Broadhead for elk

[cnelk]

Not a fanboy of any certain broadhead.
I shot Muzzys for a long time, been shooting SlickTricks for 9 years, and now have a couple IronWills to try.

Its important to me to be able to resharpen my BHs with my Gatco sharpener, and SlickTricks are a breeze to do that.

I can say that I have never shot a mechanical BH

 

[2blade]

This may be dumb, but do you guys take a second bow in case something happens to one of them. And if so, do you practice with them equally?

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I would. I had a bow blow up on me last year 10 days before the opener but I always have 2 bows in the stable so it wasn't a big deal. They both shoot the same arrow. But, if I had been out of state with that bow during the hunt, and no back up, it would have been over.

Longest kill shot was 52 yards in Nevada, the overall average is about 35 yds.

 

[jchal3]

You guys are a great help. Thanks for all the input. Ive always had trouble tuning for my broadheads. But there is plenty of time to get it right....I like to tinker anyway.

So I'm assuming you guys get your broadheads to group with your field points correct.

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[2blade]

yes, my broadheads group with my field points to 80 yards. The biggest factor in achieving this is to start with the correct spined arrow for your set up. Its usually pretty simple from there.

 

[YBPS]

What ever you shoot make sure they are sharp, like shave hair on your arm sharp. This may mean you need to sharpen them every few days. I like single blades like Simmons land sharks 125gr. Get up to 500 grains if you can. For your shot set up to get a close shot. 40 yards is about as far as I like to shoot at elk, but I set up so that the are usually closer. If you don't hit them good you are in trouble. A good shot and they are dead in 10 seconds.

 

[jwooley]

Any good solid fixed blade broadhead that shoots well out of your bow will do.. Shot placement is key Lower 1/3 is the money..

 

[nphunter]

I would recommend a good COC head, Solid, Kudu, Magnus or similar heads. In my experience large diameter heads above about 1 1/8” are very finicky to tune. I personally have been shooting Solids since before they cost $125. I can shoot them very accurately out to 85 yards they fly very similar to my field tips. Kudu’s are cheaper and do as well but don’t have bleeders.

Personally I feel center mass is a better shot than hugging the shoulder. I lost the biggest bull I ever put an arrow in hitting a couple inches forward at less than 20 yards. Even super heavy coc arrows have major issues hitting elk bone. Watch this years Born and Raised, Dirk hits a bull in the shoulder and looses it and one of the B&R guys with a 580gr arrow and COC hits one in the shoulder as well at 20, Neither bulls were recovered. I try to avoid questionable shots on elk, I don’t take quartering toward shots or frontals, I’ve seen too many lost elk from those. A good broadside or quartering away will come if your patient. I like to aim about 6-8” behind the shoulder to make sure I don’t hit bone, lungs and liver are deadly.

My last two bulls I killed were at 14 & 25 yards, I lost the big bull with a 20 yard shot and the furthest I killed a bull with a bow was 53 yards. When they decide they’re coming in they normally come all the way if your in the right spot.

 

[TJack303]

Another vote for the QAD exodus. Bombproof broadheads. Tons of other options out there as well that will get the job done. I don't trust mechanicals, archery elk hunting is hard enough without adding one more potential mechanical problem to the equation. Plenty have been killed with mechanicals though so its really just preference.

 

[junior]

ive been bad about getting a perfect tune in the past so opted for mechanical broadheads for the better flight and larger hole. no longer. after having better success calling and getting closer encounters now I can't handle the penetration and energy lost that comes along with mechanicals, I need to be able to get good penetration even on a quartering-to elk. This offseason will be dedicated to getting a true tune with a solid COC fixed blade head.

 

[JJE2MTB]

Definitely go with a fixed blade. They are significantly tougher and elk are pretty tough critters. I run the G5 Montecs currently and have been thoroughly impressed with them.

 

[TimHerald]

only mechanical I would look at is Ulmer head

 

[MAndrews]

Anyone have any experience with the Magnus Black Hornet Serazor? Everything I can find review wise says they're a really nasty head and tough as nails.

 

[sneaky]

If your bow won't shoot a WacEm Triton, then you've got bow issues and not a broadhead issue. We shot just about every fixed blade head out there and they consistently shot the best out to 120. Up to about 60 most any head can work, but at longer distances it really separates the good from the bad. You probably won't shoot that far, but it gives you a good feeling to know that the head is capable. Are you going with an outfitter in Utah? No one on public land would tell you 15yds and under.

