Setting up a bow - from scratch

Joined
Sep 3, 2015
Messages
46
Location
Seattle, WA
Awesome Post - very informative. I am constantly referencing it at the moment because I was a dummy and cut my string last week (few strands not all the way through) and am in the process doing a full setup for the first time. I have the new strings and cables are on, draw weight and cam timing checked and initial nock and rest positions are set. With luck I'll have this baby tuned an broken in before September 1.

Again, thanks for the post!
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2020
Messages
1
I recently got back in to archery and purchased a gently used CD34 2017 model. I can't explain how much this post has helped me in getting it tuned. Thanks!
 

damxam

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 10, 2016
Messages
273
Location
MT
Figured this was a good time to add in my setup notes. If anyone sees anything wrong with these, let me know and I'll edit.

One quick note - there are some people that say the notes on left/right rest movement would be backwards (There's an infamous, old thread on AT that recommends the opposite....) I'm not ruling that out 100%, but I've never once encountered it....

Also - these are mainly centered around Hybrids like Hoyts, but there's also bullets in here about shimming cams or cranking in/out a flex guard like you have on a Prime...

One more - I prefer not to untwist cables / strings where possible because you can get serving separation. I prefer to tighten.

Notes:

Buss cable - Yokes on Top, One Loop On Bottom
- a twist in the buss cable advances the top cam (makes it hit sooner), it lengthens draw length, decreases ATA and increases letoff/valley (assuming timing was even before the twist).

Control cable - One Loop On Bottom and Top - a twist in the control cable slows down the top cam, shortens draw length. It’s effect on ATA, valley and letoff are dependent on the others.

String - a twist in the string shortens draw length, valley and decreases letoff. It plays a role in ATA and draw weight but it is secondary to to the buss.

All - a twist out produces the opposite effect.

Paper, Bare Shaft and Broadhead Tuning

Note - For a right handed shooter! Some may change if you're a southpaw...

Nock Left - Broadhead Misses Right
* Broadhead hitting right is the same as bareshafts hitting right or a tail left tear.
* Tighten Left Yoke
* Loosen Right Yoke
* Rest Right
* Spine too Weak
* Shim Cam(s) to the Left
* Crank flex guard out for less sideways string pressure / less string clearance.

Nock Right - Broadhead misses Left
* Broadhead hitting left is the same as bareshafts hitting left or a tail right tear.
* Tighten Right Yoke
* Loosen Left Yoke
* Rest Left
* Spine too Stiff
* Shim Cam(s) to the Right
* Crank down flex guard for more sideways string pressure / more string clearance.

Nock High - Broadhead Misses Low
* Visualize an arrow pointed down - it will miss low as a bare shaft or broadhead
* Raise the rest up to correct
* Or, lower nocking point & D-loop
* Or, tighten control cable to bring bottom cam ahead
* Or, lengthen buss cable to bring top cam back towards even or hitting behind bottom cam

Nock Low - Broadhead Misses High
* Visualize an arrow pointed up - it will miss high as a bare shaft or broadhead
* Lower the rest down to correct
* Or, raise nocking point & D-loop
* Or, tighten buss cable to bring top cam ahead
* Or, loosen control cable to bring bottom cam behind

Thought I’d bump this post to the top. I reference this every time I’m going through some tuning. So pretty much every spring. Very helpful and informative!
 

87TT

WKR
Joined
Mar 13, 2019
Messages
3,431
Location
Idaho
Dang! Just saw this. Would have saved me a lot of time and headaches. Figured most of it out the hard way and still learning. Thanks for taking the time.
 
Top