Arrow help.

PNWTO

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 20, 2017
Messages
124
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E. WA
I am eagerly awaiting a Dryad Orion RC and don't know where to start when it comes to arrows. I have emailed the bowyer as well so I will share any info in case people are in my situation.

I have a 32" draw length, verified multiple times by multiple people. The bow will 40# @ 28", so for me it shy of 50#. I know black eagle makes 34" arrows but aside from that I am a little lost. I would like to run the RMS broadheads with an EFOC, if possible. Anyone else have gorilla arms?
 

Beendare

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May 6, 2014
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8,247
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Corripe cervisiam
Just get something close to start and don't worry so much about tuning. your form will be so inconsistent to begin with you more than likely would get tuning readings all over the map due to form. Concentrate on form.

Then once you develop good consistent form, start Bareshaft tuning
>>>---------->

EFOC....why?

So you are going to take the advice of one guy....vs the Easton engineers recommendations and every single pro shooter? [none shoot very high FOC arrows- Zero.]

Good luck with that.....
 

John Havard

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Oct 10, 2016
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Hansville, WA
Long draw lengths require long shafts (obviously) and the longer the shaft the stiffer the shaft that you'll need. Increased point weight requires increased spine and vice versa. I draw 31 1/2" and shoot .280-deflection shafts that are 32 1/2" long. With our Dryad bows you (to some extent) tune the bow to the arrow. If the arrow is flying weak you can put a toothpick or something small underneath the strike plate to build it out. Long draw lengths are your friend but place a bit more demand on choosing the right shaft/point combo. Mike (at Dryad) also draws long so he can help you out with arrows & points.

I shot this bull with one of our ACS recurves, Gold Tip Kinetic 200 and TuffHead 300 grain single bevel broadhead. Draw weight at my draw length was 51#. The arrow entirely cut through a rib going in, angled forward through a LOT of moose, struck the off-side shoulder knuckle and stopped. It would have been a complete pass through had the off shoulder not stopped the arrow. Your setup will be good for most anything.

I don't know of any compound shooter that believes in EFOC but I do.

John
 

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bhylton

WKR
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Jan 28, 2015
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570
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-MT-
you can also build your strike plate out to make it further from center shot to except a weaker shaft. that would make it easier to achieve higher foc. and give you more options. for the money i stayed with .246 Inside diameter shafts so i could use GT 100gr brass inserts.
 
Joined
Feb 21, 2015
Messages
663
Location
florida
Only change one thing at a time. at a min shoot 10GPP. Razor hair popping sharp broadhead and highly preciosion shot placement are key. also knowing how the animal is going to react at the shot.

you will shoot right over the back of a few at first until your brain gets the right drop calculator figured out

Shawn
 

TWP

FNG
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
66
Call Danny, Tommy or Alex at RMSGear, and ask them. I shoot a 60# bow at 31" and a 300 spine with 200 grains up front. I highly suggest you let the flight of the arrow dictate your head weight choice. I shoot a full length axis or GT arrow, but that extra inch you have may really dampen any hopes of getting super heavy point weight. Especially if you are only shooting 50lbs, you are trying to shoot a log with a bowling ball on the front without a ton of umph behind it. I shoot through everything I aim at with my set up, but it is more due to great arrow flight and not EFOC or whatever. Not sure how you plan on shooting, but if you do load up that arrow your drop at 30 yards is going to be nuts. Up to you though, have fun with it and don't get too wound up about numbers. This stuff is hard enough without the number crunching. ha ha ha
 

oldgoat

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Mar 5, 2015
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Arvada, CO
You can order over length arrows straight from Goldtip I've heard but never tried it, I was pulling your draw length at one time but was overextending myself and backed back down to a paltry 31" draw. One thing I've figured out, the longer your arrow the harder it is to build FOC, I finally really chased the efoc and I ended up at 29% and did it by going with a really light micro diameter arrow, Victory VAP with their 100gr insert/outsert and 250gr cutthroat. It's hands down best flying most forgiving arrow I've shot. You can get the GT Pierce in .250 spine I believe and it seems they came in slightly longer length than the Victory but I'm not sure, like was mentioned above, call rmsgear and talk to Alex. I know he's built some of them recently. The high FOC does help the arrow come recover quicker giving better performance down range, with the arrow I talked about earlier, it was 30gr heavier than my previous arrow and I noticed no difference in my point on range which is around sixty yards. Also the high FOC allowed me to go to a much smaller feather and still have killer broadhead flight. When you have a really long draw and can't trim arrows to tune, you have to really be creative and use every trick you can, high FOC, build strike plate out, play with brace height etc... Not sure if you realize it, but John Harvard who responded above is one of the guys that was in on the development of the ACS limb from Dryad and you can take his advice to the bank!
 
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