New to trad and need arrows

Ben

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Hello all,

I've been wanting to get into traditional archery for some time and finally picked up a recurve off Camofire. However, I must admit, I'm not into the technical side of archery. Could someone recommend me an arrow? I have a 28.5 inch draw length and 45lb bow.

Thanks,
Ben
 

go4thegusto

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I find there is better consistency with a slightly higher spine arrow. Especially when shooting forward weights (100 or 75 brass insert an a 200 broadhead) I would try the new woodgrain Axis Easton arrows that come with brass inserts. Get the 400 size and you will be fine. I shoot that shaft with my 47, 51, and 54 lb longbows. I used to use 500's but my groups shrunk with the 400's. Good Luck
 

Steve O

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2016 aluminum or a .500 spine carbon (35/55). Start full length with a bare shaft and trim down to the length your bow wants. Don't just go to what you "think" your arrow length should be.
 

LaGriz

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My 2cents,
I would go the other way and would try the 500 and 600 spine shafts. I shoot a 3 recurves that are close in there poundage. 51# @ 27" - 48# @ 26 3/4" - and 53# @ 28" - all shoot best with the 600 sine gold tips or Beman MFX shafts. The 400 spine shafts group high left and are less forgiving for a less than perfect release or form. All bows are straight limb model Bighorn Takedowns. My go-too bow likes 45-50 douglas fir woodies that are 4-fletched and weigh 580 grains with 140 Gr. head. The Gold tips have weight tubes that put them around 520 grains each. The MFX shafts now discontinued, are the toughest and most durable shafts I have ever shot. I also once shot a friends Arrow Dynamics arrow in a 500 spine hunter-lite model that flew very well. They are designed to be "weight forward" and these were 3-fletched (hard)left-wing and flew like darts. All my tips are in the 150gr. range. Your slightly longer draw length may put at the cusp between a 400 or 500 spine. Best to try them in a correct length and play with different tip weights. I shot over spined for years and almost gave up the trad bow because I could not get consistant. The correct arrow solves a lot of problems and can let you focas on other issues to get you to another level. LaGriz
 

Beendare

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Ben, what you ask is not as simple a question as one would think.

Stickbows are extremely finnaky when it comes to correct arrow spine...thus as Steve O mentioned, its best to start long with trial and error method to get it exact- a bit tedious. Its tough to do this as a rookie with erratic form...as you have to bareshaft test and with poor form nothing will barshaft tune [shoot] correctly [that is bareshafts shoot to the same POA as your fletched arrows]

You can download the 'Stu miller calculator' -free-and if you plug in your specs correctly it will get you in the ballpark. You can probably get both 500's and 400's to work depending on your point weight/length. Many shoot an arrow on the longer side to use the end of the arrow as a reference point....the longer it is the shorter your point on distance.
 
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Ben

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Thanks for all the input!

I've found some test packs from 3 rivers archery that comes with a few options that I might get. I also might just get some cheapos and focus on my form instead of the target.

One more question... I like the idea of using wood arrows... Does the performance/accuracy loss make wood arrows a 'less than perfect' idea of a beginners?

Thank you all for your advice. I'm jumping into his with both feet and I really appreciate your help.
 
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Thanks for all the input!

I've found some test packs from 3 rivers archery that comes with a few options that I might get. I also might just get some cheapos and focus on my form instead of the target.

One more question... I like the idea of using wood arrows... Does the performance/accuracy loss make wood arrows a 'less than perfect' idea of a beginners?

Thank you all for your advice. I'm jumping into his with both feet and I really appreciate your help.

If you want consistency at a reasonable price then you should start with aluminum shafts. The least expensive will be the Easton Game Getters, it is a black shaft. They shoot fine and are durable too. I agree to start with the 2016/400 size. You can use a simple pipe cutter from Home Depot to cut them down a quarter of an inch as you work your way to the right length. Use hot melt glue to secure the inserts so you can take them out using a lighter to melt the glue when you want to shorten the shaft.

Larry
 

Beendare

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One more question... I like the idea of using wood arrows... Does the performance/accuracy loss make wood arrows a 'less than perfect' idea of a beginners?
.

The only 'advantage' to wood arrows is that they don't clink when you bump them into something...carbon and Alu make far better shaft matl. Now if you want to be more trad than the next guy shoot wood. if you are only shooting max 20 yds then what does it matter the shaft? If you are shooting longbow class in certain tourneys you HAVE to shoot wood. Wood arrows are usually larger dia then most other shafting too.

Wood works...and its cool...its just they aren't as easy maint as some others.
 

Steve O

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Wood arrows are a LOT of work. They are inconsistent at best. They are romantic but I am done with them. Not worth the effort to me.
 
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Ben

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I ended up going with 2016/500 Easton game getters and 125 grain field points to start off. I've been watching recurve tuning videos on YouTube and have a lot of work in front of me. Thank you all again!
 
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Ben,

Don't cut them too short to begin with as you search for your perfect length. Leaving them long is not a sin and ignore anyone who tells you that your arrows must be 28" or any specific length. They are only showing their limited experience and limited knowledge of arrow tuning. For example, my arrows are 31" long because I have a longer than average draw length. It started our around 28" but as I shot more it grew to 30". I also like to leave an extra inch out front to a) make sure that I don't hit my hands when I reach full draw and b) to allow me to wear heavy ski gloves to keep my bow hand warm in the dead of winter when I often do much of my hunting.

Also, keep in mind that you can make your arrows "weaker" or less stiff by going up in point weight and "stronger" or stiffer by going down in point weight.

Good luck,

Larry
 
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Ben

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The tunning is not going as fast as I thought as I am not getting to shoot as much as I'd like and my shot groups are not very tight. As of now I'm working on form and tightening the group then I start tunning. I don't have much time left as I'd love to use the recurve this year but with the lack of time to learn I might dust off the compound...
 
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Tuning my new recurve has me scratching my head. 45#@28". I fletched up some older carbons I had for my compound for the time being. They are a 27" XT340, standard insert, 50gr weight, and 125 grain heads. They fly like darts and this arrow is crazy stiff. I was planning on going with the Goldtip Traditional 500's but now I'm not so sure as those have been kicking right out of my bow.:confused:
 

Steve O

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Tuning my new recurve has me scratching my head. 45#@28". I fletched up some older carbons I had for my compound for the time being. They are a 27" XT340, standard insert, 50gr weight, and 125 grain heads. They fly like darts and this arrow is crazy stiff. I was planning on going with the Goldtip Traditional 500's but now I'm not so sure as those have been kicking right out of my bow.:confused:

That sounds odd for sure. Is it a Black Widow?

Bare shafts group with fletched shafts?
 

Steve O

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Well it sounds like it is not broke so don't change anything :)

I'd guess it is not cut past center on the riser, allowing a stiffer spine. Black Widows are notorious for that.
 
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