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[jchal3]

The trip isn't set in stone yet, but I was told under 15 by a guy who hunted colorado.

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[Beendare]

The trip isn't set in stone yet, but I was told under 15 by a guy who hunted colorado.

The shot is going to depend on how you hunt.....and if its OTC or a limited draw. If you are running/gunning/calling....then watch a bunch of those Born and Raised or Elk 101 vids to give you a good idea of what your shots will be like. I would say that as its not just the distance but also the terrain.

Calling elk creates a particular set of circumstances; the bull is actively looking for you and sometimes they really don't want to expose themselves.Many times you only have a small window to shoot....and other times you only have a split second to get off a good shot. [a lot of the bad shots you will see were because the bowhunter let the bull stare at them too long....and then the bull reacts to the bow going off wrecking shot location.]

If its one thing you can count on....Not everyone agrees on what makes for a good BH. A guy has a couple successes with a brand/design and they become a fan.

My take on BH's after seeing a pile of elk die to an arrow. Think of your arrow and BH as a system. Where just about any arrow system- the combination of arrow weight and BH- works on thin skinned game like deer.....Elk are a whole different situation.This is obvious to most but its worth repeating..... Elk are big heavy thick hided critters. Seems obvious but we see the video guys shooting light setups that cannot punch through an elk.

Elk have a way of exposing the flaws in your setup. A light arrow with a large mech head can work.....but more often than not this system will be exposed as being too puny for elk. A fairly heavy arrow, [450-550gr] with perfect arrow flight [tuned for BH's] and a strong efficient design BH work exceptionally well to get the extra penetration you need on elk. There is a wide range of this type of setup that works.

More specific; I have seen an advantage to a strong Tapered cut on contact BH design. Many good ones in either 2 or 3 blade. If you want inexpensive take a look at the 2 blade Magnus stinger or Buzzcut. If you want solid one piece of good steel take a look at VPA.There are many other good options that are reusable like these which lowers your cost for BH's. Not only are these heads penetrating monsters that will get to something vital when other designs won't.....but they have the added advantage of going through the animal so fast that many times they don't even know they were hit! All bets are off with any setup if the animal spots you and you get in a staring match....then you had better be really close.

Its a big advantage to have an elk standing there unaware bleeding out......vs a bull that was just 'KERPLUNKED" with a mech head spooking them over the continental divide. Even some of the short fixed heads give you that watermelon kerplunk....plus those designs put the thin blades in contact with heavy hair and hide on the way in....not really what you want if you want your BH sharp through the animal. The tapered COC designs slide in with little hide contact.

Now if after all they you still want to shoot a less efficient BH design...fine, just make sure your arrow system maxes out the penetration of those heads [ie- a heavy arrow]....you still have to BH tune....AND adjust your shot selection. You pretty much want to follow this advice anyway with elk /grin...but the point is; an arrow with very high penetration potential gives you a little more leeway on shot selection.

 

[PaLongshank]

I have had zero issues with 100grain slick trick mags....fly great, good blood, and great penetration.....

 

[PTArcher1]

Thought my new go to blade may be the Sevr (newest version of the Ulmer). Carried these elk hunting in CO this fall. Unfortunately, had no opportunities. Returned home to PA and shot a whitetail buck. Great blood trail with the animal piling up in about 60 yds. Not real impressed with the penetration though. Changed my mind regarding mechanicals on bigger animals like elk. Back to my G5 Strikers I believe.

 

[1shotgear]

I would always pick fixed over mechanical when elk hunting. The problem you will run into with mechanical heads is that they are not made to hold up to the punishment that the mountains are going to throw at you while elk hunting. Fixed heads may not fly the same as field points but they will group better and stay more consistent after weeks of sliding down hills looking for elk. I personally have seen two peoples mechanical heads fail by deploying on the draw or not deploying even after passing throw the elk.

 

[buck_shot11]

rage in the cage

 

[Backpack Hunter]

I have used 100gr Grim Reaper Razortips for years with great success, and most recently 125gr Grim Reaper Fatal Steel. I don't believe I have ever shot an arrow less than 400 grains or more than 450 grains. I have never had a draw weight over 60lbs.

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