New Barrett Fieldcraft

[Bobbyboe]

Just last week I received my new Barrett Fieldcraft, which is chambered in .308 win. Last year I fell in love with the specs of the rifle, but wanted to wait for some reviews until I purchased one myself. Well, throughout this year there have been tons of great reviews. I figured it was time to purchase.

Fast forward. My overall impressions are that this is a very well made rifle. It is incredibly light, but feels comfortable in your hands. The stock felt amazing and had a beautiful, slightly textured finish. The receiver and bolt appear to be very streamlined. I thought that the bolt movement was very smooth. The action and barrel were perfectly bedded into the stock. I like how Barrett made the bolt handle with a pin connecting the handle to the bolt body. In addition, I like how simple the bolt release design is.

I got my rifle set up with a Talley pic rail, Warne rings and a 6x swfa scope. Today was range day. I purchased Hornady 168 a-max, 178eld-x, federal 165 accurip, and 185 juggernaut ammo. I got the rifle close and began shooting three shot groups. The first thing I noticed was that the first two shots with every type of ammo were touching, or nearly touching. The third shot always strayed from the group. I mean always. After a few shots the barrel got hot and didn’t ever cool all the way down.

Attached are photos of the groups.

Overall I am happy with the rifle. I think that this gun is very capable of tight groups, espically with a cold barrel. One issue I had was the spent brass hitting my scope upon exiting the chamber. I need to figure that one out! Any ideas from you SWFA or Nightforce owners?

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[Stid2677]

I had the same issue with the Remington TI in 270WSM, took me a while to realize it was hitting the scope and bouncing back into the action. I even had a sako/m16 style extractor installed and this made it worse since that style tends to eject higher still. I ended up rotating the scope 90 degrees and this made the elevation turret the windage and the winage the elevation. This would not work in your case, I shoot long range too, but never dial wind, so I would consider trying to do something with the windage knob. I believe the brass is catching on that raised ring the turret has, I would remove the knob and try to cycle, then I might consider sanding that raised area even with the rest of the turret cap and see if it would cycle.

 

[TwoTikkas]

Don't know what to tell you. The scope is already too high in my mind for a good cheek weld. Looks like it to could come down 3/16" anyhow. Only compounding your ejection problem. Mount a 6X Leupold on this rifle and save the S.S. for something more fitting. Not trying to be rude,but that looks like a conflict of interest. Why load down a mountain rifle with that much glass. At least from a physical size perspective.

The 2 + 1 groups are likely a product of heat. That was a bunch of different ammo to bite off in one sitting. Clean her good. Good being the operative word. Then pick one box of ammo and go test it. Another the next trip. I've seen mixed reports with regard to accuracy and the Fieldcraft. You aren't doing too bad. Especially with factory fodder.

 

[Bobbyboe]

I didn’t have a lot of time for the range session. I’m pretty happy with the results considering the conditions and the fact I was unable to cool the barrel between groups. It looks like the Federal 165accubond and Hornady Black 168amax were the two most consistent, with the extremely small sample size. Both should be suitable for what I’m trying to accomplish, 0-500 gun. The barrel will be thouroughly cleaned and more experimenting will be done.

As for the scope, the goal was to have a scope that would reliably dial. I don’t want to use a bdc style scope and fixed 6 leupold is not meant for dialing. A 9oz scope would have been awesome, but not useful for my needs. Just need to figure out that brass issue! Barrett may be getting a call today.

 

[pchrisla]

I believe AG Composites makes the stocks for this rifle. No surprise on the feel, weight, and inletting being perfect as they are on top of their game.

As far as the brass hitting, do you need a turrent on the windage? I see the need to dial for elevation but should be able to hold over for windage.

 

[VernAK]

Don't know what to tell you. The scope is already too high in my mind for a good cheek weld. Looks like it to could come down 3/16" anyhow. Only compounding your ejection problem. Mount a 6X Leupold on this rifle and save the S.S. for something more fitting. Not trying to be rude,but that looks like a conflict of interest. Why load down a mountain rifle with that much glass. At least from a physical size perspective.

The 2 + 1 groups are likely a product of heat. That was a bunch of different ammo to bite off in one sitting. Clean her good. Good being the operative word. Then pick one box of ammo and go test it. Another the next trip. I've seen mixed reports with regard to accuracy and the Fieldcraft. You aren't doing too bad. Especially with factory fodder.

Agree......for my taste, the scope is too heavy and too high on heavy mounts.....

 

[Formidilosus]

The 2 + 1 groups are likely a product of heat. That was a bunch of different ammo to bite off in one sitting. Clean her good. Good being the operative word. Then pick one box of ammo and go test it. Another the next trip. I've seen mixed reports with regard to accuracy and the Fieldcraft. You aren't doing too bad. Especially with factory fodder.

