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Thread: DIY Tipi
6 Days Ago #21
I was just looking at some of the .9 Silpoly on RSBTR the last few days. Do you think the thinner material would hold up well enough for a full tipi? I guess for some reason I associate thicker with stronger, but I know there's a point of diminishing returns and realistic "needs" for strength.
6 Days Ago #22
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5 Days Ago #23
Beendare - Thanks for the info. Very helpful for finalizing my list.
WoodBow - A Luci Lantern just went on my list. The bulky one I have now is crap. Thanks for the recommendation!
I think that I read both Kifaru and Seek Outside use 30D, which would be in the 1.3oz range. I'm considering the 1.1 and 1.6. Any advice on that decision is appreciated.
Sketchup is absolutely the best. I use it all the time with my clients, but also for anything I'm building. It helps me comp things up to exact specs without having to actually comp with materials. It has saved me a ton of time.
4 Days Ago #24
I haven't used that exact fabric. I am currently working with the heavier version of it for a wall tent[ modified version]
I was having this discussion off line with Torrey....hunterprey
I can tell you this. I've had issues with the Silnylon rip....and it just keeps going. Its good stuff...but some of the silpoly is much better. I really like the idea of this rip stop material for hunting applications. If we were just backpacking and could baby our gear its less of an issue...but on hunts we want a higher degree of durability- right? IMO we do.
The Silpoly I have has a very fine Dyneema thread woven in. I haven't tested it much real world.....hopefully someone that has will chime in. Last thing we want is a branch to poke a hole....and it turns in to a 20" run [beentheredonethat!]
I'm currently using the 1.1oz silpoly PU 400 and the 1.6oz Hyper D PU 4000 [for the roof as its a big tent for horse packing]It takes no more time to see the good side of life than to see the bad. ― Jimmy Buffett
"You don't drown by falling in the water; you drown by staying there. ― Edwin Louis Cole
4 Days Ago #25
I'm completely with you on having something with strength. Particularly when it comes to what's keeping me sheltered from the elements.... I think there's always the worry/balance between light but strong enough. I'm leaning strongly towards the Silpoly and not worrying about any cat cuts. Not sure I'll go the PU4000 route, maybe the step under that though. I really appreciate all the sharing and advice on here. With the time investment, along with the cost of materials, I want to do it "right".
3 Days Ago #26
I used 1.3 pu nylon. What are yall referring to as silpoly? Polyester coated with silicone? I am not familiar with that variety. Are you referring to pu nylon (nylon treated w polyurethane)?
3 Days Ago #27
Silpoly is manufactured from polyester fibers as opposed to nylon, then coated or impregnated with silicone.
3 Days Ago #28
Hunterandprey - For the top cone, my advice would be to #1, don't sew around the bottom of the cone, only do vertical stitching on the seams, and #2, do it by hand. My first attempt I sewed the bottom of the cone all the way around the tent, but because of the difference in stretch of the materials, it created a lot of bad tension points. I undid the seam and then on my next attempt I only sewed the cone along the vertical seams and this worked perfectly, no more bad tension points. I started off sewing the vertical seams on my machine but it was a bear to deal with all that material. After a lot of frustration i pulled out a hand needle and went to town. Although it took a while, I was much happier with how the cone was attaching to the apex of the tipi. I could control the stitching a lot better and in the end, the extra time was worth it.
For material type, i highly recommend Silpoly. It is quite a bit easier to work with (compared to Silnylon), and it doesn't sag when wet. Some tests show that it's rip strength is less than similar weight silnylon so I went up one weight to the 1.6 Silpoly from RSBTR (1.77 actual weight). For my shelter the overall weight difference between 1.1 oz Silnylon (1.24 actual) and 1.6 oz Silpoly totaled about 9 ounces. This was a small price to pay for a much more manageable sewing experience, increased rip strength (over 1.1 Silnylon), and no sag. For a shelter as big as mine, i'm not going for the absolute lightest thing possible. I can shave 9 ounces out of my pack pretty easily elsewhere to make up the difference.
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2 Days Ago #29
Thanks for the great info. I wouldn't have thought of the stretch issue at the cone, but that makes some sense. When you say you stitched on the vertical seams, did you leave the bottom of the reinforcement material (cone) open and unstitched? Did you just use a circle of material for the peak but only stitch vertically, leaving the material between seams unattached? I hope that makes sense...
2 Days Ago #30
2 Days Ago #31
I don't have any experience with the 1.1 silpoly PU4000. I'd love to try it out for my next project though. One thing to remember with the PU4000 coated fabrics is that the coating is applied to one side only. So you have to be careful how you cut your panels out of the fabric to make sure the coated side faces out. This may require buying more material than if you went with the regular silpoly. But at $7 a yard, it shouldn't hurt too bad. If I am able to start my next shelter soon (using 1.1 Silpoly PU4000), i'll let you know how it goes, and how the material performs.
2 Days Ago #32
gudspeir - yes, that's exactly what I did. The bottom of the cone, in-between vertical seams, isn't stitched to the tent. My reasoning behind this is the seams take most of the tension since at one end is the tie out at the ground, and the other is the pole. If I can utilize the 4 layers of the flat-felled seam to transfer the tension, rather than the single layer Silpoly, I should be in good shape. I've been meaning to start a thread detailing my project; if I get the time i'll do it soon. I learned some good tips along the way that should make it easier for anyone doing a mid/tipi project. Hopefully I can save some people a few headaches, and help them get a better finished product.
2 Days Ago #33
Thanks for all the info, guys. Flydaho, this kind of detail is exactly what I need. It helps so much to learn from others' experiences.
Feel free to throw photos onto this thread until you get the time to post your own. I'm sure everyone would enjoy checking them out!