Reloading for long range?

[smokinbobf4]

This may have been discussed before, but I was just wondering if someone could tell me all of the different tools that a person would need to reload for long range shooting, starting out? I want to start reloading but am not sure of everything that I need, especially for extreme accuracy. I know it’s a lot to ask but I just can’t seem to find a full list of parts. I know I can, and still might get the basics and then add things as needed, but I am one to go all out and do it the best possible from the beginning.


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[Stid2677]

Not sure where you live, but when I got started I was helped by a very knowledgeable reloader that mentored me and showed me start to finish and what he used. That really helped me with the learning curve and saved money too by not needing to rebuy things that may not work well together. The pieces that were most worth the money for me was, a solid press, automatic powder scale/dispenser and case trimmer. Measuring tools are the other, needed items. Long range requires repeatability and that requires tools to measure everything.

 

[smokinbobf4]

I live in Nd, I wish there was someone around me that could show me the ropes of all of it. I have been reading and watching videos like crazy, but I am a do and learn person. It seems everyone around me just sticks to their factory ammo or the few people I do know don’t do it for real accuracy. I think they do it just to say they reload.


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[Stid2677]

I will warn you now,, step away from the Black Hole.... I have watched close to 15K swirl down into the void, chasing steel plates. Lots of fun though.....

 

[smokinbobf4]

That’s what I’m afraid of and the reason I have put it off so long already!


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[Pro953]

I started reloading last year. Go for it. If you like tinkering and working on projects it can be great fun.

That said it really depends on what you mean by long range shooting. It may not make that much of a difference compared to high quality ammo.

The real fun is the tinkering and shooting more.

Much better reloaders here but I will give it a shot.

Press
Beam scale for powder.
Digital scale to weight sort brass & projectiles.
Hi quality calipers.
Case trimmer
Some sort of OAL gauge for chamber length.
Comparator gauge.
Primer pocket uniform Tool.
Flash hole deburring tool
Tumbler and media
Deburring/chamfer tool.

I have not gone down the road of neck turning yet. Some folks love it some don’t.

I still full length size all my brass and anneal every third load. Lots of options with body dies, neck dies etc... you will have to form your own opinion on that. Just buy some quality dies.

Start with good brass and sort and prep from the beginning and it will save you a lot of grief and money in the long term.

With the exception of safety related processes I am starting to be of the opinion that it’s not a matter of the right or wrong way to do things. It’s more about finding the process that works for you and your rifle then working on ways to be as consistent as possible.

While the proof is in the pudding with ladder tests and groups you will likely want some sort of chronograph. Not required but at some point you will end up wanting one. I run a magnetospeed. Some guys like lab radar but lots of other options as well.

Best improvements I found were from annealing, Improving seating depth and sorting projectiles be weight and length.

Still a novice but feel free to PM me
If you have questions and I will try and help.




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[smokinbobf4]

Thanks for the replies. They are both helpful. Like was said I don’t want to get things that are not a necessity right away, but get all the right necessary tools right away and then add on down the road. I am just trying to put some numbers together to see if it is in the budget now. I know there are quit a few things needed besides what is in a starter kit so I am trying to see if I should get a kit or skip it and buy all the prices separate. It is alittle intimidating, but the more things I watch and read seems to tame that a bit.


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[Apollo117]

You mentioned purchasing a kit vs buying the parts separate. I'll chip in and say there are pros and cons with either option. The kit is likely more expensive, but it's guaranteed to have compatible parts and you'll probably be able to start reloading more quickly than purchasing parts separately. Now, buying parts separately will likely save money, especially if purchased used. However, it may take a little research to verify if all your parts will work together. It'll definitely take longer to purchase the parts separately.

BTW, when I mention making sure the parts work together, what I mean is some parts are manufacturer agnostic. They'll work with an RCBS, Lee, or Dillon press. Some parts will only work with one brand of press.

Hope this helps.

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[smokinbobf4]

Thank you. I am aware of that, maybe not to the extent it actually is. I was thinking going with rcbs or hornady. I think I am leaning toward the rcbs. What is the experience with either or does it not really matter. If I decide to make the plunge I would like to get quality products that will last a lifetime.


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[Pro953]

Look at e-bay and the classifieds on accurate shooter as well. Lots of good dies and other items can be found as shooters sell rifles or go different directions.




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[Apollo117]

Thank you. I am aware of that, maybe not to the extent it actually is. I was thinking going with rcbs or hornady. I think I am leaning toward the rcbs. What is the experience with either or does it not really matter. If I decide to make the plunge I would like to get quality products that will last a lifetime.


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Between my Dad and I, we've got two Dillon 4-stages presses and 1 single stage RCBS. We leave one Dillon setup for 556 NATO only. The other handles everything from 9mm Luger to 7mm STW.