Heat has had nothing to do with it- that barrel will keep putting rounds inside it’s true grouping capability until it melts. The issues are that 3 shots are not a group and recoil is a thing.

As for the scope, the goal was to have a scope that would reliably dial. I don’t want to use a bdc style scope and fixed 6 leupold is not meant for dialing. A 9oz scope would have been awesome, but not useful for my needs. Just need to figure out that brass issue! Barrett may be getting a call today.

Does the brass fall back in the action and cause a malfunction? Are you slowly pulling the bolt back? Does it happen when you rack the bolt quickly?

 

[Formidilosus]

Mount a 6X Leupold on this rifle and save the S.S. for something more fitting. Not trying to be rude,but that looks like a conflict of interest. Why load down a mountain rifle with that much glass. At least from a physical size perspective.

Agree......for my taste, the scope is too heavy and too high on heavy mounts.....

If a person wants to be/needs to be able to reliably and consistently shoot past MPBR, it takes a scope that can reliabley and consistently dial, return to zero, and one that maintain zero. There is no scope that is less than 18oz that will do it.

 

[Bobbyboe]

Heat has had nothing to do with it- that barrel will keep putting rounds inside it’s true grouping capability until it melts. The issues are that 3 shots are not a group and recoil is a thing.









Does the brass fall back in the action and cause a malfunction? Are you slowly pulling the bolt back? Does it happen when you rack the bolt quickly?

Form,

I was able to fix the brass problem, but yes, the brass was re entering the chamber. I re checked my scope/eye alignment and realized I needed the scope mounted further forward for proper scope alignment. By moving the scope forward the brass now clears without issue.

I have an additional question for you regarding groups. This is a serious question and not meant to be condescending. If the third round always being away from the first two has nothing to do with heat, then why is it always the third round the drifts out? I’ve read your posts in the past talking about 10 shot groups and true grouping, so I do understand your stance. If you look at the 2, three shot groups with the 168 Amax, the first two shots out of both groups (so, 4 total shots) are on top of each other. Both instances the third shot drifted from the group.

I may experiment with letting the gun sit a little between shots to see if that third shot will stay closer.

Overall, I’m pretty happy with the Amax groups with a 6x scope. It’s the lowest power I’ve ever shot for groups at 100. I’ll be doing more experimenting with the 165 accubonds, as those shot good also.

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[Formidilosus]

Form,
I have an additional question for you regarding groups. This is a serious question and not meant to be condescending. If the third round always being away from the first two has nothing to do with heat, then why is it always the third round the drifts out? I’ve read your posts in the past talking about 10 shot groups and true grouping, so I do understand your stance. If you look at the 2, three shot groups with the 168 Amax, the first two shots out of both groups (so, 4 total shots) are on top of each other. Both instances the third shot drifted from the group.

I may experiment with letting the gun sit a little between shots to see if that third shot will stay closer.
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Statistical variation and/or shooter induced error. Statiscal variation is that more shots will land closer to center than will land at the edge. Also, it’s just a fact that 3 shot “groups” are in no way statistically relevant. You would have to shoot a dozen or more 3 shot groups all on the same target to actually see anything consistent.

I would ask a serious question as here- how does the gun know it’s the third shot? In some of your groups the third shot is low left, some low right, some barely out. If it’s walking due to heat, then the third shot will be in the same direction and shots 4, 5, 6, 7, etc. will continue walking away in that direction. If it does walk at all, then the barrel hasn’t been properly stress relieved and needs to be replaced.

But it I would bet money that with a shooter neutrally behind the rifle, and with that shooter not knowing whether the gun is loaded or not for each shot (i.e.- ball and dummy) that the third shot, as well as the fourth, fifth, on and on, fall within the actual group size. Check this first. If the shots continue “walking” in the same direction as the gun heats up, the barrel is bad. If it groups horribly, then something is loose, the barrel is bad, or the bedding is bad. If you shoot a couple of shots and then point of impact shifts noticeably, then shifts after a couple more shots, etc. then something is loose or bedding is bad.


Here’s what will most likely happen if you zero POA/POI correctly and shoot ten shots one at a time letting it cool between each shot, and then ten shots all at once and compare targets and note where each shot placed at on each target-

1) The overall group size will be between 1.5 and 2 inches at 100 yards for both groups.

2) There will be no ryme or reason for where the first shot lands within that group for either, I.e.- First shots will NOT land in the same place consistently

3) There will be no “walking” as the rifle heats up during the 10 round group fired at once.

4) Both groups will look very similar.





The vast majority of “problems” are because how we “test” rifles and ammo is fundamentally flawed, or outright wrong. Three shots is not a group, has no bearing whatsoever ever on where any one round will land, tells us nothing about point of impact and point of aim variance, nor can it show us anything but the absolute most egregious issues. The only reason whatsoever that we use “3 shot groups” is because individuals, writers, and gun companies want to be able to say their rifle groups “sub MOA”. It has no bearing on what the rifle is actually consistently capable of.

