Mine ran long 3/4 on the ATA off the shelf. Also after market strings resulted in the same measurement. My cables were totally out of the dots as well. I had to send my cables back to get a new set made.
Yeah that was me, I stated it wrong. You want to pull the cam in the direction of the tear. So left broadhead equals right tear, so lean cam to the right to realign power stroke. My bad.
You don’t need to bare shaft tune, or re-fletch your arrows. Just move your rest to the left until the FP and broadhead hit together. Then move your sight to accommodate for the point of impact change. If you’re unable to close them with a little rest movement, then put twists into the left...
It’s just what he does. I know in the past he’s taken follow up shots on elk over 90. So in that situation it makes sense, especially if he has to take on something at that distance at an angle.
Well if you want more confusion Dudley uses the Mechs for close range work and the fixed for longer shots. He figures your getting the most KE at close range, and the lower energy longer shots benefit from a blade that doesn't need to deploy.
Fascinating Bill, I hope in the future you will do some micro diameter arrow tests. Really curious to see how the data would stack up against Firenocks claims. Dorge cautions against high profile vanes on micros due to increased oscillation. So it would be curious to see how your vane does on an...
Because it’s not true. Either it is, or isn’t durable. These threads that have extreme opinions on either side are obviously filled with a lot of subjectivity. You won’t ever get such a varied response on the RIP. The FMJ crowd is the same way. It’s a great arrow for its intended purpose. Yet...
Even Gillingham says this is not a durable shaft. I would take his word over anyone else’s. Especially since this is a Goldtip shaft. I don’t know why people have to insist that the shaft does something it obviously does not just because they shoot it.
I’m having exact same issue with SS34. Through the Berger I get horrible rest contact with the riser. This was with 2 different Hamskea’s, and an AAE. Had a nock low tear that was almost impossible to get rid of. Only fix was like the OP. Move the nocking point way up. Haven’t measured it but...
Only real difference between IW, and Day 6 is one of them will rust and one will not. So depends on the type of environment that you hunt in. If I lived in Oregon, or Washington I would not go with a tool steel.
Haven’t even measured it, feels perfect where it is now. When I moved I got rid of my bow shop so I don’t have a board at the moment. Brace is basically correct, ATA, and poundage are really close as well so I think it should be fine.