Like most have stated I’d keep it the same especially if you’re shooting well with your current 480gr arrow. Myself personally, I like a little heavier arrow for elk so I’d leave it at 480gr @ 290.
I did this same exact process. Adding and subtracting nock sets. I still have the chrono records on my Caldwell app. I just looked it over and I only gained 2 fps from the baseline bare string shots. I’m shooting a 730gr arrow and I switched my z7 70lb limbs for a set of 75lb z7 limbs that...
I think we are from the same origin haha
all are valid points and exactly why I use my portable press! Space is the biggest thing for me. I currently live in a apartment so I decided to get the big Weston arrow saw, a full size draw board with the stand, a g2 chronograph on a tripod just to...
depends on the bow. I changed out the limbs on my triax but had to zip tie the limbs to the bow master limb attachments to get the hooks to stay at a certain angle until the limbs started to compress
The answer is yes…
I recently built a Frankenstein bow with a triax riser and 80lb monster wake limbs. I used my bow master, gloves, safety glasses, and a heavy ass jacket just incase. :oops:
In situations like this you should invest in a bow master (portable press). Idk if you do any back country hunts but it’s nice to at least leave it in the truck for emergency's! Better than hiking 8 miles back to the truck than calling it a trip 👍🏻
If you’ve never tied a d loop id recommend using BCY 24. 23 doesn’t melt as easy and it’s harder to get a good mushroom. Although 23 is stronger I’d still use 24. Also try not to set it on fire. Try to get a clear mushroom and not a black glob.
For now don’t worry about where your broadhead is hitting in relation to the field points. I wouldn’t even shoot a broadhead while trying to group my fletched and bare shaft with FP’s. It would get to my head to much and that’s not what you want while tuning your bow. 😣
What this WHOLE...
I’m thinking and here is what I have come up with.
if you’re confident that all your timing is spot on then here is what I would check.
1) since your limbs are maxed out make sure the limb bolts are both evenly tight. Back each one out 1/4 of a turn, then retighten.
2) what rest are you...
I agree with Mighty Mouse. I do paper tune both my fletched and bare shaft arrows. Then shoot both at 20 yards to see where they are grouping in relation to eachother. Then it’s all about micro adjusting to bring them together. Also as MM said I don’t worry about replacing the weight on the back...