The 4-stage presses make reloading much easier and faster. I've heard people say the 4 stage presses are less consistent and repeatable than the single stage presses. I haven't seen that in my experience.

I like the Dillon's a lot. I have much less experience with the RCBS. All of ours are very well built and we haven't had anything break on them. Only had to replace parts due to normal wear and tear. Example is the spring on the primer loader and a powder funnel.

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[HonkeyMcGee88]

Some good info here and some not as good.

Not trying to start a shit show but in regards to weight sorting, deburring primer holes, uniforming primer pockets, case trimming brand new cases..., etc...
1. I have done it before and I can't say I have seen enough difference to make it worth it.
2. That's a lot of extra unnecessary crap for a new reloader to deal with.


Keep it simple.
A good press
Set of dies
Hand primer or primer system in the press
Brass, bullets, powder, primers
A scale and powder drop/trickler or my preferred method, a chargemaster.

Keep it simple starting out. Work up a load that shoots well. Then if you wanna try out doing a buncha extra crap and see if it helps, go for it.

 

[smokinbobf4]

Might be a dumb question as I “think” I know the answer, but does loading a specific load without doing those extra small things, and simply doing the basics, make it that much better than buying factory ammo. I would think those are little things once you get going that you could try and see if there is much of a difference?


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[HuntInWild88]

Im going to throw in my two cents. Everyone on here as givin fantastic advice. But you said extream accuracy. You really have to ask yourself what does that mean to you. I know alot of guys who say their rifle is extremely accurate because they can shoot a 1" three shot group at 100 yards. I know some guys who will only say a rifle is extremely accurate if it can shoot 1/4 moa at any distance. You also have to look at what is practical to you rifle. It doesnt matter if you tske those extra steps to reload the most accurate round possible if your rifle just isnt capable of shooting. In other words dont expect a mossberg chambered in 6.5 creedmoor to shoot 1/4 moa.
Reloading can be alot of fun and rewarding, or it can be frustrating. Have fun and shoot strait!

 

[smokinbobf4]

Huntinwild88 you are 100% correct. That is what I said and meant, however I think I might have come to the conclusion that I need to start alittle slower after a few of the posts on here. What I am looking for is to try to be consistent 1/2 or less moa up to close to a thousand yards. I see on here and forget that there is “terms” that mean different things to a lot of people. I had mike at hells canyon armory build me an amazing 6.5 creedmoor that with factory eldm 147 will shoot typically 1/2-moa out to 400, which is as far as I have shot it yet. I feel like that is almost good enough but I feel the factory ammo is just inconsistent. More so in my other guns than that one. I also have a Christensen Mesa in 300 win and a tikka t3 in 270wsm and I feel all of those guns are decent shooters. Maybe that helps explain things alittle more. And thank you for all of the comments, even though I maybe shouldn’t start out doing all of those things now, it is my personality that will push me that direction later for sure, so it is very helpful. I have been shooting the Mesa a lot getting ready for a hunt and it would be nice not to pay over $2 per shell, it’s getting expensive. But I don’t know if this will actually save me much money.


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[Stid2677]

Factory ammo is made to fire in ALL guns of the same caliber,, what this means is cases that have the shoulder shoved back to fit into any SAMMI spec chamber, same with seating, all factory ammo is seated deep enough to fit magazines and not hit the lands. IMHO and experience, the high BC bullets shoot best when very close to the lands, this means loooong cartridges that can be too long for some rifles and mags. When I handload for my long range rig, my ammo is made to fit my rifle and chamber.

 

[kupper]

smokin where are you at in ND? I both shoot and reload long range and am also in ND. If I get an extra day and youre in the same area I can help you piece together what you need. I have a spare press and digital powder dispenser and a couple other odds and ends that ive upgraded over time.

 

[Apollo117]

Factory ammo is made to fire in ALL guns of the same caliber,, what this means is cases that have the shoulder shoved back to fit into any SAMMI spec chamber, same with seating, all factory ammo is seated deep enough to fit magazines and not hit the lands. IMHO and experience, the high BC bullets shoot best when very close to the lands, this means loooong cartridges that can be too long for some rifles and mags. When I handload for my long range rig, my ammo is made to fit my rifle and chamber.

+1

This is a great explanation of how reloads are better than normal factory rounds.

This especially comes into play with fire formed brass. The shoulder of a fire formed and reloaded cartridge will always fit the chamber better than a factory round. You can calibrate your dies to just barely bump your fire formed shoulder.

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[smokinbobf4]

I am in devils lake


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[smokinbobf4]

What is the preferred method on cleaning brass?


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