I consider my G19 about ideal as a woods and general purpose defensive pistol. I have a TLR-7 that I sometimes carry on it. And of course several holsters to carry it in various ways. On a bow hunt, I’ll carry it in a holster that I use some 550 cord to attach right below my bino harness...
Definitely don’t regret it. For a compound it was super easy for me. I was only doing one configuration, 3 fletch blazer vanes with lots of helical. So, I got a AZ EZ Fletch that works great. At the time I got it, I think it was only $40. Seems like they retail for $65 now.
At that price...
It’s been rainy here, so haven’t been able to get outside and experiment much.
This will definitely be a process and not just a simple change one thing and call it good kind of deal.
Based on responses here and some thoughts of my own, here is the next couple steps I’ll take. I figure...
Haven’t got a video at the moment, and got rain coming in so it may be a couple days before I can.
I really think my form can’t be too bad though. I am always concerned about my release, I feel like that is the biggest different thing to learn coming from actively pulling a trigger on a gun...
The shelf attachment it comes with claims to put the shelf at exact center shot. When I got weak readings I put on a felt furniture pad piece that’s about 1/8 inch thick, maybe a little more. Bare shaft still flying weak. A second pad layered on that one still showed a weak shaft flight...
A little intro info:
My traditional bow experience is fairly limited, got a Galaxy Scorch about a year ago which is a 54 inch recurve, and about 30 pounds at my 26.5 draw length. My shooting education is largely from The Push podcast and Jake Kaminski’s YouTube videos. This has got me shooting...
Probably a good separate topic if you want more detail, but anytime I have achieved a good tune with a bare shaft, my broadheads shoot right with my field points. With a compound, I’ll shoot bare shafts out to about 40 yards.
I’d say that would be especially true of anything made by these...
I agree with ckleeves. All or nothing would be best. Making everything draw only would pretty much eliminate point creep, allow max control over herd health and overcrowding, and quite possibly result in better hunting on average for all of us. Even if it means hunting CO every other year.
I’m curious what arrow rest you are using? And also, great shooting. Aside from shooter skill, what components of that system would you say contributed most to your accuracy? Consistency of arrows, the sight, stability of the bow itself?
I know this thread is a few months old now, but can you vouch for this head being pretty capable out of a low poundage setup? I know the tip is “almost” a cut on contact, pointier than the original slick truck and other chisel type heads, but not as sharp as something like the tip of a Magnus...
The ElkNut app was great for me to learn off of.
I think it has changed a little since I used it. But I would bet it’s about the best of that kind of thing and it was very helpful to me.
I hate to say it, but I really think anything synthetic in that price range will likely be pretty bulky. Like someone mentioned the Kifaru Slick bag is a good option that uses quality synthetic insulation, but it is not in that price range, and it is likely still bulkier than down even if the...
What do you consider affordable? I’d probably err on going with down even if it is one of the cheaper down bags. Can’t beat the weight and packability of it.
If you truly need something cheap, it will cost you. In weight and bulk. I started hiking/camping with a military sleep system which...
Have you seen Disc-o-beds?
I’ve been thinking of getting their bunk bed when my sons are old enough to camp/elk hunt. Would save some space in a wall tent.