This is what I did. I bought a stainless T3x in 300wsm for $800, then shipped it to Thunderbeast to have them chop the barrel to 20" and install their facemount brake for my Ultra 7. $120 for the service, $40 insured shipping each way. Shoots factory ammo right at 1moa all day and the price was...
Sorry I'm a little late to this conversation, but I have a Tikka T3x in 300wsm with stock barrel chopped to 20" and sporting a Thunderbeast Ultra 7. I'm still breaking in the barrel (only about 20 rounds in so far), but it's averaging 2,910 fps with Norma Bondstrikes and shooting 1 MOA. I would...
Yes. My wife had this tag two years ago and we spoke with the biologist quite a bit on this subject. There are a good number of mature 3x3 and 3x4s in the unit that most hunters don't want to use their tag of a lifetime on, so they came up with the new 270-51 tag.
I went with option #1 a few months ago, but with a 300 WSM. You are right on with the price. $120 for the barrel chop and facemount, and door to door with insured shipping it was right at $200. Including the cost of the rifle, I was all in for about $1,000. I only have about 25 rounds through it...
I started with a standard style kid cart that I picked up at a garage sale. It worked fine for packing in, but it fell apart once loaded with camp and elk quarters on the way back. I now have the trailer in the link below. It is heavy duty and has handled abuse much better. The down side is that...
60 is my farthest pin, and that would be my limit in perfect conditions. I'm much more comfortable at 50 yards and in. My longest shot on an elk to date has been 40 yards.
Sounds good, thanks for the advice.
Well that's frustrating that the 3 Rivers calculator doesn't account for a fixed crawl. I was shooting for a 10 grains per pound finished arrow (500gr) that would tune right with my setup, and was hoping I would be one-and done with what I ordered.
Man, I...
I'm likely pulling 50# at my draw length. 500 spine arrows, 125gr heads and 74 grain accutough steel inserts.
I'm not sure how deep my grip is supposed to be on the string. I'm using a glove rather than a tab, if that makes a different with my grip. I'm still learning and getting comfortable...
I shoot left-handed, and it looks like the feathers are left helical. Does that make a difference?
The rest is a Cartel stick-on. Now that I'm looking at it, the plastic on the side of the rest is getting worn down by the arrow as well. Is that another sign of the spine being too stiff?
Good call on the grouping. I'm getting better but still not quite the grapefruit at 20 yards.
My setup is a lefty Samick Discovery ILF, 55# at 28". My draw length is 26", so I should be pulling around 50#. Gold Tip Traditional Classic 500's cut to 28" with 5" feathers. 74gr insert with 125gr head.
Rookie mistake. I haven't checked my tune by bareshafting yet. I ordered six fletched arrows based on 3 Rivers' dynamic spine calculator when I bought my bow, and that's all I have at this point. So I currently don't have an un-fletched arrow to test. Maybe I'll strip the feathers off the arrow...
Have any of you experienced feather fletching damage when shooting off an elevated rest? I'm shooting cock feather pointed out, and the bottom feather is getting frayed from contact with the rest. How do I correct this? My current setup is a Cartel stick-on rest, nock point 1/2" high, 3-fingers...
Have you had any patients complain about jaw pain or misalignment? I asked my dentist about these type of devices as a simpler alternative to a CPAP, and he steered my away based on prior negative experiences.