 

[rblosser]

This isn't directly related to your problem, but I have seen a few fieldcrafts including mine, produce vertical strings due to the action screws not being torqued properly.

 

[Whisky]

The vast majority of “problems” are because how we “test” rifles and ammo is fundamentally flawed, or outright wrong. Three shots is not a group, has no bearing whatsoever ever on where any one round will land, tells us nothing about point of impact and point of aim variance, nor can it show us anything but the absolute most egregious issues. The only reason whatsoever that we use “3 shot groups” is because individuals, writers, and gun companies want to be able to say their rifle groups “sub MOA”. It has no bearing on what the rifle is actually consistently capable of.

Curious to hear your process for working up a load. Thanks

 

[carter33]

I have a Fieldcraft in 6.5 Creedmoor on order, should be here soon but first thing I’m going to do is have it cerakoted, interested to see if I have an similar difficulties. Putting a Leupold vx5ihd 2.5-10 on it with the tally one price rings.

 

[Formidilosus]

Curious to hear your process for working up a load. Thanks

Normally my load workup consists of opening a wooden case, pulling two cans out, and loading mags out of 20 round boxes. I dislike reloading, fiddling, obsessing about trivial details. I like shooting, and if I had my way all my mags would come preloaded. These days I almost never choose anything that doesn’t have good factory ammo readily available. 223/5.56, .224 Valkyrie, 6mm Creed, 6.5 Creedmoor, 308/7.62, 300WM, 300NM, 338NM and Lapua, 50bmg, etc., all I’ve factory ammo that works well to the limit of the cartridges.

When I do have to reload, I’m usually after a certain level and precision- i.e., I do not chase endless
minuscule improvements to group size. Dedicated long range rifle I want consistent 10 round groups of 1moa at 300 yards, and good ES/SD in velocity. Normal hunting rifle for use from muzzle to 600+/- yards= 1.5’ish MOA 10 round groups at 100 yards. Normally that can be achieved with known and common loads. When it can’t if it’s for a LR rifle I generally use a modified ladder. Seat the bullet just kissing the lands or to mag length, load 10’ish rounds in .2 grain increments up to max with a temp stable powder, shoot at 400-500 yards on a shoot-n-see target on a windless day noting where each hits. Find a “group” that shows little vertical, load 10 rounds right in the middle of the charge range, and if it groups I’m done. If not, play with seating depth.

Don’t think ive ever had to play with seating depth using the above method.

 

[gbflyer]

Dang, that’s good shooting Form. If a lightweight Fieldcraft will put 10 in 1.5 MOA at 300 with factory ammo I’m ordering the first lefty they make.

 

[Formidilosus]

Dang, that’s good shooting Form. If a lightweight Fieldcraft will put 10 in 1.5 MOA at 300 with factory ammo I’m ordering the first lefty they make.

1.5 MOA at 100 yards. Most Fieldcrafts have been between 1.3-1.7 for ten rounds.

 

[Bobbyboe]

I was able to get to the range a few more times. The Fieldcraft seems to be shooting good. It really likes Federal 165 accubonds. 3 shot groups always under 1”. 3 shot groups range from 9/16” to 7/8”. I did shoot 1, 8 shot group that measured 1 3/8”. I also noticed that the gun shot best when it is slightly dirty (6-15 shots) and has a cold barrel.

Here are a couple photos.

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[bradmacmt]

The Barrett is an M700 clone, complete with the Sako-type extractor bolt modification often done to M700's to replace the "toenail" extractor found on the standard M700 bolt face.

The thing about the Sako extractor mod is that it has to be machined on TOP of the right-hand bolt lug in order to not weaken the lug through undercutting. As a result, brass is thrown at a more upward angle than with the standard M700 extractor. By contrast, the old Model 70 "pushfeed" version avoids this problem by machining the extractor squarely (and integrally) into the right hand bolt lug.

With a big, protruding windage knob like that on your rifle, you're going to have brass hit it. A piece of bicycle innertube wrapped on the outside of the knob is one fix. Or just get a scope with a more flush windage knob.

 

[myalias789]

How stiff is the safety on the Barrett rifle? Do you feel comfortable slinging the gun on your shoulder and pushing through brush?

I keep thinking the m70 action safety is better in that regards and that’s my only complaint looking at the Barrett specs.

 

[Bobbyboe]

How stiff is the safety on the Barrett rifle? Do you feel comfortable slinging the gun on your shoulder and pushing through brush?

I keep thinking the m70 action safety is better in that regards and that’s my only complaint looking at the Barrett specs.

The safety is similar to any other model 700. I personally don’t have a problem with this style safety and I spend a lot of time in swamps of northern Wisconsin. It’s all about comfort. If you love/need a 3 position safety, then don’t compromise.