Mechanical to fixed

[williamson88]

Thinking about jumping to a fixed head after this season. Wondering who else has and what head you went with.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Sevobuck]

After losing a bull elk this year, I am never shooting a mechanical again. Over the years I fell victim to advertising and started using mechanicals. Using a fixed blade takes more time to tune your arrow but in the end penetration is king. There is so much energy wasted with the impact of a mechanical broadhead and the deployment of its blades. Cut in contact fix blade is where it’s at.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[williamson88]

After losing a bull elk this year, I am never shooting a mechanical again. Over the years I fell victim to advertising and started using mechanicals. Using a fixed blade takes more time to tune your arrow but in the end penetration is king. There is so much energy wasted with the impact of a mechanical broadhead and the deployment of its blades. Cut in contact fix blade is where it’s at.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with wasted momentum, I've always used mechanical heads as all we have is whitetails where I'm from but grabbed some slick tricks and muzzy trocars to try

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[AZElk]

Some good fixed heads that I have tried are:
-Grim Reaper Micro Hades 3 Blade
-Grim Reaper Micro Hades 4 blade
-Iron Will Solid 125gr.

With all of these fixed heads I was able to group the same as my field tips after a good bit of tuning. Some other heads that are very nice to shoot are in the Hybrid category. I used to shoot the Gravedigger broad heads religiously until they were sold to Pllano Centergy. The new Grim Reaper Hybrid and the Muzzy HBTI are very impressive. I have a good bit of experience shooting the HBTI and all I can say is wow. They flew fantastic and are durable as all get out. I have sent them into rocks and stumps without any issue. I hope this gives you some more ideas on what heads to look at for your upcoming hunts.

 

[stickbowcoop]

I am a big fan of fixed blades, always have been. I used a mechanical once 18 years ago. Rocket mini blaster. I killed and found the doe but it didn't open (the rubber band was still up on the blades, no idea how that happened but it did). But after that I threw them all in the trash and I went back to fixed blades. I really like QAD Exodus when using replaceable blade heads. Otherwise I like heads like Magnus, Solid Legend, Iron Will, etc. The last two are very pricey but both performed excellent for me and are very tough heads.

 

[Beendare]

I like a strong cut on contact head with a heavy main blade that has decent taper in 2 or 3 blade....and made of good steel with a decent Rockwell hardness. Lots to chose from. Of course you have to BH tune...but what you find is it makes for a smoother/quieter bow as BH tuning finds the 'sweet spot'.

What we see with BH's is, everything works most of the time. I want something that will put 2 holes in them, everytime.

The short heads put a lot of blade in contact with hair and hide...I like the idea of keeping those blades razor sharp all the way through the animal....I've had cases where the short replaceable heads didn't do that.The replaceable blades can lose their sharpness easier since they are so thin....vs the heavy blades with a wider bevel that hold their edge better.

 

[williamson88]

What everyones stps for tuning I've recently shot the muzzy trocar they fly good and the slick trick inflictor which flew ok but hits 2-3" low

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Boreal]

I picked up some Solid Legends before they were sold and now have some Iron Will Solid 125s. Both are fantastic and fly true and quiet from a well-tuned bow. They are pricey, but I have a good sharpening system and have no problem sharpening the broadheads when they need it. Buy them once and shoot them for years. As for tuning, bare-shaft tuning to find nock height, then walk-back tuning to adjust my rest right and left is what worked for me. Both the Solids and the Iron Wills are indistinguishable from my field points out to 50.

 

[williamson88]

I picked up some Solid Legends before they were sold and now have some Iron Will Solid 125s. Both are fantastic and fly true and quiet from a well-tuned bow. They are pricey, but I have a good sharpening system and have no problem sharpening the broadheads when they need it. Buy them once and shoot them for years. As for tuning, bare-shaft tuning to find nock height, then walk-back tuning to adjust my rest right and left is what worked for me. Both the Solids and the Iron Wills are indistinguishable from my field points out to 50.

How far back you going with bare shaft

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[Boreal]

How far back you going with bare shaft

Bare shaft tuning to 20 will give you all the information you really need to adjust your nock point, assuming your arrow is the correct spine and cams, etc. are aligned. If you need more than just the nock point, I'd suggest the pro shop and getting timing, lean, etc. taken care of with their paper tune. Then bare shaft, then the walk-back. Unless you are a glutton for frustration, as I am, and start learning to do the rest of it yourself. It's a deep hole that's easy to fall into and hard to get back out of !

 

[N2TRKYS]

I've used Thunderhead 100s since I started bowhunting in 1992. I've never had to tune my bows for them. I've never worried about sharpening blades. Replacement blades are too cheap for me to waste my time doing that.

 

[5MilesBack]

What everyones stps for tuning I've recently shot the muzzy trocar they fly good and the slick trick inflictor which flew ok but hits 2-3" low

Try twisting your control cable from the top cam. Start with 1/2 twist and work up until the BH's are the same height as your FP's. I'd do this at 40 yards.

I always tune with fixed blades, but I've mostly been using 3-blade 1.5" mechanicals for elk the past several years. But I've got quite a bit more energy than the average setup.

 

[wapitibob]

I used a slick trick standard on Elk this year, going back to spitfire 125 mechs.

 

[IdahoHntr]

I love the slick trick standards. Fly great and have had nothing but great penetration with them.

 

[bowuntr]

I've been shooting Muzzy MX3 100's since they first came out. 1 1/4" cutting diameter. I recently shot 2 Muskox, complete pass thrus and a big mule deer. I hit the deer in the chest and it traveled 40" through his body and 15 yards after the pass thru. No need to go shopping for anything else. Ed F

 

[Gumbo]

Ramcats fly great and penetrate great. Mine hit with my field points out to 70 with no broadhead tuning required.

 

[deerhunt1988]

I have a short draw length and am notorious for finding shoulders. Had some really good experiences with mechanicals, but several bad ones as well. Finally decided I'd sacrifice the cutting diameter of mechanicals and switch to something that may offer more penetration and the potential to bust some bone. I swapped over to Ramcats this year and they fly like my field points out to at least 50 yards (as far as I've shot them) with no extra tuning required. I've taken one white-tailed doe so far this season and got an easy pass through. Plan to arrow several more white-tails before I make a final judgement on the penetration.

 

[RAPTOR]

I have Trypans and Iron Wills in my quiver, just want to shoot a few different heads. I have enough momentum with a high draw weight and heavy arrow that I don't really worry about shooting mechanicals...plus I like big holes and heavy blood trails.

 

[Zac]

If you want a good budget cut on contact the Muzzy Phantom or the Magnus Stinger work well. If you want the Cadillac of cut on contact it has to be the Iron Will. As far as standard heads the Exodus has to be the best normal priced head, with Bishop and Valkyrie being the best higher priced heads.

 

[coyyota]

ViperTrick, Exodus, and Iron Will s125 have all shot well for me and needed no to minimal tuning.