Chasing scope issues?

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Last couple range sessions as I’ve honed in on some loads and collected dope has left me scratching my head upon review. I’m trying to make sense if I have a scope issue going on or missing something in the data or what. I don’t have the best chrono so even leaving some margin of error there the inconsistencies seem far too great to tune velocity and/or BC from published data.
Range conditions depending on the day: ~24.5-25 inHg, 60-90F, low humidity.
208ELDM: published G7 0.337, velocity ~2750fps
181hammer: published G7 0.272, velocity 1: ~2900fps & velocity 2: ~2950fps (two different loads I was checking)

Last week I zero’d the 181hammer at 200 within an inch (so factor in that slight potential for error), the 208eldm was an inch or so lower but close enough of a zero I’d land on paper while checking drops. I put a target out at 1043yd for the eldm and dialed in 26MOA, landed them basically right on in terms of elevation. Brought the target in closer to catch a small charge ladder of the 181hammers (in the 2900-2950fps range) at 550yd and with 8MOA left impacts ~9” low, this seemed odd indicating a large velocity or BC variation, IF the rifle was still zero’d but I was out of test rounds.

Yesterday I start at 200 and shoot a round of the 181hammer and 208eld, they’re all low needed to come up 2MOA to zero the hammer and slightly low 208eldm. Then moved the target out to 426yd: 208eldm 11” low with 5.5MOA dialed, the 181 hammer groups were 6-7” low with 5MOA. This seems odd after just zeroing at 200yd to be that low with the given dial ups. Moved the target back to 666yd, first hammer rounds were in the dirt in front, I added 3 more MOA on the dial and caught the last 2 of each: ~2900fps group was 12.5” low with 15MOA, ~2950fps group was 9” low with 15MOA. The 208eldm was 15” low with 15MOA. None of this was looking right, I was out of hammers but had some eldm left, I moved the target back in to 200 (actually ended up at 190yd), return to zero had the elm 1.5-2” low (IE basically returned to its zero from the morning). I put a couple rounds on paper with 3MOA wondering if the clicks were notably off (should have flipped the target and did a greater dial up amount for the test) and things moved ~6”.

Generally I’m baffled. The data yesterday suggested its tracking at .79MOA/100yd BUT if that was the case there is no way I’d have landed those shots at 1043 on paper with 26MOA dialed (similarly this indicates my chrono isn’t massively out of calibration). Yesterday the scope seemed to return to zero fine but the previous session it appears to have returned low unless I goofed up something when resetting the zero (it was hot/sunny/I was tired). Nothing seems loose on the mount and the group sizes don't indicate the scope is moving around on shots. I am strongly wondering about a scope issue but don’t know if I’m missing the forest through the trees with my results.

The only thing I can think to do is load up some rounds and get a tall paper at 100, shoot a group and then dial up near the maximum I can, shoot a group, return to zero shoot a group. Figure that would check return to zero and also a better indicator of how accurate the MOA dialing is. If this is screwy then I have a scope issue.

Bit frazzled with everything going on this time of year already. You're not going to hurt my feelings pointing out an obvious issue, I just want to get shit working as expected, haha.
 
Last edited:

Bobbyboe

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I am no expert, but it seems like you have a solid plan. Testing your tracking at 100 should reduce the chance of user error compared to shooting long range.

What scope and mounts are you running?
 

ramont

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Check the mechanical connections - scope mount/rings for loosened screws. I know you said that it seemed like they were tight but I'd take the scope off and use a torque wrench on the mount screws and then torque the rings. Make sure that the screw holes and chamfers do not have any burrs on them. A friend had a one piece aluminum mount on his .300 win mag and we found that the recoil had opened the screw hole chamfers a bit and that allowed the mount to shift under recoil. I had a similar recently with my rifle, I found that the mount screws were loose, not enough that I noticed easily but when I carefully pushed and pulled sideways on the mount I could detect a slight pop or tick. I went from 1.25" groups down to .4" groups after I re-torqued everything.

I know those BC values are the advertised numbers but I wonder if your muzzle velocities and weather conditions are creating enough variation in true BC values that you're seeing big drop errors at long range. Also, are you using a ballistics calculator that uses the average BC value or can you input several BC values over the velocity range, that can help your long range trajectory estimates quite a bit. I get my multiple BC values from the Bryan Litz book "Ballistic Performance of Rifle Bullets" (the current book is the 3rd edition, it has the ELD bullets in it).
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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I originally installed with a torque screw driver but can recheck. Part of the reason I don't tend to associate loose scope with these low hits is the group sizes are fine, its just all hitting lower that it should. Even using lower BC and velocity values I can't readily work out a curve that matches. Online I'm using Litz's 208amax selection on his online calculator both with the slightly lower BC value for that bullet than the eldm and the lowest hornday value (for when the bullet is slowest). I'd need to knock off a good 150fps before the 400-600yd type numbers start to get close but then the 1000yd is no where near close.

