So to get this thread back on topic since it seems to have gathered some unnecessary fluff…
I took the following advice:
Chamfered and deburred the necks, and squished the 150gn ELD-X into the new unsized starline brass. The result was a neck diameter of 0.3110”…subtracting .003” results...
This is exactly the stage I am in; trying to consume and understand a ton of information. In hindsight I should have bought a regular (non bushing) FL die to start as I did not realize the added complication a bushing die would introduce.
I do appreciate everyone’s input and follow ups.
Just got the bushings in Monday .306, .307, .308 and only got to play with setting my die up for about an hour. Hopefully will have time next week to get a real update to post.
What's the fill type/weight? I've just started playing with my first "real" bag from armageddon gear and already noticing how much it improves my shooting. I filled mine with a probably 65/35 mix of git-lite/sand and it's probably 80-85% full.
Thanks for the clarification on nitride being a treatment. I admittedly am ok with the $50 for a purely cosmetic modification to my bolt.
My question remains…are there any “performance” benefits to nitride over leaving the raw stainless
Looking at sending off my tikka t3x lite stainless bolt off for fluting at LRI. Is there any reason to have them apply a coating afterwards? Either nitride or cerakote?
If nitride will improve performance/durability I’d be happy but if it’s purely cosmetic I’m happy leaving it “raw” stainless
Two purposes:
1. I saddle hunt and 50/50 leave the bino harness on. I use the carabiner to hang the harness on my strap
2. It’s a fully climbing rated carabiner so it’s just a good back up to have for when you’re in and out of trees. Can be part of a emergency decent system or help prevent...
So spoke with Hunter at Starline and he confirmed that ball mics are necessary and that I should chamfer the necks prior to measuring.
Got some ball mics and chamfered a random selection of 12 pieces of brass and averaged 0.0137” neck wall thickness. So 3-4 thou thinner than calipers…. The...
This is what I’m planning to do, was measuring just to have a starting place as I don’t want to buy the full range of suggested 7mm-08 bushings (.304-.312).
Marsupial Enclosed with range finder pouch and large zip pouch. Venandi custom holster on the back and blue force gear TQ holder.
Athlon Midas G2 10x42
Bushel Broadhead RF
Glock 19
Esee Izula II
Black diamond storm rechargeable headlamp
Wind check
Milkweed pouch
License/tags
Pen & sharpie
Zip...
I have a 3 and it still is going strong. Battery still lasts a week. My one recommendation is whatever you do get the Sapphire glass. My bezel is incredibly worn and there is not a single scratch on the glass. I've worn this thing all over ship yards for the last 6-7 years and the fact the...
so I’m measuring an average of 0.01675” neck wall thickness across a random pull of 12 cases from 100 pieces of new starline brass. Granted I’m using calipers and not a ball mic so that could be causing in accurate readings. My largest wall thickness was 0.017” and thinnest was 0.0155 most...
The fired brass measurements are just 2x wall thickness+bullet diameter. I didn’t measure actual fired neck diameter. I will measure that this evening and expect those dimensions to be very close.
I will also try chambering this afternoon. Signs are pointing towards needing to contact starline
In my chart for the hornady and Nosler once fired brass I am measuring the fired brass before resizing.
I added two measurements of new factory hornady and nosler ammunition just for reference at the end of the chart.
That was my concern regarding wall thickness being so high was that...
That explanation makes sense. I don't mind buying multiple bushings; trying to pick 1 or 2 to get started with. It seems starline brass has pretty thick wall thickness when new which is what's really driving my concerns as it seems the final dimensions will be larger than SAAMI based on a .003...