Help! Broad heads hitting low!

[Olbadae]

I am still shooting slick trick 125 magnums and a BowTech experience. 68 pounds draw and 29 inches drawl length. Shooting carbon express Mayham hunters 350. I have been able to dial in the broadheads to my field points right and left But no matter what I do my broadheads always had high. They were hitting about it inch high at 30 yards for turkey this spring so no big deal but as a move back to 40 50 and 60 I they hit exponentially higher. I have tried moving my rest up and down I can never find an equilibrium with a hit in the same spot or my broadheads it below my field points for that matter. Getting a bit frustrated as I want to be able to reach out to 70 with these as I think that’s my max cold bow effective range. Right now my alternative before I go on my hunt is to simply shoot rage or something like that. Please give me any ideas I am open to learn thanks much!

Adam


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[S.Clancy]

Prob an arrow issue. Just adjust your sight for broadheads. Also, if they were hitting high in the spring, you likely had time to to try some things out before now.

 

[Olbadae]

I definitely had time but used it to practice shooting. I thought I would simply need an extra hour or so at the range to dial in but it didn’t work out that way. I would adjust the rest up and they would get closer but and some point they would start to separate again. Same thing if I adjusted the rest up. I still have 3 more weeks before I go so I should be able to implement any ideas that are given.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dirtclod Az.]

Are your arrows matched to the # and draw length of your bow? check on the charts for what arrow suits your bow,sounds like the arrows aren't stiff enough

 

[kipper09]

Had something similar happen to me and I put a slight helical fletch on it and it solved all my issues. Not sure that’s your answer but if you have time to try it, it may work..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Olbadae]

Thanks guys. Arrows match and should be more then stiff enough but one never knows for sure. I’m liking the ideas of reflecting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[S.Clancy]

Your shafts are almost certainly weak with your current setup. Best thing to do would be add weight to the nock end of the arrow either in heavier vanes (i.e. max stealth @9+ gr per vs blazer @ 7 gr per), adding a wrap, or using a lighted nock. You may have to use a combination of those 3 before you get enough weight to stiffen up the arrow. FYI, I shot an older 70lb guardian with a 28" draw, and w/ 125 up front, 340's were weak. I would invest in the PinWheel software, it's $40 but will save you $100's. Good luck.

 

[tracker12]

It's hunting season. If your getting good flight Sight the bow in to 70 yards with your broad heads and go hunt.

 

[dtrkyman]

Cam timing issue possibly, if they are consistent you could sight in with the broadheads but there is likely an issue that will fix it.

 

[neverquit]

Every single time I’ve tuned broadheads and a rest adjustment doent achieve the desired affect I’ve found a arrow contact issue some where

 

[oldgoat]

Did you make an appropriate adjustment in your nock height when you adjusted your rest?

 

[2blade]

arrow spine is to weak. You need a 300 spined arrow for that bow

 

[Olbadae]

I’ve only adjusted the rest..... maybe that’s where I’m going wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Olbadae]

I wonder if moving to a 100g point would help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Boreal]

You’re not underspined. And definitely don’t add weight to the nock end. How much have you been moving your rest when you adjust it up and down? These are tiny adjustments, like 1/64”. If you’ve moved more than that at a time, it’s time to start over.

First, make sure your rest is as close to centershot as you can get it. Then make sure your nocked arrow is parallel with the string at rest. That’s the start. Paper tune, if you want to. I usually skip that step.

Walk-back tune. Set a target up and hang a plumb line straight down the middle of the target, with a line crossing the plumb line at the top. Start at 10 yards and using your 20 yard pin on the crossed lines get your sight windage adjusted to hit the plumb. Once you’ve done that, move back to 20yards and use the same pin at the same aiming point. One arrow. Make no adjustments. Walk back to 30 yards and shoot the same pin at the same point of aim. Make no adjustments. Do that same thing as far back as you can go and keep your arrow on the bale. When done, look to see if your arrows shot from greater distances drift consistently to one direction. If your centershot is off, your arrows will move farther from the plumb line with increasing distance. To adjust, move your rest tiny (1/64”) increments in the direction you want your arrows to go. If they are right if the line, move the rest left.

Do the same walk-back procedure and see what you get. Move the rest those tiny increments until you get your arrows all on he plumb line.

Then sight in your other pins.

Put a broadhead on one arrow, and a field point on another. With a well sighted pin, shoot the broadhead at a point. Then shoot the field point at the exact same aiming point. If they don’t hit the same point, there is still a little more rest adjusting to do. Again, tiny increments. If the broadhead hits high and right, adjust the rest a tiny increments to the left or down (the direction you want the broadhead to go). Important to only adjust along one axis at a time. Sometimes adjusting one fixes both. Shoot the broadhead and field point at the same aiming point again. Continue with minuscule rest adjustments until your field point groups with your broadhead. And shoot the broadhead first, otherwise you’ll have to refletch an arrow when your groupings get close.

There are other methods, but this is relatively quick and works.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[S.Clancy]

I wonder if moving to a 100g point would help?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, try a 100 grain point before doing anything else. This will at worst rule out weak spine, tho my hunch is decreasing point weight solves all your problems.

 

[tracker12]

I’ve only adjusted the rest..... maybe that’s where I’m going wrong.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have not done anything wrong. To adjust your impact you can either adjust your rest OR your nock. Moving your rest up or your nock down does the same thing. You should set you D-loop in the proper place and use your rest to make adjustments.

 

[GregB]

I had the same exact problem this year. I was too close to leaving for my hunt to change my arrow set up, or get my bow retuned and have to sight in again. I ended up making sure my sight was zeroed to the broadheads and was able to kill an elk with no issues. Since you have the time I would try to correct the issue, but from my limited amount of experience it's not the end of the world. I will be going to the shop now to see if they can help correct the issue. I'll follow up it I find a solution.

 

[Olbadae]

Went to the shop afterwork and had him check the cam timing. He put 1-1/2 twists to advance the top cam. I think that’s quite a bit. I did put a new string on this spring. I wonder if it stretched ? Going to try broad heads again tomorrow after work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[isu22andy]

You’re not the only one with these issues . I’ve been shooting bows for years and never had field points hit with broadheads past 30 yards . I can get them close enough to hunt - softball size but after that forget about it . Been to two “professional “ shops and one big box store. No “tune” they did seemed to help and I absolutely hate practicing with broadheads . No wonder mechanicals gain popularity .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk