opens. As far as T/C rifles go, they don't really like pure conicals, however Power Belts are legal in CO and I have always used 295 aerotips. I have made kills out to 150, but am only comfortable going past 100 when prone.

Conicals

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