As noted I'm using Litz's online calculator and also strelok pro.
 
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I read on applied ballistics site that they feel the actual movement per click is the biggest error they see when using their app. Look at doing a tall target test to get your soiid value per click. Not sure about all apps but applied ballistics allows you to enter your click value.
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Strelok does as well. I fully understand somewhat of a click error. Yesterdays values seemed to indicate .79MOA/100yd though so that's a BIG error and that didn't show up just going from 0 to 3MOA nor did it show when I shot at 1043yd the other weekend. Overall I'm really just having a tough time making sense of it all. Some time on the range is the obvious solution but I can't help but dwell on it all at the moment...
 

Formidilosus

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Strelok does as well. I fully understand somewhat of a click error. Yesterdays values seemed to indicate .79MOA/100yd though so that's a BIG error and that didn't show up just going from 0 to 3MOA nor did it show when I shot at 1043yd the other weekend. Overall I'm really just having a tough time making sense of it all. Some time on the range is the obvious solution but I can't help but dwell on it all at the moment...



More ore than likely a scope issue. However, you need to load 25’ish rounds of a known load, zero, and fire a 10 round group at 100. Then next trip, without changing anything, fire a second 10 round group at the same exact target. That’ll show you if you have a zero shift. If you have a zero shift but good groups, replace the scope with one that actually works.
 

JP100

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Scope is a zeiss HD5 target turret 3-15x42 in talley rings.

Ditch the scope!

I have just got rid of my HD5, same scope, same issues.
Know of another guy with the same issue, his ending up breaking completely.

My Zeiss seemed to do similar stuff, just more or less random wandering. Mainly just left and right.
I did not dial much, but it was still an issue, cost me some animals this season.

Have rifle zeroed, dial in a shot, dial back to zero and its 5 inches to the left.

Put a new scope on my gun and shes a different story!
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Ditch the scope!

I have just got rid of my HD5, same scope, same issues.
Know of another guy with the same issue, his ending up breaking completely.

My Zeiss seemed to do similar stuff, just more or less random wandering. Mainly just left and right.
I did not dial much, but it was still an issue, cost me some animals this season.

Have rifle zeroed, dial in a shot, dial back to zero and its 5 inches to the left.

Put a new scope on my gun and shes a different story!

Couldn't find much info either way on the scope, bummer if so since the glass is nice in it. It might not like being on a braked 300wsm...

OR the issue could be something on my system end too, not blaming the scope yet till I know.
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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Okay yeah firm base mount and check the tracking.

As I dwell on things I'm thinking at this point I'll pull this scope off, I have an older sightron bigsky in the same tube diameter I can toss on the gun to try out quickly, when I get time I'll circle around and check the tracking on the hd5.
 

aron

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I would perform a box test at 100 yards. Start off by shooting a group (minimum of 5 shots) to get a good idea of how the load is performing and then stress the elevation and windage in all directions. Repeat the test to get multiple shots at the same location. I also like the idea of shooting a group on the same target at multiple days.
 
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pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

pods8 (Rugged Stitching)

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That'll all need to wait, confidence is shaken on this scope and I'd like to run this gun hunting is feasible. I want to take this scope out of the equation for now I think, if my loads are still hitting way low with a new scope then I have chrono issue.
 

Sniper1*

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I am a professional (Seriously, it’s one of the things I do for a living) and if you have another scope that you trust then don’t mess around with the one you have lost confidence in... especially you want to get the system up and running quick... You already have a firm grasp on what needs to be done and how to do it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Switching scopes is a great idea. Many scopes even expensive ones have great glass but tracking errors. If you’re gonna be dialing a lot at least run some tracking tests or just go with a NF, bushnell LRHS, S&B or even SWFA.
Be sure to report back your results.
 

JP100

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Couldn't find much info either way on the scope, bummer if so since the glass is nice in it. It might not like being on a braked 300wsm...

OR the issue could be something on my system end too, not blaming the scope yet till I know.

My rifle is a 300wsm aswell(breaked or suppressor) and my new Z5 has none of the issues the Zeiss did.

easiest thing to do is borrow or swap out a scope and test it
 
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