Which riser to get? (Hoyt Satori)

[NewHarvester]

I'm learning Trad. archery right now and I think I've decided to go with team Hoyt once I become proficient enough to nail bullseyes consistently.

I sent an email off to Hoyt to inquire about this but I'm unsure if I'll receive a response back.

They have three different size of risers to choose from: 17, 19, and 21. Why are there different sizes, what is the function/purpose and which one should I look to acquire to make the most accurate shots possible?

 

[dlee56]

Theoretically longer bows are more accurate so you’d want the 21. I tried a 17 and didn’t like the feel at all. I have the 19 and it’s been a good middle ground for me. In the end I’d trial them all the be sure.

 

[Beendare]

Wide open question….

What is your intended use? Target shooting, hunting?

What is your draw length?

There are some good sticky threads on Archery talk in the Trad section…and literally any question you can think of has been answered there.

You are talking ILF risers and limbs- ILF stuff is interchangeable. Limbs come in short, med, long, XL. 19” riser makes a bow; w/ shorts 60”, med 62”, long 64”

I have a 30.5” draw length. I can shoot a 62” bow OK, but prefer a 64” for hunting. typically guys match the bow to their DL...but not always.

The general rule is that longer is more forgiving…thus the target guys shoot 25” risers and 68”-72” bows

Best advice- start very light…like 30-35#. Even with a 30# recurve, You are still holding double the weight of a compound.

Cheap ILF limbs are still very good…and good to learn on.

THE KEY, develop alignment and good form.

Compounds are easy..and forgiving…trad bows aren’t.

 

[Beendare]

Satori is a good riser..but there are literally 100 others.

With trad bows, its literally like a hammer…….its way more about the shooter than the bow…

 

[NewHarvester]

Wide open question….

What is your intended use? Target shooting, hunting?

What is your draw length?

There are some good sticky threads on Archery talk in the Trad section…and literally any question you can think of has been answered there.

You are talking ILF risers and limbs- ILF stuff is interchangeable. Limbs come in short, med, long, XL. 19” riser makes a bow; w/ shorts 60”, med 62”, long 64”

I have a 30.5” draw length. I can shoot a 62” bow OK, but prefer a 64” for hunting. typically guys match the bow to their DL...but not always.

The general rule is that longer is more forgiving…thus the target guys shoot 25” risers and 68”-72” bows

Best advice- start very light…like 30-35#. Even with a 30# recurve, You are still holding double the weight of a compound.

Cheap ILF limbs are still very good…and good to learn on.

THE KEY, develop alignment and good form.

Compounds are easy..and forgiving…trad bows aren’t.

I'm taking lessons currently trying to develop my 'form.'

Rest assured I'm not going ANYWHERE near one of these things (or even thinking about going hunting) until I can consistently nail bullseye after bullseye after bullseye. Obviously I'd like to go hunting with it, but for shooting targets in regards to keeping my skill in check, wouldn't a hunting bow suffice to keep me in it?

Right now I have a 30# Samick Sage, but some guys on here said its basically a bag of ass. Good for developing my form with but I don't intend to take it hunting, just to hone in on my skills and develop my form. Once I develop my form and get good enough to consistently hit bullseyes then and only then will I get a better bow. I plan on hunting larger game, like elk and moose, so I'm going to need at least a 55# bow with heavier arrows. What size of riser and limbs should I get though?

To answer your question about draw length, I don't think I was formally measured for that. I was given one of the larger recurves in my archery class to use. I've been doing okay with it, I stand 5'11tall and the one instructor said I have longer arms.

 

[Beendare]

Ok funny.

FYI, Lots of deer have died from a Sage. What you will find with trad;

1) it’s not the bow it’s the Indian
2) you don’t need a lot of kinetic energy to kill critters

My old 45# setup just blew arrows through everything- big hogs, deer, Javelinas, Moose

The moose gave me 2 shots- 2 arrows like a hot knife through butter on that 800# critter.
That bow didn’t make 40KE
I drew a CO cow moose tag
(Sorry, crummy photo, I shot her right at dark, and she died in a creek 15 feet away)

The secret that will save you a lot of time: good arrow flight and 2 blade BH’s… everything else is gravy

I know guys that
killed a bunch of critters with 40# recurves.

You are probably around a 28 inch draw. 60” bow or longer works.

Good on you getting lessons- that shortens the learning curve.

Das, satori, trad tech, Junxing F261 ( also goes by other names) dryad, all good ILF metal risers

Lots of good name brand ILF limbs- Alternatives services UK is your friend. Try the WNS C3 or C5 for less than $150- great limbs or Uukha Gobis about $350

 

[BrandonPP3]

Hey op- I’ve got an almost new satori complete setup I don’t need now. hit me up if you have questions or are looking to get one.

Overall I really like them and think they solid feeling/strong due to the metal riser. To me they are a good mix of a traditional bow feeling with more modern technology/feeling as well. Some like that, some don’t.

I originally went with this because I like Hoyt’s products and felt it was a good value. I’m pleased with it but have moved to the prairie and frankly I’m not nearly good enough at this trad thing to kill at the distances I seem to be typically in.

 

[Shawn Hultquist]

Longer risers also have a bigger sight window as well. Some people need that larger window while others can function just fine with the smaller picture.

Something to consider


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Te Hopo]

I'm taking lessons currently trying to develop my 'form.'

Rest assured I'm not going ANYWHERE near one of these things (or even thinking about going hunting) until I can consistently nail bullseye after bullseye after bullseye. Obviously I'd like to go hunting with it, but for shooting targets in regards to keeping my skill in check, wouldn't a hunting bow suffice to keep me in it?

Right now I have a 30# Samick Sage, but some guys on here said its basically a bag of ass. Good for developing my form with but I don't intend to take it hunting, just to hone in on my skills and develop my form. Once I develop my form and get good enough to consistently hit bullseyes then and only then will I get a better bow. I plan on hunting larger game, like elk and moose, so I'm going to need at least a 55# bow with heavier arrows. What size of riser and limbs should I get though?

To answer your question about draw length, I don't think I was formally measured for that. I was given one of the larger recurves in my archery class to use. I've been doing okay with it, I stand 5'11tall and the one instructor said I have longer arms.

The best trad bow hunter I know personally has used a Sammick Sage for 15+ years and dropped many animals with it.
It's often pigeonholed as 'only a beginner bow', yet he spent a bit of time shaping the grip to suit him and he loves it.

Best bet is to try and find somewhere or someone who can let you try different length risers and bows.
I have a Black Hunter 15" riser, a F261 17" riser and I have tried 19" and 21" risers.

As much as I like the compactness of the Black Hunter, the 17" riser with medium limbs is the sweet spot for me and it's taken me a bunch of time to really dial that feeling in.