Changing from a 350 spine to a 300 spine How much sight changes has to be done

[gsfeagans]

So I have been shooting 350 spine arrows out of a Mathews V3 74# 28" draw arrows are 28.5" Arrows are 100 grain head with 50 grain outsert. I have done well with the 350, but have noticed a flex in my arrow and looking at specs I should be shooting a 300. So I am going to buy a dozen and was wondering how much sight change will I have to make going from a 350 same set up to a 300 with the same set up?

Can anyone tell me if I am looking at a lot of new sighting in and changes or maybe adjusting up a little?

Thanks

 

[IrkedCitizen]

If you buy a .300 spine that has the same GPI (grains per inch) as your .350 spine then your new arrows will weigh the same. Thus you shouldn't need much if any adjustment at all.

If you want to use the same exact shaft but in a stiffer spine it will likely weigh more which will slow down the speed therefore needing adjustments.

But to give you an exact amount of adjustment just isn't possible

 

[joshdidthis]

The biggest factor for your tragetory is gonna be arrow weight. What arrows/gpi are you shooting or looking to shoot? I'm guessing you could get a 300 to be the same weight as your 350s but you'd have to change arrows. Also you could shorten your arrows to stiffen your dynamic spine. Do your broadheads tune good?

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[Mighty Mouse]

All arrows flex. If your 350 spine arrows are grouping well with broadheads and hitting alongside field points, there's no reason to think you need to switch to 300's (regardless of what any spine chart/calculator says). If they're not, try to get them tuned before you go to the hassle and expense of switching arrows. IMO 350 spine should work fine at your specs even if the charts/calculators say they're on the weak side. At 28.5" you should have room to trim your current arrows down by an inch or two if you do conclude that they need to be a bit stiffer.

 

[MattB]

You will likely have to re-sight every pin. But more importantly that shaft change also means you will need to re-tune your bow. That is a lot more complex a process than re-sighting.

 

[Jon_G]

In my short time posting on here and doing quite literally months and months of research on many aspects of archery, if there is someone you listen to its mighty mouse. Which I see he already responded to your question. I like to read about archery even if I know the answer to a question because you can never know too much, and you'll find that there's not really any info that will contradict mighty mouse. I really mean that. The man has tons of knowledge.

 

[Eastonsgrandpa]

I’d start by cutting your arrows shorter and therefore stiffening the spine. At a 28” draw, you could cut them to 26” carbon to carbon. You may not need new arrows at all. Since they are inserted, strip the vanes, pull the nocks, and cut from the back.

 

[Night_owl]

Archers advantage has a pretty cool tool that lets you enter all the specs for your bow and then you can plug and play different arrow variations and see the results of your inputs.

Home

Archers Advantage provides versatile software tools to assist archers in achieving maximum performance on the range and in the field

www.archersadvantage.com

 

[CB4]

I also shoot a v3 at roughly 75lbs and 28.5" draw. I have actually always had 250 spine arrows fly better than 300. However I just build some 300 BE Spartans and so far they are flying great. You should be able to cut atleast an inch or more off your current arrows though. At my draw length my typcial arrow is 27 1/8"

I have shot the following arrows out of this bow.
300 Gold Tip Pierce Platinums
250 BE Rampage
300 BE Rampage
250 BE X Impact
300 BE Spartan

Without knowing what arrow you are currently shooting it is hard to tell what adjustments you would have to make. You could be shooting a heavy GPI arrow where even going up a spine but changing arrows could cut weight. Or it could go the opposite way.

 

[jbelz]

If you change one thing, everything changes. Don't take this the wrong way (because it's genuine advice) – your question makes me believe you're at a place where there is much more to worry about, starting with tuning. Nobody here will be able to answer your question, because they don't have your equipment and they are not you. Once you figure out how to tune your bow from A to Z effectively, you'll find out if you need a different arrow, and probably lots of other cool stuff.